Kooks True Duals
03-31-2013, 09:58 PM
#1
Kooks True Duals I searched the forums but didn't see a lot of people that had the Kooks true duals. Just wondering if there are any particular limitations or requirements for going with this package? I probably won't buy the system for a while so I was going to start doing the required suspension/other mods beforehand. Their website stated that an adjustable panhard bar is required, as is the drive shaft loop, I planned on upgrading the panhard bar & anti-sway bars anyway but why the drive shaft loop? (My car is nearly completely stock other than a lid)
If someone has had some experience installing the system I would be very interested in hearing their input. Thanks in advance.
If someone has had some experience installing the system I would be very interested in hearing their input. Thanks in advance.
03-31-2013, 11:09 PM
#2
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U need the upper relocation bar over the panhard. Get an adjustable panhard while your at it cuz the upper one comes with a drop bracket also. The ds loop i dont have it on my car cuz it used to bang loud on it so i fabbed a bracket off the tranny.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-install.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-install.html
04-01-2013, 04:05 PM
#3
There is a huge thread on the Kooks exhaust. Just search Kooks true duals.
You don't have to have a DS loop if you don't want to. It's just for safety. That being said if you get one do NOT get the BMR or anyone that goes under. Get the MWC loop that goes over....you'll have a lot more clearance. The system is great but a F'ing PIA to fine tune all the bumps, rattles and leaks out. This is my second complete exhaust setup and I know I will never have to change it again.
Mine with the single tips.
You don't have to have a DS loop if you don't want to. It's just for safety. That being said if you get one do NOT get the BMR or anyone that goes under. Get the MWC loop that goes over....you'll have a lot more clearance. The system is great but a F'ing PIA to fine tune all the bumps, rattles and leaks out. This is my second complete exhaust setup and I know I will never have to change it again.
Mine with the single tips.
Last edited by BrntWS6; 04-01-2013 at 04:10 PM.
04-01-2013, 05:36 PM
#4
Thanks for the reply. I'm going to take your advice and go with the MWC loop. How hard was the installation?
As for the PHB, any particular brands you recommend? Looks like the relocation kit is going to run me at least $200+ and another $100+ for the adjustable PHB, BMR looks to be lower to mid-range when it comes to pricing.
Looks like the PHB will be strictly bolt-on but what about the drive shaft safety loop, will I have to drill some holes? Obviously the drive shaft will have to be disconnected and I'm guessing I'll have to remove the seats & pull back the carpet?
Sorry if I'm asking stupid questions, I'm a N00B and this will only be my 2nd project thus far on the car.
As for the PHB, any particular brands you recommend? Looks like the relocation kit is going to run me at least $200+ and another $100+ for the adjustable PHB, BMR looks to be lower to mid-range when it comes to pricing.
Looks like the PHB will be strictly bolt-on but what about the drive shaft safety loop, will I have to drill some holes? Obviously the drive shaft will have to be disconnected and I'm guessing I'll have to remove the seats & pull back the carpet?
Sorry if I'm asking stupid questions, I'm a N00B and this will only be my 2nd project thus far on the car.
04-01-2013, 07:25 PM
#6
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Hi BrntWS6 - do you have true duals? How does this brand sound compared to the SLP LM1?
There is a huge thread on the Kooks exhaust. Just search Kooks true duals.
You don't have to have a DS loop if you don't want to. It's just for safety. That being said if you get one do NOT get the BMR or anyone that goes under. Get the MWC loop that goes over....you'll have a lot more clearance. The system is great but a F'ing PIA to fine tune all the bumps, rattles and leaks out. This is my second complete exhaust setup and I know I will never have to change it again.
Mine with the single tips.
You don't have to have a DS loop if you don't want to. It's just for safety. That being said if you get one do NOT get the BMR or anyone that goes under. Get the MWC loop that goes over....you'll have a lot more clearance. The system is great but a F'ing PIA to fine tune all the bumps, rattles and leaks out. This is my second complete exhaust setup and I know I will never have to change it again.
Mine with the single tips.
04-01-2013, 08:01 PM
#7
Thanks for the reply. I'm going to take your advice and go with the MWC loop. How hard was the installation?
As for the PHB, any particular brands you recommend? Looks like the relocation kit is going to run me at least $200+ and another $100+ for the adjustable PHB, BMR looks to be lower to mid-range when it comes to pricing.
Looks like the PHB will be strictly bolt-on but what about the drive shaft safety loop, will I have to drill some holes? Obviously the drive shaft will have to be disconnected and I'm guessing I'll have to remove the seats & pull back the carpet?
Sorry if I'm asking stupid questions, I'm a N00B and this will only be my 2nd project thus far on the car.
As for the PHB, any particular brands you recommend? Looks like the relocation kit is going to run me at least $200+ and another $100+ for the adjustable PHB, BMR looks to be lower to mid-range when it comes to pricing.
Looks like the PHB will be strictly bolt-on but what about the drive shaft safety loop, will I have to drill some holes? Obviously the drive shaft will have to be disconnected and I'm guessing I'll have to remove the seats & pull back the carpet?
Sorry if I'm asking stupid questions, I'm a N00B and this will only be my 2nd project thus far on the car.
Remove the old tunnel brace. Unbolt the DS bolts by the rear end and drop it down. It will slide in and out but don't take the yoke all the way out by the engine or fluid will come out. Slide the DS loop on and bolt it to where the tunnel brace was. It's very easy, don't forget lock tight on those DS bolts. It's easier (but not necessary) if the rear wheels are off the ground so you can spin the DS to get to all the bolts.
I went TD's because I didn't want any rasp after I installed my H/C. So I'd say it's quieter than the LM.
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04-01-2013, 08:05 PM
#8
Like BrntWS6 said....pita to tune in the fit. Cut quite a bit off to tuck the tips and miss the front side of my rear end - about an 1" - 1 1/2" total, but wanted it my way. Last system you'll ever need.
Over the LM1? Lol...two football fields and a **** house apart in sound and quality.
Over the LM1? Lol...two football fields and a **** house apart in sound and quality.
04-01-2013, 11:41 PM
#10
I dont have the suggested driveshaft loop. I fabricated a support for my X pipe using the OEM hangers and some flat iron.
I went with the UMI panhard relocation kit.
I have two sets of intermediate pipes: A catted set for the city and an OR set for the track. Its a 15 min job to change them (if you have access to a lift)
I went with the UMI panhard relocation kit.
I have two sets of intermediate pipes: A catted set for the city and an OR set for the track. Its a 15 min job to change them (if you have access to a lift)
04-02-2013, 04:32 PM
#12
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I dont have the suggested driveshaft loop. I fabricated a support for my X pipe using the OEM hangers and some flat iron.
I went with the UMI panhard relocation kit.
I have two sets of intermediate pipes: A catted set for the city and an OR set for the track. Its a 15 min job to change them (if you have access to a lift)
I went with the UMI panhard relocation kit.
I have two sets of intermediate pipes: A catted set for the city and an OR set for the track. Its a 15 min job to change them (if you have access to a lift)
