fastrt

iTrader: (48)

I done heads, cam, and rod bolts saturday on my 06' silverado. I have a power bond underdrive crank pulley that i had trouble getting it on the last cam swap. It came off ok, but when I went to put it on, even after cleaning it up with emory cloth, it would go on about a half inch like it did last time. I have an ARP long crank bolt, so I thought I would use it to pull it on just like the last time. WELL, it puled out the threads on the crank! Long story short, I put the stock pulley back on cause it was bigger internal where it goes on the crank than the power bond, and I could hammer it on with a 4lb sledge and a block of wood till the bolt would bite. I only have about 1-1.5" of threads left to hold in the bolt, and I got it as tight as I could by hand.

How do I go about Fixing this? without replacing the crank.
thanks for any help!

conan

iTrader: (5)

I had a friend wreck my crank threads with a puller when I wasn't watching him. I had to pull the moter out and tare it down to the crank. My grandfather owned a machine shop all my life and kept one mill and lathe when he sold his business. He was able to drill and tap new threads in his lathe for me. He taped it out to 3/4-16 threads per inch. I now use a grade 8 bolt with a washer he sweated on and ballenced for me. For future installs put your pully in the oven @ 250 deg for a half hour or so and it will slide on the crank much easier. Beating on the crank with a hammer is not good for the thrust bearings.

fastrt

iTrader: (48)

I think i will try and use my resources to find a way to do the same, but in the truck. i am going to brake hone the pulley, and heat it up in an oven. I was also wondering about heli coil that big?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Why is everything in the world suggested to get the damn pulley on EXCEPT using a correct pulley installer tool??? Yes I payed about $50 for mine and some would think that is expensive but there are ways to make your own from hardware from home depot for less then $10.

fastrt

iTrader: (48)

question: how far do the treads go into the crank? i guess I could make an installer tool like what is used to put a power steering pump pulley on. Find the thread pitch and size, and find all thread long enough to get to the good threads(depending on how far they go). Then pull it on with it. All the truck guys use the ARP bolt to pull it on.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

The threads go into the LS1 cranks pretty far. I bought Hawks ready made tool for like $55. Pricey yes but its a very nice piece and it works like a dream. Some make a homemade version with allthread and nuts and washers. If you search around you can find the threads illustrating how to make it in detail. Good luck

conan

iTrader: (5)

Sweating parts together is used in many, many applications in this world. I have never had a problem getting my pully back on this way. I can push the pully 3/4 - 1 inch on the crank (with my hand) before i have to pull it on with the bolt. I agree the puller install tool is nice but its not the "ONLY" correct way to get press fit parts togeter.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

To fix the threads in your crank snout just make a bolt a thread chaser. You can do this by taking a stock bolt and grooving it just like a tap or thread chaser. Then grease the bolt so that it cuts easier and captures the shavings it cleans up. I have repaired/cut quite a few bolt holes with this method. I haven't done it to a crank but it should work.

I would heat the balancer as suggested and put a light amount of spray lube on the crank snout to help everything slide together, it would be best to make or buy an installer also as suggested.

Good luck.

fastrt

iTrader: (48)

good info, thanks guys. I found a already made m16x2 balancer installer tool on ebay a guy is making, and a mod on preformance trucks is going to lend me his m16x2 tap to try and clean up the threads. i also found heli coil in that size if this does not fix my problem!