Homemade Electric Cutout, Ghetto or Not?
02-27-2011, 07:23 PM
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Homemade Electric Cutout, Ghetto or Not? I know I'm risking getting flamed for this one, but here goes.......
I've been pricing QTP, DMH, and all the other ones and people seem to want an arm and a leg for them. I can pick up a brand new one from Summit Racing for around $130 shipped. I'm still very tempted to do this, but was curious of some opinions and thoughts.
I've been reading of all the problems with the e-cutouts and how the motors go out due to heat or being knocked off. After a Google search I found that some of the ricer guys take small throttle bodies and use hood latch cable or throttle cable to make a manual cutout. They're supposed to not leak if you JB weld up all the ports and make a flange to bolt it up to your pipe. I had the idea of doing one like this (of course with a REAL throttle body, 3"+), running a cable inside the car, and wiring up some type of servo or actuator inside the car away from the heat. Seems that this would solve the problem of burning out motors as frequent.
Also, another, more of a wiring nightmare idea, is using a drive by wire throttle body. I know about the tps and voltage percent, but there's gotta be a motor somewhere in there that takes a positive and negative wire.
I can do either of these options for well under $40, just curious if it'll look too ghetto and I'll be too embarrassed to put my car on a lift. It'll be done right (well, as much as possible), wires hidden, and have a turndown. Even though I am from the South I promise no duct tape!
I'll probably just come off the cash and buy a real one anyway, just curious of thoughts, good or bad. All opinions welcome!
I've been pricing QTP, DMH, and all the other ones and people seem to want an arm and a leg for them. I can pick up a brand new one from Summit Racing for around $130 shipped. I'm still very tempted to do this, but was curious of some opinions and thoughts.
I've been reading of all the problems with the e-cutouts and how the motors go out due to heat or being knocked off. After a Google search I found that some of the ricer guys take small throttle bodies and use hood latch cable or throttle cable to make a manual cutout. They're supposed to not leak if you JB weld up all the ports and make a flange to bolt it up to your pipe. I had the idea of doing one like this (of course with a REAL throttle body, 3"+), running a cable inside the car, and wiring up some type of servo or actuator inside the car away from the heat. Seems that this would solve the problem of burning out motors as frequent.
Also, another, more of a wiring nightmare idea, is using a drive by wire throttle body. I know about the tps and voltage percent, but there's gotta be a motor somewhere in there that takes a positive and negative wire.
I can do either of these options for well under $40, just curious if it'll look too ghetto and I'll be too embarrassed to put my car on a lift. It'll be done right (well, as much as possible), wires hidden, and have a turndown. Even though I am from the South I promise no duct tape!
I'll probably just come off the cash and buy a real one anyway, just curious of thoughts, good or bad. All opinions welcome!
Last edited by ncsu602; 02-27-2011 at 07:53 PM.
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03-01-2011, 02:22 AM
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T-6 aluminum has a melting point of around 1090* F.. Your exhaust should not ever get that hot unless your running turbo.. even then, down-stream of that, where you would put a cutout, you would be hard pressed to see anywhere near those temps.
The pistons in your motor are aluminum, theres a reason for that.
03-01-2011, 09:37 AM
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That was kinda my thinking.....it should be far enough back toward the axle for the heat not to matter. Imagine how hot a car gets in 90+ degrees, especially with headers sitting in traffic. I wouldn't dare put a set right on the headers, but the back pipe shouldn't be that hot.
I just got a steal on a set of electrics so I won't be going that route. It's still VERY intriguing, especially if you could figure out the wiring on a drive by wire. I'm no electronics wiz, but that would be sweet. If anyone decides to persue this I'd love to know the outcome
I just got a steal on a set of electrics so I won't be going that route. It's still VERY intriguing, especially if you could figure out the wiring on a drive by wire. I'm no electronics wiz, but that would be sweet. If anyone decides to persue this I'd love to know the outcome
Last edited by ncsu602; 03-01-2011 at 10:07 AM.
03-01-2011, 09:44 AM
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Interesting idea, I think you would have a small leak tho that could prolly be heard. Hold a TB up to light and you can usually see a tiny bit of light around the blade. I would think with the exhaust pressure it would make somewhat of an exhuast leak. Way to think outside the box though. I don't think it would be to ghetto. Mr gasket makes a crappy manual cutout, I would think this would be nicer lol.
03-01-2011, 06:15 PM
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Do not mean to **** in your cheerios but I came from "ricer" land and my tb was 90 mm = 3.543307087inches... Fast is Fast no matter how many cylinders/cc's/liters it is.
