Is it possible to put a small portable a/c unit in a car?
#1
Is it possible to put a small portable a/c unit in a car?
Ok so I bought a turbo kit that requires me to remove my a/c system. Now I started thinking about how freaking hot it's going to get in the summer. Would the cig outlet with a dc- ac transmitter produce enuf volts/amps to support a small a/c system like the one listed below? Here is the power requirements that it needs.. My dc-ac cig outlet inverter takes it from 12c dc -110v ac. So I think it would provide enuf voltage for the a/c system, but would it be enuf for the 6 amps? Let me know what you guys think please?
•Input Voltage: 115V / 60Hz
•Power: 650 Watts ~ 6 Amps
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Portabl...item4607ec8e92
•Input Voltage: 115V / 60Hz
•Power: 650 Watts ~ 6 Amps
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Portabl...item4607ec8e92
#7
http://www.walmart.com/ip/20551666?a...l5=pla&veh=sem
I want to know if the battery and altenator are capable of keeping this thing running though? Can anyone give me an answer on that?
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#12
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6A from 120VAC which would be 60-70A worth of alternator
load through a very efficient inverter. Not the little inverter
you have. Talking a 800W+ model and hardwired in, with
thick gauge wire. You'd probably need a second alternator.
Depending on why the A/C has to go, you might be able
to relocate the compressor, mount the condenser elsewhere
with its own fan, or something.
load through a very efficient inverter. Not the little inverter
you have. Talking a 800W+ model and hardwired in, with
thick gauge wire. You'd probably need a second alternator.
Depending on why the A/C has to go, you might be able
to relocate the compressor, mount the condenser elsewhere
with its own fan, or something.
#13
6A from 120VAC which would be 60-70A worth of alternator
load through a very efficient inverter. Not the little inverter
you have. Talking a 800W+ model and hardwired in, with
thick gauge wire. You'd probably need a second alternator.
Depending on why the A/C has to go, you might be able
to relocate the compressor, mount the condenser elsewhere
with its own fan, or something.
load through a very efficient inverter. Not the little inverter
you have. Talking a 800W+ model and hardwired in, with
thick gauge wire. You'd probably need a second alternator.
Depending on why the A/C has to go, you might be able
to relocate the compressor, mount the condenser elsewhere
with its own fan, or something.
#14
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If you can find a really good, reliable, high current
F-body alternator then sure. But aside from the truck
alternator, I gather that a lot of people are not happy
with the options out there.
Check the Stereo section for all the fun about that.
F-body alternator then sure. But aside from the truck
alternator, I gather that a lot of people are not happy
with the options out there.
Check the Stereo section for all the fun about that.
#16
Yes the thread is for real. It looks like the only way to keep the car cool in the summer without a/c. I'm pretty sure for a long trip it'd be worth it to have nice cool a/c if possible. Mount it up back in the hatch where it's not even noticable and put the exhaust hose out a hole in the spare tire area....
#18
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (1)
Startup current can be easily 2X the running current with piston compressors, so you would need a really big alternator and convertor. Forget about using any existing circuit on the car. If you add all the other electrical stuff on your car, ie cooling fans, you would be way over 100 amps.
There are some marine AC systems that are designed to work off 12V and a converter, but they use banks of 3-4 batteries to run them.
There are several brackets for relocating AC compressors, I would suggest that first. There are even brackets to mount an alternator off the driveshaft at the differential that could be modified.
There are some marine AC systems that are designed to work off 12V and a converter, but they use banks of 3-4 batteries to run them.
There are several brackets for relocating AC compressors, I would suggest that first. There are even brackets to mount an alternator off the driveshaft at the differential that could be modified.
#19
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Startup current can be easily 2X the running current with piston compressors, so you would need a really big alternator and convertor. Forget about using any existing circuit on the car. If you add all the other electrical stuff on your car, ie cooling fans, you would be way over 100 amps.
There are some marine AC systems that are designed to work off 12V and a converter, but they use banks of 3-4 batteries to run them.
There are several brackets for relocating AC compressors, I would suggest that first. There are even brackets to mount an alternator off the driveshaft at the differential that could be modified.
There are some marine AC systems that are designed to work off 12V and a converter, but they use banks of 3-4 batteries to run them.
There are several brackets for relocating AC compressors, I would suggest that first. There are even brackets to mount an alternator off the driveshaft at the differential that could be modified.
Either ditch the turbo idea, or deal with losing a/c. That's about the best way to look at it.
#20
The Scammer Hammer
iTrader: (49)
OP, where do you live? I live in southern Louisiana and have deleted the air for 2 years now. It's not bad at all. You get used to it.
Don't spend more money than needed on inverter this and converter that... If you have a good idea how the kit will install, see if you can either use a different vehicles bracket to relocate the compressor, or make a custom bracket. It'll be fun to do by itself, let alone the feeling of accomplishment.
Don't spend more money than needed on inverter this and converter that... If you have a good idea how the kit will install, see if you can either use a different vehicles bracket to relocate the compressor, or make a custom bracket. It'll be fun to do by itself, let alone the feeling of accomplishment.