Welding oil pan without removing it from car...yay or nay??
02-23-2014, 02:10 PM
#1
Welding oil pan without removing it from car...yay or nay?? Hit a pothole with rocks or some sh**...now i got a thumb size hole in my oil pan.
Hate to go through the hassle of taking out the oil pan and replacing it although i know that is the safest and best solution...for obvious reasons.
Anyway...i just want a "temporary" but "solid" fix till i find time to replace it.
Soooo....Is it OK (like safe) to weld it without removing the pan?
Heard some ppl say its not safe as the oil can catch fire. Obviously i will drain the pan before having is welded but still, heard it can still catch fire.
What's the deal on this guys??....will this be feasible?
Hate to go through the hassle of taking out the oil pan and replacing it although i know that is the safest and best solution...for obvious reasons.
Anyway...i just want a "temporary" but "solid" fix till i find time to replace it.
Soooo....Is it OK (like safe) to weld it without removing the pan?
Heard some ppl say its not safe as the oil can catch fire. Obviously i will drain the pan before having is welded but still, heard it can still catch fire.
What's the deal on this guys??....will this be feasible?
Last edited by Freefallin; 02-23-2014 at 02:34 PM.
02-23-2014, 02:38 PM
#3
02-23-2014, 02:59 PM
#4
Definitely would not do it. Besides the oil igniting, without cleaning all the residue out of the pan completely, oil can seep into the place that you are welding and contaminate the weld and turn to ****. Remove the pan and clean it out completely multiple times, don't use brake clean because when welding, it reacts and cause serious health damage. There are a lot of articles on it. I would use Dawn dish soap since it cuts the oil and that is what they use to clean the oil spill animals. Plus you can do a better job on the bench. Be a good time if you were planning on doing rod bolts.
02-23-2014, 03:27 PM
#5
It's got a thumb sized hole in it, so you'll want to TIG weld a patch over that. You'll also want to carefully inspect the entire pan for cracks that may have been caused by transmitted force. The solid cast alum will transmit a lot more force than a stamped tin pan will.
Also, for it to be welded, the patch area needs to be clean. Like surgical clean.
You can do it from under the car, without removing the pan.
But I would remove the pan and clean it really well so I can inspect it inside and out. It may turn out to be damaged beyond repair, and it's cheaper to put on another used pan.
Also, for it to be welded, the patch area needs to be clean. Like surgical clean.
You can do it from under the car, without removing the pan.
But I would remove the pan and clean it really well so I can inspect it inside and out. It may turn out to be damaged beyond repair, and it's cheaper to put on another used pan.
02-24-2014, 08:58 AM
#7
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Regardless of whether or not the oil will catch fire, having oil on the back side of an aluminum weld pool will allow the oil to seep through and contaminate the weld.
I cleaned my fbody oil pan extremely well before I welded it, and it even got some oil contamination and pinholes during the weld due to the oil in the casting porosity. That was with aluminum which was pretty shiny on both sides of the weld bead.
You are better off fixing with with JB weld or something as a temp fix, and I wouldn't drive it much more than just driving it home from wherever it is now.
I cleaned my fbody oil pan extremely well before I welded it, and it even got some oil contamination and pinholes during the weld due to the oil in the casting porosity. That was with aluminum which was pretty shiny on both sides of the weld bead.
You are better off fixing with with JB weld or something as a temp fix, and I wouldn't drive it much more than just driving it home from wherever it is now.
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02-25-2014, 03:49 PM
#8
TECH Enthusiast
Was also going to mention jb weld. Do a good prep job so it will stick properly & there's no reason this stuff won't hold. You may need to apply 2 layers to be sure you got sufficient thickness. You could also glue a scrap of aluminum sheet under the repair to act as a skid plate for the spot. I know of several engines still in use with jb on the oil pan. Also my gas tank has had it on a few spots for 20 years now. How's 20 years for a temporary patch?? proper prep & application is key here.
As far as welding on an aluminum pan, even off the car, it's best to have it in a jig to avoid warpage.
As far as welding on an aluminum pan, even off the car, it's best to have it in a jig to avoid warpage.
02-27-2014, 11:07 AM
#9
Reminds me of a time when I realized that I was welding an exhaust hanger a foot away from the gas tank. Thought to myself, "people will say;" "what a dumbass," @ my funeral, lol. All kidding aside, not recommended.
03-01-2014, 07:06 AM
#11
I wouldn't weld. The chance of igniting the oil on the inside is too great. You're heating the pan at that spot to melting point which is well above the flash point of motor oil.
As you say this is temporary, clean & dry the area real well and epoxy some sort of metal plate patch to the outside.
Make sure the epoxy is oil & heat resistant.
As you say this is temporary, clean & dry the area real well and epoxy some sort of metal plate patch to the outside.
Make sure the epoxy is oil & heat resistant.
