Things to replace while swapping Intake Manifolds
#1
Things to replace while swapping Intake Manifolds
Hey everyone, my next project will be to get a new intake manifold on my 99 T/A. - Still rockin the LS1 manifold.
I'll probably be going with a BBK or LS6 (if its real cheap), anyways..
I'm going to switch to the LS6 PCV system and completely redo that with a catch can.
Anything else I can replace while the manifold is off? - (I know the oil sending unit will most likely break)
Any parts/part #s would be appreciated. Since its winter I won't be driving it much, so there isn't a time restraint.
I'll probably be going with a BBK or LS6 (if its real cheap), anyways..
I'm going to switch to the LS6 PCV system and completely redo that with a catch can.
Anything else I can replace while the manifold is off? - (I know the oil sending unit will most likely break)
Any parts/part #s would be appreciated. Since its winter I won't be driving it much, so there isn't a time restraint.
Last edited by 777Shock777; 12-15-2012 at 02:59 AM.
#3
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You shouldnt break the working unit if your carefull. Be sure to undo the vacuum line on the bsck of the manifold so it doesn't hand on the sending unit and you should be good to go. Ive pulled mine 8-10 time and never broke it. Just be carefull. Unless you want to replace it just for good measure....
Also if you buy a used ls6 mani swing by any auto parts store and get a new gasket kit for it. Only about $25 and is well worth it for peace of mind.
Also if you buy a used ls6 mani swing by any auto parts store and get a new gasket kit for it. Only about $25 and is well worth it for peace of mind.
#4
Sweet, thanks for the input guys. I'll be sure to look up the parts on RockAuto and purchase em.
If I happen to see an LS6 manifold for real cheap I definitely will buy it, if not I'm gonna just stick to the BBK idea and p/p the stock TB. Hopefully its not too restrictive on the intake.
If I happen to see an LS6 manifold for real cheap I definitely will buy it, if not I'm gonna just stick to the BBK idea and p/p the stock TB. Hopefully its not too restrictive on the intake.
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#8
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+1 on the knock sensors and harness. More than likely that motor bay has been cleaned before and more than likely water got under the intake. Guy on ebay sells acdelco with harness replacement for around $100. Great product and the trick is when you put the new ones on cover them in HIGH Temp RTV silicone.
This will keep the new ones from allowing any water down inside the knock sensor housing when you clean up that engine bay. Just pulled my intake a few months back because one of my knock sensors were bad (they were completely corroded) . It took me a good 3 hours start to finish, but now that I have a hang of it I think I could do it in about 2 hours if not less.
This will keep the new ones from allowing any water down inside the knock sensor housing when you clean up that engine bay. Just pulled my intake a few months back because one of my knock sensors were bad (they were completely corroded) . It took me a good 3 hours start to finish, but now that I have a hang of it I think I could do it in about 2 hours if not less.
#9
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some people to frame ties, plugs and plug wires, new motor mounts, electronic cutouts, i have t tops, i want to get frame ties they also help with handling. I just got kooks headers and td's back.
#11
#13
I'll PM you shortly.
Sweet, thanks for the tip! - I'll be sure to replace those, I wont actually do this til about late Jan./Feb. to purchase all the stuff and have plenty of time to plan it out
Thanks man, I'll be sure to do just that!
haha, I'll keep those in mind when I tackle headers next in spring!
+1 on the knock sensors and harness. More than likely that motor bay has been cleaned before and more than likely water got under the intake. Guy on ebay sells acdelco with harness replacement for around $100. Great product and the trick is when you put the new ones on cover them in HIGH Temp RTV silicone.
This will keep the new ones from allowing any water down inside the knock sensor housing when you clean up that engine bay. Just pulled my intake a few months back because one of my knock sensors were bad (they were completely corroded) . It took me a good 3 hours start to finish, but now that I have a hang of it I think I could do it in about 2 hours if not less.
This will keep the new ones from allowing any water down inside the knock sensor housing when you clean up that engine bay. Just pulled my intake a few months back because one of my knock sensors were bad (they were completely corroded) . It took me a good 3 hours start to finish, but now that I have a hang of it I think I could do it in about 2 hours if not less.
haha, I'll keep those in mind when I tackle headers next in spring!
#16
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dunno if you saw the trick used before, but you can also use tape near the bolt heads to hold up the intake manifold bolts past the mating surface when you are placing the intake onto the engine. remove the tape after the manifold is in position to drop the bolts down into the holes.
#17
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dunno if you saw the trick used before, but you can also use tape near the bolt heads to hold up the intake manifold bolts past the mating surface when you are placing the intake onto the engine. remove the tape after the manifold is in position to drop the bolts down into the holes.
#18
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I used 4 clothes pins to hold the bolts up and it was easy. A little trick....after you pop the hose off the booster pull it towards the passenger side of the engine bay around the back of the intake. This way there's less risk to breaking the opsu because the hose is the main cause of it breaking.
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I used 4 clothes pins to hold the bolts up and it was easy. A little trick....after you pop the hose off the booster pull it towards the passenger side of the engine bay around the back of the intake. This way there's less risk to breaking the opsu because the hose is the main cause of it breaking.
Clothes pins FTW.