Removing the crankshaft bolt?!
#1
Removing the crankshaft bolt?!
Okay, so I have an 8-gal air compressor and a 700ft-lbs Harbor Freight Earthquake gun. The son of a bitch crankshaft bolt will not come off. I have it on the engine stand, so torqueing on it with a breaker bar is not working.
I do have the flywheel locked into place (not that it matters with the impact), and I've sprayed PB Blaster best I can in there (though I doubt it gets down in there) and wailed on it until I've developed a headache. I had a Husky 300ft-lbs gun that wouldn't move it. So I went and got the Earthquake this morning. And I'm going CCW (which is correct, RIGHT?!)
Nothing.
Here are some pics/vids (does GM mark the bolts like this?) Is it possible the balancer was removed and a new crank bolt was added (with GOD KNOWS WHAT LOCTITE)?!
I need to get the balancer off so I can get the front cover removed. I am ready to start my rebuilt, but I can't even get the engine opened up all the way. WHAT THE ****.
My next idea is to heat the SOB up and hope I don't pop the damn bolt. Sigh.
I do have the flywheel locked into place (not that it matters with the impact), and I've sprayed PB Blaster best I can in there (though I doubt it gets down in there) and wailed on it until I've developed a headache. I had a Husky 300ft-lbs gun that wouldn't move it. So I went and got the Earthquake this morning. And I'm going CCW (which is correct, RIGHT?!)
Nothing.
Here are some pics/vids (does GM mark the bolts like this?) Is it possible the balancer was removed and a new crank bolt was added (with GOD KNOWS WHAT LOCTITE)?!
I need to get the balancer off so I can get the front cover removed. I am ready to start my rebuilt, but I can't even get the engine opened up all the way. WHAT THE ****.
My next idea is to heat the SOB up and hope I don't pop the damn bolt. Sigh.
#2
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iTrader: (5)
I haven't had alot of luck with impacts and those bolts. Sure some come off but most of them are easier to get off with a breaker bar. I've even had some that I've had to use a breaker bar and pipe on just for the extra leverage. You may have to just use a longer breaker bar. It makes it difficult being on a stand vs in a 3k lb+ car though. If you do go with the longer bar, just be careful not to round off the bolt.
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#3
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
put a flywheel on the back of the engine, clamp a set of vice grips to the flywheel, turn until the grips /flywheel come in contact with the block...
then you should be able to use a breaker bar with a jack handle or a pipe over it for an extension and it will come loose no problems.
I've done it that way many times while on a stand.
then you should be able to use a breaker bar with a jack handle or a pipe over it for an extension and it will come loose no problems.
I've done it that way many times while on a stand.
#4
It's not mine! woo hoo!
iTrader: (7)
I got mine off with a 1/2" drive ratchet and my "custom" breaker bar which is simply a pipe that fits over the ratchet for extra leverage; however, I still had it in the car so the trans was helping me out.
My redneck idea for your situation? Wrap a chain around the balancer with the other end wrapped around something fixed to the ground. Start wrenching on it from there. You might ruin the balancer, but it's a good reason to upgrade to a UDP
My redneck idea for your situation? Wrap a chain around the balancer with the other end wrapped around something fixed to the ground. Start wrenching on it from there. You might ruin the balancer, but it's a good reason to upgrade to a UDP
#5
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
also, those bolts are so hard to get off...because if you put them on the correct way, its a stretch to yield bolt....I can get a 300 ft-lb torque wrench to click over before I can get it to 140* past 38 ft-lbs
most people cannot get it to 140*....I can....but I think its because I'm weird and can do odd **** like that for some reason..LOL
most people cannot get it to 140*....I can....but I think its because I'm weird and can do odd **** like that for some reason..LOL
#6
My stand is shitty. Everytime I tried to pull on the breaker, it just pulls the whole stand downward.
I'll try it tho. The impact seems worthless. Another thing for my wife to bitch about.
And my custom breaker bar is the pipe from my 3-ton lift over my wrench. It's how I've done all the suspension work on both cars.
And I have a new ATI UD sitting here.
I might actually get my crane, bolt it to the front of the engine to help secure it + the stand, and see if I can get leverage on it.
I'll try it tho. The impact seems worthless. Another thing for my wife to bitch about.
And my custom breaker bar is the pipe from my 3-ton lift over my wrench. It's how I've done all the suspension work on both cars.
And I have a new ATI UD sitting here.
I might actually get my crane, bolt it to the front of the engine to help secure it + the stand, and see if I can get leverage on it.
#7
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
I got mine off with a 1/2" drive ratchet and my "custom" breaker bar which is simply a pipe that fits over the ratchet for extra leverage; however, I still had it in the car so the trans was helping me out.
My redneck idea for your situation? Wrap a chain around the balancer with the other end wrapped around something fixed to the ground. Start wrenching on it from there. You might ruin the balancer, but it's a good reason to upgrade to a UDP
My redneck idea for your situation? Wrap a chain around the balancer with the other end wrapped around something fixed to the ground. Start wrenching on it from there. You might ruin the balancer, but it's a good reason to upgrade to a UDP
stay with a standard size balancer, but upgrade to a true Harmonic Damper like an ATI Super Damper...you will see more power gains from that than you will from an underdrive pulley, and your engine will last longer and rev higher due to better harmonic control.
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#10
The impact probably doesn't have enough air. But it loosened it. When I took the breaker to it, it came off really easily. Much easier than when I tried to break it off with the breaker to start with... so the hammering of the impact probably shook it free.
Also, I have the 10% underdriven ATI Superdamper.
Also, I have the 10% underdriven ATI Superdamper.
#16
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
even just the torque of the wrench being pulled by the engine can take a person and pull them off their feet and into something else causing pain or damage.
#17
The Scammer Hammer
iTrader: (49)
all it takes is one time of somebody not knowing to disconnect everything, and they have their hand in the wrong place, and the car actually starts on a "bump start"....and somebody is gonna lose fingers, or a hand, or an arm over it, or something is going to fly off and impale them and kill them...
even just the torque of the wrench being pulled by the engine can take a person and pull them off their feet and into something else causing pain or damage.
even just the torque of the wrench being pulled by the engine can take a person and pull them off their feet and into something else causing pain or damage.
#18
It's not mine! woo hoo!
iTrader: (7)
The basic UDP (ASP, SLP, Powerbond, etc.) is crap if one is actually looking for a dampener and not looking to spin to ungodly rpms for a sustained amount of time. While I agree with what I'm assuming is your point of the matter is (simply inferred based on your setup), to discourage someone from installing one is doing a disservice.
#19
If you use a small handheld propane torch and just heat it alittle and then hit it with a impact it will come right off. You don't have to hold anything or chain anything or any other strange stuff!