Installed headers, now the car is driving badly
12-04-2010, 05:36 PM
#1
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Installed headers, now the car is driving badly I installed a set of race style headers on my 2002 Z06 today.
Here's the story...During the install I broke one of the spark plug wires so I bought a new set. I only used one of the wires from the new set because they are longer than OEM and were leaning on the LTs. So, right now my car has 7 OEM plug wires and one OEM replacement from Advanced Auto Parts.
The system...the headers and x-pipe were bolted together will sleeves/collars/whatever they're called. These things definitely leave gaps for exhaust leaks.
Dipstick...I was a little lost when reinstalling the dipstick tube. I have it bolted to the same place the OEM dipstick tube was installed. I wasn't quite sure where the dipstick should rest after going through the tube, though. My car's dipstick is laying in what looks like (hard to see) a hole about the diameter of a quarter in the oil pan. Is this the correct placement of the tube/stick? I ask because I spilled ZERO oil during the install yet my oil warning light is showing on the HUD. At idle my oil pressure reads 39 psi.
On to the drive...When I first started the car up I was feeling great. After driving it for about 3 seconds I was feeling like ****. Whenever I accelerated or shifted I would get backfires. The exhaust sounded horrible when it wasn't backfiring...something I'm guessing is attributed to exhaust leaks. There is also so shimmering/shaking while driving, almost like the car wants to stall out.
I checked the plugs/wires and all were good. I'm wondering if this could be caused by using mix-matched wires. I'm also wondering if the backfiring and disgusting noise could be caused by leaks. And what's up with the oil warning light?
FYI, the car hasn't been tuned yet, though I doubt a tune will change these things anyway.
Please chime in, experts.
Here's the story...During the install I broke one of the spark plug wires so I bought a new set. I only used one of the wires from the new set because they are longer than OEM and were leaning on the LTs. So, right now my car has 7 OEM plug wires and one OEM replacement from Advanced Auto Parts.
The system...the headers and x-pipe were bolted together will sleeves/collars/whatever they're called. These things definitely leave gaps for exhaust leaks.
Dipstick...I was a little lost when reinstalling the dipstick tube. I have it bolted to the same place the OEM dipstick tube was installed. I wasn't quite sure where the dipstick should rest after going through the tube, though. My car's dipstick is laying in what looks like (hard to see) a hole about the diameter of a quarter in the oil pan. Is this the correct placement of the tube/stick? I ask because I spilled ZERO oil during the install yet my oil warning light is showing on the HUD. At idle my oil pressure reads 39 psi.
On to the drive...When I first started the car up I was feeling great. After driving it for about 3 seconds I was feeling like ****. Whenever I accelerated or shifted I would get backfires. The exhaust sounded horrible when it wasn't backfiring...something I'm guessing is attributed to exhaust leaks. There is also so shimmering/shaking while driving, almost like the car wants to stall out.
I checked the plugs/wires and all were good. I'm wondering if this could be caused by using mix-matched wires. I'm also wondering if the backfiring and disgusting noise could be caused by leaks. And what's up with the oil warning light?
FYI, the car hasn't been tuned yet, though I doubt a tune will change these things anyway.
Please chime in, experts.
Last edited by Kamauxx; 12-04-2010 at 05:43 PM.
12-04-2010, 06:57 PM
#2
OK,
-first I really doubt that the one plug wire is causing any problems due to a different resistance value,, however YOU definately need to check all wires and make sure that they have (clicked both on the plugs and in the coil packs)
-The dipstick tube goes in a hole that is slightly larger than the tube itself, I dont know what hole you are referring to as being as big as a quarter, but its not the right one.
-the oil warning light may be coming from the oil level sensor thats in the side of the pan, its a big sensor on the PS of the pan and has a clip that goes into it, make sure you didnt break the sensor or wiring. 39PSI at idle is great
-The backfiring and sounding like crap, and running like crap, and engine wanting to stall could all most definately be caused by exhaust leak. Did you re-use the GM steel multilayer exhaust manifold gaskets, (they are really the best and are re-usable) Did you torque them to spec, its really a low torque value. Easy way to find the leaks are to start the engine and before it gets too hot put your hands around where you think a leak may be, Or I have even used a smoking paper towel.. You will feel or see the exhaust pressure coming out. Are you sure your O2 sensors are plugged back in?
