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Old 02-28-2004, 05:57 PM   #1
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Default A/C compressor clutch question

The clutch on the a/c compressor on my 2000 Z28 has started to make a noise like the bearing is on its way out. It's only noisy when the clutch is disengaged. When I turn the air on and the clutch is energized, the noise goes away. When I shut the engine off today I tried turning the inside part of the clutch and to my surprise it turned (and made the same noise). I thought this would have been connected to the compressor's guts and therefore not turn freely

Is there any way to lubricate the clutch's bearings? If the clutch needs replacing, can the it be replaced with the compressor still bolted onto the engine?
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Old 02-28-2004, 06:39 PM   #2
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Sorry to hijack your thread GMBOYZ...

I think you'll need a new clutch though. My car started doing the same thing just before i put her down for winter. It makes a metal rattling noise, then as soon as i turn on the defogger, it's stops. Any one have ideas how expensive something like that is to fix.
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Old 02-28-2004, 08:38 PM   #3
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I can live with buying a new clutch, but the labour might be expensive if the refrigerant has to be sucked out and the compressor taken off. It doesn't look like there's much room down there if a puller is required.
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Old 02-28-2004, 09:39 PM   #4
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Well hate to give you bad new but you can try to replace the clutch , hub & pulley.
The problem is alot of times the compressor wave-plate drive shaft looses its endplay internally.
Then the hub which is hooked up to it drags on the pulley & you get the scrapping noise.
You can try to pull the hub & shim it to get the clutch clearance back or replace the entire assembly, but more often than not the compressors coming apart inside.
It's up to you how to procede, either replace the whole assembly or get a clutch kit.
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Old 02-29-2004, 03:02 AM   #5
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The dealer charges $1200 parts and labor to replace the compressor.
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Old 02-29-2004, 10:49 AM   #6
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Well another option is to buy a used compressor & have it installed.
I see them here all the time, someone is always lightening their car.
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Old 02-29-2004, 04:06 PM   #7
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If I go the used/re-man route, will I need just the compressor, or the compressor and the clutch. Are the two difficult to separate and put back together (i.e. are they pressed together)?
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Old 07-20-2006, 07:41 AM   #8
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I'm having the same exact problen, has anybody ever replaced the clutch, did you have to remove the compressor? Did it fix the problem? thanks. Scott
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Old 07-20-2006, 07:58 AM   #9
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I would just try to reclearance the cltch plate. You have to have a hub puller to do it. Then you reset the clearance on the hub to pulley w/ shims. It works often no problem. You can do it from underneath, but the special tool is needed.
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Old 07-20-2006, 08:45 AM   #10
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A new/reman compressor comes with a clutch. My clutch went out earlier this summer and I could not find a clutch anywhere. I ended up replacing the whole thing with another reman, but now I have a spare good compressor for when this one takes a dump, and I can just swap the clutches.
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Old 07-20-2006, 08:53 AM   #11
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just talked to my GM tech friend. He said with a special tool we could back the clutch out and it shouldn't make the noise any more...hopefully. He said I shouldn't need a new clutch. Sounds like the process wrencher is talking about
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Old 04-03-2008, 10:55 PM   #12
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this sounds like what I need to do. anybody have a link to pics and or instructions on repairing a squeaking ac clutch without removing the compressor?
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Old 04-03-2008, 10:56 PM   #13
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I have a 2/3 jaw puller, I'm hoping that will do it. Someone confirm?
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Old 03-02-2009, 12:23 AM   #14
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Bringing this one back from the dead.

I have the same issue going on and its annoying. Even a new compressor from autozone is $300 so I have been thinking of removing the A/C off the car and this pretty much confirms what I am going to do. Is there anyway to just remove the compressor and put an idler pulley down there or reroute the belt to just avoid the compressor. How do people do this when they remove the A/C. I would image that compressor is heavy so I am sure people remove it.

EDIT:
Wow, forget I even asked anything. I completely spaced that the A/C system is a different belt from the normal serpentine belt. I will just remove the belt.
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Old 03-02-2009, 12:38 AM   #15
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No need for an idler if you aren't going to use it. The GenIII uses a separate belt for the A/C drive so you could just remove it along with the associated hoses and tubing.
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Old 11-25-2009, 04:47 PM   #16
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Bringing this back from dead once again... I will probably just remove my belt since this is my exact problem, but have any of you successfully replaced the clutch and/or re-clearance it? And did it fix this problem? Thanks!
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Old 11-26-2009, 04:17 AM   #17
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The instructor at a recent ATG class I took says there is a flash to solve this problem. The belt is kicked off at start up due to belt slack as the idler spring is weak. The flash momentarily enables the A/C clutch during start up to tension the belt. You can get to the GM site through the nastf and like to their TSBs and reflashes.
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Old 11-26-2009, 04:17 AM
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02, 03, 2002, ac, belt, clutch, compressor, ls1, making, noise, reclearance, reroute, squeaking, squeals, suburban, z28


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