Killed my knock sensors, time to replace. A few questions
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Killed my knock sensors, time to replace. A few questions
I killed one of my knock sensors after washing my engine with the garden hose.
Knock sensor part number is 10456603/2133521? I'll probably get ACDelco just so there isn't any problems.
I will get a new wiring harness also, do you have to splice the new one in? I'd rather not splice them if i can spend more and get the complete harness. What is the part number?
Finally, do i need to get a new intake manifold gasket(s)?
Anything else i should consider? I think i have the fuel line disconnect tool already. I'll need to buy clothespins or something to hold up the back bolts and RTV sealant.
Knock sensor part number is 10456603/2133521? I'll probably get ACDelco just so there isn't any problems.
I will get a new wiring harness also, do you have to splice the new one in? I'd rather not splice them if i can spend more and get the complete harness. What is the part number?
Finally, do i need to get a new intake manifold gasket(s)?
Anything else i should consider? I think i have the fuel line disconnect tool already. I'll need to buy clothespins or something to hold up the back bolts and RTV sealant.
Last edited by elwood2; 02-21-2011 at 03:01 PM.
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I just drove 20mins to work and SES light never came on. What are the odds that the water dried up and there's nothing wrong with the sensor? The code was "background noise low/circuit low on bank B". Maybe being full of water was causing a muffling effect and now that it's dry it can "hear" again?
Can you get to the harness without taking off the intake manifold to measure the voltage?
Can you get to the harness without taking off the intake manifold to measure the voltage?
Last edited by elwood2; 02-21-2011 at 06:42 PM.
#7
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Doubtful you could even reach the connector back there. It's clipped to bracket that's bolted on the back of the intake on the driver's side. You could find out which wires going into the PCM connectors are for the knock sensors, and then stick a pin in the wire and connect a multimeter that way, I've done that before. I think you're right about the water muffling.
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Me and my dad started on changing the knock sensors today. We changed some of the PCV line. I definitely had a massive vacuum leak.
We started around 8:30 this morning and about 7 tonight we had the intake in place and had the OPSU, one small vacuum line, then injectors and fuel line left to plug in. My dad moved the small vacuum line to try and wedge his arm in the back for the hundredth time to try and plug in the OPSU and the vacuum line snapped.
My dad said this is the last time he helps me work on my engine and i can't blame him. He said anyone that says they can take an intake on and reassemble it in an hour or two must have women hands/arms.
If i ever need to change something that's not on the front or on the side close to the front, it's going in the shop!
We started around 8:30 this morning and about 7 tonight we had the intake in place and had the OPSU, one small vacuum line, then injectors and fuel line left to plug in. My dad moved the small vacuum line to try and wedge his arm in the back for the hundredth time to try and plug in the OPSU and the vacuum line snapped.
My dad said this is the last time he helps me work on my engine and i can't blame him. He said anyone that says they can take an intake on and reassemble it in an hour or two must have women hands/arms.
If i ever need to change something that's not on the front or on the side close to the front, it's going in the shop!
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Plug in the OPSU before installing the intake, and extend the 1/2" brake hose with some extra hose so it can just be run up and over everything else. Also for that vacuum line, you can get some rubber fuel line, I think it's 3/16, plug the vac line into that and then into the connector on back of intake, so you can connect them while the intake is still far forward with plenty of space.
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i have the same issue with my rear knock sensor but i know water is in which is why it's on and stay on. i have my new harness and now just need to order my knock sensors and i'll be good to go . . . . . btw just because he has a 2002 doesn't mean he has a LS6 block. how was it getting the suction cup off to unplug the wires from the knock sensors? i'm just thinking of cutting mine since i have a new harness anyway
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i have the same issue with my rear knock sensor but i know water is in which is why it's on and stay on. i have my new harness and now just need to order my knock sensors and i'll be good to go . . . . . btw just because he has a 2002 doesn't mean he has a LS6 block. how was it getting the suction cup off to unplug the wires from the knock sensors? i'm just thinking of cutting mine since i have a new harness anyway
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i have the same issue with my rear knock sensor but i know water is in which is why it's on and stay on. i have my new harness and now just need to order my knock sensors and i'll be good to go . . . . . btw just because he has a 2002 doesn't mean he has a LS6 block. how was it getting the suction cup off to unplug the wires from the knock sensors? i'm just thinking of cutting mine since i have a new harness anyway
Why'd you have to replace your water pump and hoses twice?
#18
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my back one is loose but wont come up more than 1 1/2 inches the front one is sealed good. i should have worded it right lol when i replaced the engine last year i had to buy a new water pump, well since i put it in i've noticed small seepage of coolant from the passenger side so i finally decided to take off the water pump cause i didn't think it was the hoses. i replaced the gaskets on the back (which one was slightly bent anyway) and when i put the hoses back on one of them was loose and it made me worry that it would leak . . . sure enough it did! lol $134 later my hose is brand new and it helps replacing that stuff when you have no a/c btw the hoses had 176K on them so this was inevitable.