Giving this lsx stuff a shot to have best of both worlds! Good luck on your cut out. You should try and score a q45 throttle body. They go for around 40-50$ used and like I said, its 3.5"s and flowed real well on my 4g63
Giving this lsx stuff a shot to have best of both worlds! Good luck on your cut out. You should try and score a q45 throttle body. They go for around 40-50$ used and like I said, its 3.5"s and flowed real well on my 4g63
03-01-2011, 07:18 PM
#13
Your exhaust ports in the head are aluminum.. You don't see the heads melting or deforming because they are made out of aluminum..
T-6 aluminum has a melting point of around 1090* F.. Your exhaust should not ever get that hot unless your running turbo.. even then, down-stream of that, where you would put a cutout, you would be hard pressed to see anywhere near those temps.
The pistons in your motor are aluminum, theres a reason for that.
T-6 aluminum has a melting point of around 1090* F.. Your exhaust should not ever get that hot unless your running turbo.. even then, down-stream of that, where you would put a cutout, you would be hard pressed to see anywhere near those temps.
The pistons in your motor are aluminum, theres a reason for that.
I was not talking about melting points.
Ok weld an aluminum TB to steel exhaust, or what clamp it on there? Build specific flanges to bolt it on?
I was just saying that because ive looked at doing the same thing before when i was 16. You think heat is a problem for purpose built cut-outs image what it would do to a motor meant to be on your intake.
Last edited by _Adrenaline_; 03-01-2011 at 07:27 PM.
03-01-2011, 07:44 PM
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Do not mean to **** in your cheerios but I came from "ricer" land and my tb was 90 mm = 3.543307087inches... Fast is Fast no matter how many cylinders/cc's/liters it is.
Giving this lsx stuff a shot to have best of both worlds! Good luck on your cut out. You should try and score a q45 throttle body. They go for around 40-50$ used and like I said, its 3.5"s and flowed real well on my 4g63
Giving this lsx stuff a shot to have best of both worlds! Good luck on your cut out. You should try and score a q45 throttle body. They go for around 40-50$ used and like I said, its 3.5"s and flowed real well on my 4g63
The one I saw that was the nicest looking was on a turbo del sol, using an rc servo and a mustang throttle body. I'm pretty sure the car was over 300hp, which in that small of a car is damn nasty. Ricer is a mentality, but that's another thread for another day, or the 20 million other threads discussing it.
03-02-2011, 07:14 PM
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Thought I'd post some pics for anyone that might like to try it. I also had the idea of using a door lock actuator and somehow slowing down the motion. Someone who has access to free parts at a junkyard should pull this off!
06-26-2011, 11:42 AM
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been thinking about this and just wanted to bump it back up. if you were to run a DBW throttle body on the intake and one on the exhaust, i was thinking you could extend a second set of wires to the exhaust TB and it would open at the same rate as the one on the intake. this seems like it would be pretty nice on a Turbo app. allowing you to basically have an open down pipe instantly at WOT when you were just idling with dual 2.5"s or whatever the rest of the exhaust system is.
downfall i see would be the life of that motor with the constant heat and exhaust pressures acting on it.
downfall i see would be the life of that motor with the constant heat and exhaust pressures acting on it.
06-26-2011, 01:59 PM
#17
I gotta call my dad on this one.
I remember him telling me back when he had his GTX, 440 Super Commando; I think a 69 or a 70, he told me something about ditching the hood pull mechanism's functionality, since he had a pin on hood, and had 2 manual cut-out's installed just off the headers.
Anyway, long story short, back in the early 70's, when people we racing stoplight to stoplight, cops included, all he had to do was reach for the hood latch puller, and it would open his cut-outs..... Now I have to find out what his cut-outs WERE. TB sounds like a neat idea though.
Thanks for the stroll down memory lane!!
I remember him telling me back when he had his GTX, 440 Super Commando; I think a 69 or a 70, he told me something about ditching the hood pull mechanism's functionality, since he had a pin on hood, and had 2 manual cut-out's installed just off the headers.
Anyway, long story short, back in the early 70's, when people we racing stoplight to stoplight, cops included, all he had to do was reach for the hood latch puller, and it would open his cut-outs..... Now I have to find out what his cut-outs WERE. TB sounds like a neat idea though.
Thanks for the stroll down memory lane!!
07-03-2011, 12:09 PM
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Well I was wondering what kinda motor I could use to run a cut out. Except I'm using a real cut out taken out of old pickups. You could probably find old cut outs at a junk yard. The one I'm using was air operated. I wanna put an electric motor to replace the small air chamber.