wssix99

iTrader: (5)

If I took the water pump off, could I get a tube in to the block and down low enough to pump the coolant out of the block? (Instead of removing the plugs can creating a greater mess all over the place.)

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

Drain the radiator, then start the engine up cold and keep the drain valve open on the radiator until you can tell you have emptied most of it out. The engine is simply not going to have to run long enough to get hot and the water pump is still going to be wet

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I had some nasty signs of corrosion and I also have a history of the typical PS Cooler leak and DexCool gelling. (before my last coolant "flush") So, it all needed to come out. The typical voodoo or magical "power flush" machines (which are neither powerful or actually completely flush) won't work. I wanted to get 100% of the garbage out and start with fresh stuff.

We had some unseasonably cool weather this weekend, so I just took things apart. This was probably good because my thermostat housing was also corroded more than is to my liking. (So, I changed that out.)

I had to take off the alternator, which gave me access to the driver's side block drain. (This, of course, requires some brackets, belts, and the air intake to come off...) I just barely got to the passenger side block drain with my tools, but if my socket was 1mm larger, I would have had to take the starter out.

Sure enough... it was a mess and I took a nice bath in coolant. The radiator held about a gallon of coolant, (leaving 1.5 gallons in the heater core and block) but lifting up the back of the car helped drain the heater core out and drain some of the block back in to the radiator.

jg rider

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/diy-coo...-flush-157898/

big hammer

Tannerite would work

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

The images from this thread are gone, so here's a picture of the other coolant plug on the passenger side:

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi Alch, yes there are Allen bolts that drain the block.

I have a product that is fit into this bolt, a Zink Rod.

This will increase engine/radiator life AND STOP Coolant System Voltage.

Lance

Tramminc

So if we remove the top radiator hose and unscrew the radiator drain plug, then put a shop vac hose on the hose and blow air pressure in the system. It should force all the water out of the motor exiting from the radiator drain hole.. But pushing air in the top hose may not get passed the thermostat to enter the motor.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Right, and air would take the path of least resistance and would not get everything out. The plugs + gravity do.

patSS/00

iTrader: (6)

Big pan under radiator drain, drain radiator, then floor jack to lift drivers side as high as possible, then lower, then floor jack under diff to lift back as high as possible then lower, then repeat drivers side. Each time wait for draining to stop after raising or lowering. No mess, and removes most of the coolant. Make sure inside temp dial is turned up to max hot before starting.

EDIT: For fbody, doubt it would work on a truck!

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

If you do all this, get the system dry, and then open up the engine block plugs; another gallon of coolant will still come out.

patSS/00

iTrader: (6)

I doubt it, at least not on mine. You've tried this?

RB04Av

It does on everybody else's. The block cannot drain through the WP holes because there's a half gallon or so of coolant in each bank that's below those holes.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

...Yes. The first time one does this, one gets a shower - and I got mine. It's very memorable - there's a lot of fluid in every LS.

As a side note; GM's method for this sucks. I have a Toyota truck that has really nice spigots on the sides of the block that make for a much cleaner collection of this.