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Aluminum radiator vs stock max hp?

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Old 12-11-2012, 03:12 PM
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Default Aluminum radiator vs stock max hp?

Hi guys I hope i can get a few questions answerd... so i just replaced my water pump, thermostat, upper and lower hose along with the clamps to worm clamps. Iv been keeping an eye on it to see if there was any leaking and i noticed some spray on my passenger side right above the headlight. Turnes out my radiator inlet tank has a crack in it ... so now im trying to figure out what to do. should i just go with a stock replacement? but i plan on adding some HP and want to get a cam and go fast 102 and headers ect. so how much hp can a stock radiator handle safley?... or go with an all aluminum radiator i prob wont go supper expensive though prob only up to $300 im not going to get griffin or anything like that bc id rather spend that $600 towards an intake manifold or something. Any one know of any good aftermarket aluminum radiators in my range?
Thanks guys looking forward for the imput...
Old 12-12-2012, 02:19 AM
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It's not about power, it's about how you make the power, and cooling capacity. There are plenty of very high HP cars running a stock radiator.

A typical upgrade is the lt1 radiator. It is identical to the ls1 radiator but it has a thicker core.

Generally, all aluminum engines cool better for obvious reasons and a stock radiator is generally ok. Iron block engines typically work ok with a stock radiator, but can run a little hot, so an lt1 radiator is usually swapped in.

Unless your running high boost or high compression, an all aluminum radiator such as a be-cool or griffin is not a requirement, as an lt1 radiator will suffice. Although, it's not going to hurt anything if you can afford it.
Old 12-12-2012, 01:03 PM
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Any difference between all-aluminum and the composite,
comes down to core and price. The stock rad is undersized
for summer in the South, and that's before it gets full of
debris.

A top notch all aluminum will probably have an even
thicker core but the LT1 is a plenty good, plenty cheap
upgrade to try and if you don't like it, sell it.

Be aware that sometimes a "LT1" radiator may be just
as thin as the LS1 - check the product firsthand if you
can, or send it back if the core isn't filling the header
plates like it ought. This comes down to aftermarket
parts vendor trustworthiness.

That said, I found mine new on eBay from a local hole in
the wall parts place for under 50 bucks picked up, and it
was proper. Can't beat that action.
Old 12-13-2012, 04:22 AM
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Thanks guys
Yea I can't afford a griffin or be cool
Right now ha but I found an all aluminum radiator on eBay for 290 new it's by a online store so I'm kinda thinking about going with it bc it doesn't have that crappy plastic tank http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=82839320440

Link above
Or I could buy a used one from my friends 01 z that was wrecked (rear axle damage) and he wants $75 for it wich seems kinda high bc it's used but the car only had 48,000 on it and I can trust it or should I just buy a new
One for like 100 I know autozone has the LT1 and LS1 radiator as the same id# but idk what's what is there any difference at all between the two like extra hoses?
Appreciate the help guys
Old 12-13-2012, 07:06 AM
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The 97 lt1 radiator was exactly like the ls1 radiator, with the thin core. Every radiator you buy aftermarket or oem will have the supersceeded part number and be identical to the ls1.

Some differences on year include a low coolant level sensor. Which can be easily plugged if your car doesn't have the wire.
Old 12-13-2012, 05:40 PM
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Do the 97 radiators have all the same hose outlets? Like the one to the tb?
Old 12-19-2012, 01:58 AM
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I ended up buying a used one and replacing mine today all in all went well at least so far ha



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