98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

In the middle of a LT swap on my 02 WS6. Doing poly motor mounts and trans mount. I know what a headache the poly motor mounts are for people to install so I wanted to pass this along as *good info*. I remember reading about another guy doing this a while back and after about the first 10 minutes of fighting with the passenger side bolt, I decided to give it a try...

Like most, the drivers side slipped right in, no pounding on it or anything. Just literally fell into place. This left the passengers side pretty well fucked. About 1/4" off, so not even close. I did the big *** pry bar thing and tried a couple other things that didn't work and then, like I said, remembered another guy using the spare tire jack against the frame rail on the passengers side. Holy crap, it worked like a charm. Hardly had to put any pressure on it and it lined the hole right up. 10 minutes later I was torquing both nuts to 70 lb/ft and throwing the LT's in.

Just wanted to pass this on for anyone about to embark on installing new mounts. It makes the job absolute cake!

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

What makes it even more cake is just unbolting the pedestals. But thats a good trick too. Some of use don't have that jack anymore. I used mine on my roommates car and it folded over

*02WS6TURK*

iTrader: (13)

I'm curious to know if you feel a difference with the Polly mounts being your stock mounts only had 15k on them and were probably in good shape. I've been debating on doing Polly mounts being mine only have 27k on them.

Snake_Skinner

iTrader: (12)

^ Your car might only have 27k miles on it but them poly mounts have been under the stress of that engine going on 8 yrs, im sure there in worst shape than you think. To the OP thx you just gave me the motivation i need to finally tackle my LT install. Didnt mind installing LT's just didnt want to do the damn mounts.

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Yeah, I was going to do this but the way it was situated unbolting the pedestals would not have helped me at all. Plus, this way was just simpler. Put the jack in there, give it a turn or so and boom, everything lines up perfectly. Couldn't ask for anything easier.

And yeah, lol, they aren't the most durable or capable jacks when used for what they're intended...

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

I got the prothane kit. It feels like stock to me, but better because my engine no longer attempts barrel rolls in between my fenders.

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Mileage doesn't really have anything to do with it. The poly mounts are just a stiffer mount. You could compare them both brand new and the poly's would still yield benefits.

Personally, I did it because I didn't feel like having to deal with Y-Pipe banging... which would have led to me pulling the headers, just to install the poly's...

Might as well just do it while you have everything out of there.

*02WS6TURK*

iTrader: (13)

looks as if I will be doing some soon...

MTBSully

iTrader: (7)

sounds like a good trick and i just ordered my poly mounts so i need to do this very soon as well. Do you have any pictures of where you are supposed to be jacking under the frame rail? How does this help the bolts to line up? i guess i'm just not really understanding it

KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

Poly engine mounts are awesome. people somehow get concerned that they're going to make the car ride rough but I swear I can't even tell that anything changed in the feel. My exhaust no longer bangs the floor though.

fieroguru

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the jack tip!

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

+100 on removing the pedestals.........so easy a caveman could do it

BOA279

iTrader: (1)

Im actually taking a break from this right now...Just finished the drivers side mount and about to tackle the passenger side. Good tips

BOA279

iTrader: (1)

Just finished my prothane motor mounts yesterday. +10,000 on the scissor jack. I changed the driver side first and it was fairly easy..just loosened the big passenger side mount bolt so the engine could pivot easily while I pried the driver side around. No problem...the passenger side was off more than a quarter of an inch when the new mount went in and thankfully I just read this post before going for it. With one jack underneath I could move the mount up and down and the scissor jack between the metal mount and frame rail I could shift it sideways. Took about 10 minutes to line it up and easily slide the bolt through! I would never even think about doing this again without the scissor jack. Id go and buy one before trying something else

BOA279

iTrader: (1)

I just did mine and used the jack method. With the passenger header out the scissor jack goes sideways in the engine bay. The bottom of the jack sits just above the A/C lines that run along the frame rail and the top of the jack sits (at least I did it) on the metal clam shell of the mount. When cranked, the jack pushes the engine sideways toward the drivers side lining the holes up. Hope that helps

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Natural rubber breaks down over time, that includes tires, hoses, gaskets ect. So even if the motor has never been started, after 10 years, the rubber motor mounts are on their last leg. I wouldn't trust them to hold the torque of a 4-cylinder much less a v-8 putting out over 350 ft/lbs at the flywheel.

MTBSully

iTrader: (7)

if my headers ever come in i should be doing this very soon. Will be updating regularly

KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

I remember using a floorjack with a rag on it under the oilpan. It doesn't take much pressure on the bottom of the engine to make it move a half inch or so. Plus, the floor jack was on wheels so I was able to try shifting it around. That helped a LOT in trying to line everything up.

Busy Mopper

iTrader: (4)

Im gonna do this as well!