OpiumCrypt

Ok, so here goes..

Started with intake..
-SLP Lid
-SLP MAF sensor
-SLP Bellow
-K&N filter
-EGR Delete
Went to ignition..
-Optima Red Top battery
-NGK TR55 Iridium plugs
-Taylor 10.5mm plug wires
Ended with exhaust...
-TSP Long Tubes TSP ORY
-Magnaflow Cat back
-02 extensions and new Bosch 02 sensors
-Block off plates for the EGR

So..i knew it would throw some codes seeing as i deleted the EGR..but i didnt think it would throw ALL o2 sensors (well the rear 2 no activity code makes sense since their non existent but the front 2 are throwing a low voltage code and their new..so im not sure what thats all about)

The codes are fine and expected..but my car acts like its running on 6 cylinders..it does fine till about 2300rpm and then it bogs down..no backfiring just loss of power and hesitation

Now the question is..will a mail order tune fix this or do i have something else going on that im missing.

*other mods in case they might be attributing to it running like *****
-centerforce dual friction clutch
-11lb billet flywheel
-B&M ripper shifter
..everything else is suspension and exterior misc..so i doubt that very much

Any help on the subject would be greatly appreciated.

**almost forgot**
The car is a 1998 Camaro Z28, ls1 t-56 etc etc..

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

12 volts that runs to all 4 o2 sensors is also what powers the maf sensor, check the pass side to make sure headers arent burning through and causing a problem. Some of the o2 extensions are crap and can also cause the low voltage issue.

OpiumCrypt

im thinking that might be my problem as far as the o2 sensors are concerned..but would it cause such a bad hesitation and loss of power?

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

Yeah, my front drivers side o2 was going out on the dyno and the car wouldnt even get to 4k rpm on the dyno because it was so rich on the drivers bank. If Im not mistaking, low voltage on an o2 sensor calls for a rich situation and thats what you have with the bogging down and it usually happens in lower rpm's, say around 2300rpm or so .

OpiumCrypt

hmmm..soo this all could just be o2 related..(thank god..) if i had to start going threw troubleshooting everything that can cause hesitation or bogging down id fing lose it. ok now as far as fixing this issue..

question 1..if i get the front 2 fixed..will it still run rich without a tune to eliminate the back 2?

Question 2...should i just try and find some better o2 extensions or go with a completely different sensor in general? like i said these bosch ones are literally a day old..

LS-ONE_DAY

It's not going to be just O2 related. You need a tune. You changed a lot of stuff that affects the air in/air out. Most of them a mail tune may be able to take care of but changing the MAF requires a new tune to make it run properly and a mail tune can't always nail that down as well as a full tune will.

LunarWillow

iTrader: (3)

^This. The SLP MAF sensor is what is jumping out at me. I have heard many cases of people having trouble with them, esp. without a tune. All of your other mods are OK, I have done all of them and ran without a tune with good results, but on the stock MAF. It is possible that you may have gotten a bad O2 or O2 extensions, but I would plug the stock MAF back in and see where that gets you. Just my .02

sepsis

iTrader: (7)

Get it tuned man.

You can't just throw parts at a computer controlled vehicle and expect everything to work without some adjustments and tweaks.

OpiumCrypt

ok well general consensus that im gathering here is "get a tune"
I live in bum **** Egypt (aka..North Dakota..not where i want to be but my job requires it..) in other words...there isnt a decent place within 500-600 miles of here to dyno tune a car...so yea i guess a mail order tune will have to do it

Thanks everyone for your input, ill let you guys know how it goes after i get it "tuned by frost"..

Violatorno1

iTrader: (3)

If you are showing low voltage on both front banks I would start thinking that it may be the MAF which should be easy to determine just bt switching back to the original. There is not anything that you have done other than the MAF that the stock MAF would not compensate for. You did a lid and headers. It's not like you swapped to a large cam and swapped to a fast 102/102 setup. If it still runs as bad with the stock MAF then start looking at the O2 extensions.

VandykeT/A

Not sure what the effects of this are but are you sure you didn't hook up to the rear 02 sensor plug ins? I know crossing the driver side with the passenger side on a vette makes things go all to hell. I would also try the maf sensor and see what happens. I drove around on the factory tune forever with full bolt ons minus a maf and never had a problem.

Violatorno1

iTrader: (3)

Great point and something that could get overlooked. Double check those plugs and make sure you didn't plug an O2 sensor into a rear plug.

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, put the stock MAF back on and see how it runs. Stock MAF is fine anyway until you decide to go H/C/I. You don't NEED a tune with bolt-ons as said, it will just run a little rich.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

put a stock maf back on it, check the o2 wiring, then have frost tune it.

00SSChevy

^^^ what he said

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

dood, dont drive it till you get a frost tune, tell him everything , even the flywheel and you will be damn close . Then maybe try and straighten things out .But make sure no wires melted. Get the tune , order it today or tomorrow , dont wait. do it and then update us.

leon phelps

had a similar problem with a conversion.

get the tune in the car at all costs. the mail order one may be close, but street tune will be perfect.

OpiumCrypt

k pulled the pcm today, also took apart the entire lid/bellow/MAF assembly to clean it out. Ill have it sent out to frost tomorrow. I added everything i could think of as far as mods and what the car is doing/acting like so hopefully this will solve my problems..I also double checked the o2 sensors..none of the wires are melted and there the correct ones for the front both left and right. The back ones are tied off to the frame. After i get it tuned ill see how it acts and ill update this thread. And as far as throwing the old one back in..im retaded and threw the old one away..yeah i know brilliant..

LunarWillow

iTrader: (3)

Good to hear you're getting a tune, Frost should be able to straighten everything out. Just remember not to toss the old parts next time, just in case lol. If nothing else, you should be able to get a few bucks out of em.

KRAZY K 2000 TA

iTrader: (5)

i had all the same MODS done No Tune and it was fine ,In fact 26-28 MPG,drove it for three years till i put my first 402 in my car.