-first I really doubt that the one plug wire is causing any problems due to a different resistance value,, however YOU definately need to check all wires and make sure that they have (clicked both on the plugs and in the coil packs)
-The dipstick tube goes in a hole that is slightly larger than the tube itself, I dont know what hole you are referring to as being as big as a quarter, but its not the right one.
-the oil warning light may be coming from the oil level sensor thats in the side of the pan, its a big sensor on the PS of the pan and has a clip that goes into it, make sure you didnt break the sensor or wiring. 39PSI at idle is great
-The backfiring and sounding like crap, and running like crap, and engine wanting to stall could all most definately be caused by exhaust leak. Did you re-use the GM steel multilayer exhaust manifold gaskets, (they are really the best and are re-usable) Did you torque them to spec, its really a low torque value. Easy way to find the leaks are to start the engine and before it gets too hot put your hands around where you think a leak may be, Or I have even used a smoking paper towel.. You will feel or see the exhaust pressure coming out. Are you sure your O2 sensors are plugged back in?
12-05-2010, 06:42 AM
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OK,
-first I really doubt that the one plug wire is causing any problems due to a different resistance value,, however YOU definately need to check all wires and make sure that they have (clicked both on the plugs and in the coil packs)
-The dipstick tube goes in a hole that is slightly larger than the tube itself, I dont know what hole you are referring to as being as big as a quarter, but its not the right one.
-the oil warning light may be coming from the oil level sensor thats in the side of the pan, its a big sensor on the PS of the pan and has a clip that goes into it, make sure you didnt break the sensor or wiring. 39PSI at idle is great
-The backfiring and sounding like crap, and running like crap, and engine wanting to stall could all most definately be caused by exhaust leak. Did you re-use the GM steel multilayer exhaust manifold gaskets, (they are really the best and are re-usable) Did you torque them to spec, its really a low torque value. Easy way to find the leaks are to start the engine and before it gets too hot put your hands around where you think a leak may be, Or I have even used a smoking paper towel.. You will feel or see the exhaust pressure coming out. Are you sure your O2 sensors are plugged back in?
-first I really doubt that the one plug wire is causing any problems due to a different resistance value,, however YOU definately need to check all wires and make sure that they have (clicked both on the plugs and in the coil packs)
-The dipstick tube goes in a hole that is slightly larger than the tube itself, I dont know what hole you are referring to as being as big as a quarter, but its not the right one.
-the oil warning light may be coming from the oil level sensor thats in the side of the pan, its a big sensor on the PS of the pan and has a clip that goes into it, make sure you didnt break the sensor or wiring. 39PSI at idle is great
-The backfiring and sounding like crap, and running like crap, and engine wanting to stall could all most definately be caused by exhaust leak. Did you re-use the GM steel multilayer exhaust manifold gaskets, (they are really the best and are re-usable) Did you torque them to spec, its really a low torque value. Easy way to find the leaks are to start the engine and before it gets too hot put your hands around where you think a leak may be, Or I have even used a smoking paper towel.. You will feel or see the exhaust pressure coming out. Are you sure your O2 sensors are plugged back in?
To clarify the stalling feel, it doesn't feel like the engine wants to die, more like the car wants to jump off the wheels. It's more of a jerking than a stalling, I guess.
I did reuse the GM gaskets. I didn't however, torque them to spec. Should be 18 lbs right? I just used my hand gauge to spec em down. I'm going to do the smoke check when the garage warms up a bit, sounds like a great idea.
The 02 sensors are definitely plugged in and installed on the correct sides.
Thank you.
12-05-2010, 07:20 AM
#4
Change out the spark plugs. You may have possibly hit them enough to crack the ceramic insulated part of the plug and upon slight > heavy accel, the spark is grounding out to whatever it can close by on the plugs.
Past a certain point of the TPS % , the O2 sensors are not utilized as the ECM goes into Power Enrichment mode. So if it's cutting out with the pedal down a lot, it's not the O2 sensors.
Past a certain point of the TPS % , the O2 sensors are not utilized as the ECM goes into Power Enrichment mode. So if it's cutting out with the pedal down a lot, it's not the O2 sensors.
12-05-2010, 07:28 AM
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Damn, I was hoping I wouldn't have to change the spark plugs. Looking back on it I wish I had done that originally.
