LS1ownzYOU

iTrader: (1)

Got my SLP lid, K&N (came w/ car), and SLP LM. Wondering which way to go now. I got a 2000 Z-28 A4. Was Thinkin of the following options.

-LTs (Pacesetter or Flowtech) - Maybe hooker if money allows
-ORY (matching the Lt company) - Yes i know its raspy and droney w/ LM.
-Ported TB, I read the sticky on it and wonderin if you guys think its worth it, and if so which way should i go and at what price?
-ASP pully, dont know much about them, and dont know how much to spend or even put is needed for this mod. I know its a U/D pully but you need a new belt and bolt as well. How much for this mod and is it worth the $$?


**Open to any suggestions**

86 IROC

iTrader: (14)

I have a car similar to yours and you can see what my mods have netted me thus far. I am doing gears next, 3.42's this weekend as a matter of fact. LT's are in the near future w/ an OR Y-pipe, but I have found a good deal on an LS6 intake so that is next. I am also looking into buying a pulley. I hear they are worth about .1 - .15 from everyone I talk to locally. My best pass was w/o the wires, ported TB, or gears. Also the fuel filter was in bad need of replacing. You can see how my MPH jumped nicely w/ less hook and in warmer weather after the wires and fuel filter.

The pulley is by no means cheap, or close to free... but a solid .1 and MPH is worth it to me at this stage in the game. After you've exhausted all the free/cheap mods, things start getting more & more pricey.

LS1ownzYOU

iTrader: (1)

So if i go the pully route what do i buy. The ASP crank or alt. pully, or both? And where do you the new belt for the new pully? And i also belive you need a new bolt.

-As for a ported t/b what do you reccomend. And what price neighborhood we talkin?
-Are MAF ends worth it? If so, how much are they and who has the best deals?
-Im gonna get some Taylor, Moroso, or MSD wires (havnt decided yet).
-And, my gears are 3.73s so i dont think im going to change them. (At least i think they are, if they arnt what gears would everyone reccomand?)

86 IROC

iTrader: (14)

Yup, you need a new bolt, either GM or ARP. The ARP is reuseable, the GM is not. The belts can usually be bought where the pulleys are sold. If not, I'm sure ASP's web site, or by using the search here will net you the results for the corresponding belt sizes. I personally am going to go the crank pulley only route. I don't think that much extra performance will be had by purchasing the alt. pulley. Plus, the alternator doesn't charge as well at low RPMs with an underdriven pulley. HTH

LS1ownzYOU

iTrader: (1)

How much for the ASP pully...? And where are you going to get yours?

raceguy333

i responded more in depth in the "new enthusiast" version of this post... but i say converter..

86 IROC

iTrader: (14)

The going rate is about $200. I will most likely go through Thunder Racing or Texas Speed, both great to deal with.

LS1ownzYOU

iTrader: (1)

Alrighty thanks for all your help, both of you.

LS1ownzYOU

iTrader: (1)

Is an aftermarket belt Tensioner needed or suggested when change the u/d pully and belt?

LS1 Brent

Get a converter 3200 + in stall size, a nice tranny cooler, and a sticky set of drag radials or ET streets. You will never regret it.

LS1ownzYOU

iTrader: (1)

bump bump!

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

Tensioner, No. unless your having issues with the stock one.

Belt, yes. Pulley requires a different belt. Many sponsors sell the pulley packaged with the belts.

LS1ownzYOU

iTrader: (1)

Just to save me some time, . You know whos got the best deal?

z2802sunsetls1

torque conveter and shift kit with trans cooler, and some stcky tires youll be runin beter the 12.9s

LS1ownzYOU

iTrader: (1)

Lol i see a growing trend...

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

One of the places over there >>--->

Bought my stuff from Thunder.. well over 3 years ago.

BTW.. a good converter is the best mod period.