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Removing the crankshaft bolt?!

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Old 10-04-2013, 09:35 AM
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Default Removing the crankshaft bolt?!

Okay, so I have an 8-gal air compressor and a 700ft-lbs Harbor Freight Earthquake gun. The son of a bitch crankshaft bolt will not come off. I have it on the engine stand, so torqueing on it with a breaker bar is not working.

I do have the flywheel locked into place (not that it matters with the impact), and I've sprayed PB Blaster best I can in there (though I doubt it gets down in there) and wailed on it until I've developed a headache. I had a Husky 300ft-lbs gun that wouldn't move it. So I went and got the Earthquake this morning. And I'm going CCW (which is correct, RIGHT?!)

Nothing.

Here are some pics/vids (does GM mark the bolts like this?) Is it possible the balancer was removed and a new crank bolt was added (with GOD KNOWS WHAT LOCTITE)?!

I need to get the balancer off so I can get the front cover removed. I am ready to start my rebuilt, but I can't even get the engine opened up all the way. WHAT THE ****.

My next idea is to heat the SOB up and hope I don't pop the damn bolt. Sigh.



Old 10-04-2013, 09:53 AM
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I haven't had alot of luck with impacts and those bolts. Sure some come off but most of them are easier to get off with a breaker bar. I've even had some that I've had to use a breaker bar and pipe on just for the extra leverage. You may have to just use a longer breaker bar. It makes it difficult being on a stand vs in a 3k lb+ car though. If you do go with the longer bar, just be careful not to round off the bolt.
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:55 AM
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put a flywheel on the back of the engine, clamp a set of vice grips to the flywheel, turn until the grips /flywheel come in contact with the block...
then you should be able to use a breaker bar with a jack handle or a pipe over it for an extension and it will come loose no problems.
I've done it that way many times while on a stand.
Old 10-04-2013, 09:57 AM
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I got mine off with a 1/2" drive ratchet and my "custom" breaker bar which is simply a pipe that fits over the ratchet for extra leverage; however, I still had it in the car so the trans was helping me out.

My redneck idea for your situation? Wrap a chain around the balancer with the other end wrapped around something fixed to the ground. Start wrenching on it from there. You might ruin the balancer, but it's a good reason to upgrade to a UDP
Old 10-04-2013, 09:58 AM
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also, those bolts are so hard to get off...because if you put them on the correct way, its a stretch to yield bolt....I can get a 300 ft-lb torque wrench to click over before I can get it to 140* past 38 ft-lbs

most people cannot get it to 140*....I can....but I think its because I'm weird and can do odd **** like that for some reason..LOL
Old 10-04-2013, 10:00 AM
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My stand is shitty. Everytime I tried to pull on the breaker, it just pulls the whole stand downward.

I'll try it tho. The impact seems worthless. Another thing for my wife to bitch about.

And my custom breaker bar is the pipe from my 3-ton lift over my wrench. It's how I've done all the suspension work on both cars.

And I have a new ATI UD sitting here.

I might actually get my crane, bolt it to the front of the engine to help secure it + the stand, and see if I can get leverage on it.
Old 10-04-2013, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by demonspeed
I got mine off with a 1/2" drive ratchet and my "custom" breaker bar which is simply a pipe that fits over the ratchet for extra leverage; however, I still had it in the car so the trans was helping me out.

My redneck idea for your situation? Wrap a chain around the balancer with the other end wrapped around something fixed to the ground. Start wrenching on it from there. You might ruin the balancer, but it's a good reason to upgrade to a UDP
UDP's are crap.....
stay with a standard size balancer, but upgrade to a true Harmonic Damper like an ATI Super Damper...you will see more power gains from that than you will from an underdrive pulley, and your engine will last longer and rev higher due to better harmonic control.
Old 10-04-2013, 10:00 AM
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Run the air PSI up as high as it will go. Impact got mine off.

You may not have enough air.
Old 10-04-2013, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 96lt4c4
Run the air PSI up as high as it will go. Impact got mine off.

You may not have enough air.
that's the other problem....
8 gallon tank...isnt big enough to hold pressure long enough to get the full use out of the impact
you need sustained high pressure for an impact to be effective.
Old 10-04-2013, 10:19 AM
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The impact probably doesn't have enough air. But it loosened it. When I took the breaker to it, it came off really easily. Much easier than when I tried to break it off with the breaker to start with... so the hammering of the impact probably shook it free.

Also, I have the 10% underdriven ATI Superdamper.

Old 10-04-2013, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
Also, I have the 10% underdriven ATI Superdamper.

better than the other UDP choices....
but dont push that pulley past 7500 and dont push it past 750 FWHP....
once you hit that point, you need the bigger one.
Old 10-04-2013, 10:53 AM
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my neighbor whos a mechanic had me tap the key start while he somehow had a wrench on the bolt. loosened up after 2 quick taps.
Old 10-04-2013, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by DANOZ28
my neighbor whos a mechanic had me tap the key start while he somehow had a wrench on the bolt. loosened up after 2 quick taps.
that is very dangerous...and can actually damage the starter and/or the flywheel if done wrong.

Old 10-04-2013, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
that is very dangerous...and can actually damage the starter and/or the flywheel if done wrong.

i did NOT know this was dangerous , im sorry i mention it and i hope nobody trys it.
Old 10-04-2013, 11:56 AM
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Yeah, I wouldn't recommend that. Heat and impact or just some brawn with a breaker bar.
Old 10-04-2013, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by DANOZ28
i did NOT know this was dangerous , im sorry i mention it and i hope nobody trys it.
all it takes is one time of somebody not knowing to disconnect everything, and they have their hand in the wrong place, and the car actually starts on a "bump start"....and somebody is gonna lose fingers, or a hand, or an arm over it, or something is going to fly off and impale them and kill them...

even just the torque of the wrench being pulled by the engine can take a person and pull them off their feet and into something else causing pain or damage.
Old 10-04-2013, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
all it takes is one time of somebody not knowing to disconnect everything, and they have their hand in the wrong place, and the car actually starts on a "bump start"....and somebody is gonna lose fingers, or a hand, or an arm over it, or something is going to fly off and impale them and kill them...

even just the torque of the wrench being pulled by the engine can take a person and pull them off their feet and into something else causing pain or damage.
Agreed, and putting that kind of load on the starter will rip it right out of the engine block.
Old 10-04-2013, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
UDP's are crap.....
The basic UDP (ASP, SLP, Powerbond, etc.) is crap if one is actually looking for a dampener and not looking to spin to ungodly rpms for a sustained amount of time. While I agree with what I'm assuming is your point of the matter is (simply inferred based on your setup), to discourage someone from installing one is doing a disservice.
Old 10-11-2013, 09:42 AM
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If you use a small handheld propane torch and just heat it alittle and then hit it with a impact it will come right off. You don't have to hold anything or chain anything or any other strange stuff!
Old 10-11-2013, 10:48 AM
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More air psi is your friend! I used an Aircat 1200 1/2" fittings, with 140psi and it came off like a lug nut lol.


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