Way2Fast

iTrader: (1)

OK so my box of parts arrived today and like all of you, the car has been anticipating getting finished. Enough with the jokes, I have been changing the stall and switching from SLP lts to TSP lts. I also did urethane mounts. So, I got my gaskets and y pipe in today, so I buttoned up the driver side header. Climbed underneath to see the header is tucked up really tight almost too tight. So, I grabbed the short piece of y-pipe that attaches to the header and got it to slip on, but there is literally no room between it and the floorboard. Has anyone else had this issue? The spot that it is hitting is a raised section in the floor, would it be okay to take the BFH to it to get some clearance?

Sales1@Texas-speed

These do tuck up exceptionally well and depending on the car, and what mounts are being used it can be very tight to that particular location your talking about but with a little massaging it will fit fine. Ive installed multiple sets, utilizing everything from solid mounts to poly to stockers, and the way the motor sat was different everytime, so naturally clearance varied as well. If you have anymore questions don't hesitate to give me a call at the shop I would be happy to help you.

Mattyfresh89

I have BBK LTs with stock motor mounts and they are 1 RCH from the floor boards. I even had to take out the passenger side heat shield because there was literally no clearance. I've since painted the under carriage with ceramic paint, black, by VHT thats good to almost 2000 degrees. Plan on putting some sort of shield under there at some point in the future.


I've been told that using aftermarket motor mounts such as poly mounts would raise the motor a bit, maybe thats why?

I dont know if you want to smack the floor board with the BFH

Way2Fast

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the response. I just wanted to make sure it was OK to massage the floor a little, to gain some clearance. I love the way they tuck up. But after installing the mounts, I think the engine sits up 1/2" or so higher. So, that's the difference in what it would have needed, but then it would have beat the hell out of the floor wth the weak mounts.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

IMO, use a short piece of thick wall metal plumbing pipe and a jack with a flat poly or rubber surface. Place the curved part of the pipe directly under the area with the clearance issues and slowly jack the pipe up into the area until the floor area begins to bend to the curve of the pipe; repeat until you get the added clearance you need.

This has worked good for me, and it doesn't look hacked up.

BTW, I used a 4" long 2.5" diameter piece of pipe.