collector/ORY/floorboard issue
#1
collector/ORY/floorboard issue
i just installed my long tubes and the driverside collector angle inhibits the y pipe section from going on. it hits the floor pan reinforcement thing (?)
ive tried adjusting the header. i guess i have two options. motor mounts are not one of them. the engine is coming out again in a couple months anyways for a cam, gaskets, etc, but i wanted to do the headers and plugs for the time being.
option 1: pound in/notch the pan reinforcement?
option 2: get a shop to bend and shorten the section in a more dramatic angle to slip on the collector and clear the reinforcement? (the issue with this is that its stainless and mandrel bent and the two shitty exhaust shops do crush bent and mild steel exhausts.
what do you guys think?
ive tried adjusting the header. i guess i have two options. motor mounts are not one of them. the engine is coming out again in a couple months anyways for a cam, gaskets, etc, but i wanted to do the headers and plugs for the time being.
option 1: pound in/notch the pan reinforcement?
option 2: get a shop to bend and shorten the section in a more dramatic angle to slip on the collector and clear the reinforcement? (the issue with this is that its stainless and mandrel bent and the two shitty exhaust shops do crush bent and mild steel exhausts.
what do you guys think?
#2
Collector clearance
Maybe an adjustable torque arm or finding a way to lower the trans tail shaft a 1/4" will give you the clearance as long as the angle of the engine and pinion isn't too great. Just an idea.
#3
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (35)
Option 1,
I'd get a short piece of thick walled 2.25"-2.75" OD metal pipe(local hardware store) and jack it up into the floor pan brace repeatedly until you get the needed clearance. This does a nicer job of giving you the needed clearance without it looking bad, and it a lot easier than beating the floor brace with a big hammer.
I'd get a short piece of thick walled 2.25"-2.75" OD metal pipe(local hardware store) and jack it up into the floor pan brace repeatedly until you get the needed clearance. This does a nicer job of giving you the needed clearance without it looking bad, and it a lot easier than beating the floor brace with a big hammer.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 03-27-2014 at 11:36 PM.
#4
Option 1,
I'd get a short piece of thick walled 2.25"-2.75" OD metal pipe(local hardware store) and jack it up into the floor pan brace repeatedly until you get the needed clearance. This does a nicer job of giving you the need clearance without it looking really bad, and it a lot easier than beating the floor brace with a big hammer.
I'd get a short piece of thick walled 2.25"-2.75" OD metal pipe(local hardware store) and jack it up into the floor pan brace repeatedly until you get the needed clearance. This does a nicer job of giving you the need clearance without it looking really bad, and it a lot easier than beating the floor brace with a big hammer.
#6
When I installed the Dynatech long tubes on my car, I ran into a similar issue where the floor support was contacting the y-pipe. I ended up cutting an arc into the support and welding in tubing to restructure the location while still providing full clearance for the exhaust.
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (57)
This seems to be an issue with most ORY's, looking for a good solution with mine too.
NOT sure why these vendors cant factor in that brace cross member on the drivers side? Are they all copying one bad prototype? Just a slight bend in that area would solve that issue...???
NOT sure why these vendors cant factor in that brace cross member on the drivers side? Are they all copying one bad prototype? Just a slight bend in that area would solve that issue...???