Do I have to remove the headers to get to the plugs or can they be reached simply by removing the plug wires?
Also, what do I use to take them out? Never did a plug change before. Actually, I'll try to find a write up.
Thanks.
Do I have to remove the headers to get to the plugs or can they be reached simply by removing the plug wires?
Also, what do I use to take them out? Never did a plug change before. Actually, I'll try to find a write up.
Thanks.
12-05-2010, 07:39 AM
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^ You don't have to take the headers out to do the plugs. It MAY be easier just to take the coil packs off. (Vette has a little more room than the F-Bodys)
Did you let it idle for a while after installing the headers? I can't think of anything for this. But as far as exhaust leaks, a pulsing noise is a primary leak up top near the heads and a constant hissing is a collector leak.
I also had plug issues on my last car and it ran like ***! What plugs are you running? Stick with AC or NGK's. Bosch are junk.
Did you let it idle for a while after installing the headers? I can't think of anything for this. But as far as exhaust leaks, a pulsing noise is a primary leak up top near the heads and a constant hissing is a collector leak.
I also had plug issues on my last car and it ran like ***! What plugs are you running? Stick with AC or NGK's. Bosch are junk.
Last edited by bayer-z28; 12-05-2010 at 07:49 AM.
12-05-2010, 07:46 AM
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^ You don't have to take the headers out to do the plugs. It MAY be easier just to take the coil packs off. (Vette has a little more room than the F-Bodys)
Did you let it idle for a while after installing the headers? I can't think of anything for this. But as far as exhaust leaks, a pulsing noise is a primary leak up top near the heads and a constant hissing is a collector leak.
Did you let it idle for a while after installing the headers? I can't think of anything for this. But as far as exhaust leaks, a pulsing noise is a primary leak up top near the heads and a constant hissing is a collector leak.
I took it out and drove it twice. Both times for less than 5 minutes.
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12-05-2010, 07:50 AM
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^ I agree.. 
Had a guy on the local board complaining about a ticking noise that he couldn't find.. All of us were ready to have the poor guy tear the motor apart to replace the lifters.. You know what it was?? Loose plug wire... -Facepalm.
Had a guy on the local board complaining about a ticking noise that he couldn't find.. All of us were ready to have the poor guy tear the motor apart to replace the lifters.. You know what it was?? Loose plug wire... -Facepalm. 
12-05-2010, 08:40 AM
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Actually I used 3 different write ups, but they don't help much with troubleshooting.
Here's a question, and I probably should have said this before but I didn't realize it was still active. My headers don't have provisions for A.I.R. Right now the driver/passenger side tubes are still in the engine bay. The driver's side tube is blowing air, and I guess the passenger side is sucking air. Could this be a cause of these problems?
I asked this question before on another forum and they told me that the hoses no longer matter since my headers have block off plates. But now I'm wondering if the air blowing out of that hose could be making things go haywire.
Here's a question, and I probably should have said this before but I didn't realize it was still active. My headers don't have provisions for A.I.R. Right now the driver/passenger side tubes are still in the engine bay. The driver's side tube is blowing air, and I guess the passenger side is sucking air. Could this be a cause of these problems?
I asked this question before on another forum and they told me that the hoses no longer matter since my headers have block off plates. But now I'm wondering if the air blowing out of that hose could be making things go haywire.
12-05-2010, 11:16 AM
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The upper circled hole in this pic is where my dipstick is installed. I noticed another hole and circled it. Is the bottom hole where the dipstick is SUPPOSED to be?
12-05-2010, 11:39 AM
#13
i believe i had the same jerking motion after my long tube setup, but mine was due to a broken coolant sensor on the drivers side in front of the first header pipe. it is a very common break and my car ran like ****. when i changed it i was low on radiator fluid so the car would surge and freak out. but i believe LS1's use the coolant sensor to help engine management of going from open loop to closed loop. if it doesn't know where to go it does get pissy
12-05-2010, 05:36 PM
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The problem was a destroyed spark plug.
The plug has been replaced, I found the dipstick tube's hole in the oil pan, and everything is working better than before.
Thank you to all who helped.
The plug has been replaced, I found the dipstick tube's hole in the oil pan, and everything is working better than before.
Thank you to all who helped.
