What to get...ARP header bolts or Stage 8?
#5
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I agree with Dope, go with the header studs. I have them on my TT car and they make mounting the manifolds a lot easier.
The studs are nice since you can hang the gasket and the manifold on the studs and simply tighten them down. Just a lot simpler if you ask me. I have had problems with stripping threads using the stockers.
The studs are nice since you can hang the gasket and the manifold on the studs and simply tighten them down. Just a lot simpler if you ask me. I have had problems with stripping threads using the stockers.
#6
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Originally Posted by BlackBeaSSt
Dope: How does the ARP header bolts make headers any easier to install?
What very commonly happens (and happened to me), is that when you are trying to get the headers mounted, and you start the bolts to 'hang' it, it will tear the threads out of the aluminum head. You put in one bolt, thread it partially in, then go for the other end, partially thread that in, then you go for others, right? Well that's great, when you're doing all of this in an insanely cramped work area (especially passenger side) while holding on to a header that weighs a good amount (5-10lbs gets mighty heavy after a while). Oh yeah, did I mention you're trying to keep the gasket lined up too (and not drop it)? It's a huge pain in the ***, and once you damage some threads (like I did, took a tap to it to get it to work again), or worse, crossthread the head, you're SCREWED.
With studs, you simply install the studs. Put the gasket on. Hang the header on and tighten a bunch of nuts. Woopie doo. No chance of damage, no dropping anything, much much easier. Plus if you do a lot of header swaps, you won't risk damaging your threads every time. Just undo the nuts, pull the header off, and replace.
I even put studs in my AIR fittings and such.
Dope
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#9
Originally Posted by Dope
With studs, you simply install the studs. Put the gasket on. Hang the header on and tighten a bunch of nuts. Woopie doo. No chance of damage, no dropping anything, much much easier. Plus if you do a lot of header swaps, you won't risk damaging your threads every time. Just undo the nuts, pull the header off, and replace.
Dope
Dope
But you don't have to buy all studs, a couple on each bank will do just fine.
Since I've just joined the Dynatech Supermaxx Header system GP sale, I'd like to try some studs on the Supermaxx job. Can anyone call aout the proper size/length studs for the LS1 or post a URL?
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Originally Posted by fnbrowning
Thanks for reminding me. I remember that I used several studs on a 2nd Gen Firebird Hooker header install. Made the job easier for all the reasons listed above. BTW: What is really trick is to use aircraft locking nuts with the studs!
But you don't have to buy all studs, a couple on each bank will do just fine.
Since I've just joined the Dynatech Supermaxx Header system GP sale, I'd like to try some studs on the Supermaxx job. Can anyone call aout the proper size/length studs for the LS1 or post a URL?
But you don't have to buy all studs, a couple on each bank will do just fine.
Since I've just joined the Dynatech Supermaxx Header system GP sale, I'd like to try some studs on the Supermaxx job. Can anyone call aout the proper size/length studs for the LS1 or post a URL?
I actually haven't used ARPs yet, when I almost crossthreaded a bolt on the passenger side, I went to the local hardware store and bought a bunch of nuts and studs that fit. It was like $5. The studs were a little short though, I couldn't fit a lock washer on, just the nuts (with like 1-2 threads protruding). It never came loose but I always worried about that. This time I bought ARPs just for the hell of it - they are $$ though. I think $80 or $90 from thunder racing. Go to a local fastener shop if you want to do it cheap.
Good call on a couple studs per bank. You could use studs and Stage 8 lockers on every other hole for the ultimate setup. I think I'm still gonna use studs anyway though. I never re-tightened my studs (or bolts) and they never came loose after a few years of driving before I sold the car.
Dope
#13
Originally Posted by racrx
stock bolts with a bit of anti sieze works fine, spend your money elsewhere. racrx
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Originally Posted by BlackBeaSSt
Is Thunder Racing the only one who sells the ARP header studs? Also, is it on their site because I didnt see it? Do they sell them as a package or individually? Thanks.
Dope
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Originally Posted by BlackBeaSSt
Is Thunder Racing the only one who sells the ARP header studs? Also, is it on their site because I didnt see it? Do they sell them as a package or individually? Thanks.
113-434-1301 ARP Header Stud Kit, LS1,LS6, 5.7L & 6.0L $89.99
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...3&sid=280#P651
#16
Originally Posted by Dope
What are aircraft locking nuts? I'm doing a clutch install on my vette soon and it will involve pulling the headers, and I plan on putting studs in at that time too.
Dope
Dope
Self-locking nuts, as the name implies, do not need a locking device. The most common method of locking is derived from a fiber insert. This insert has a smaller diameter than the nut itself so that when a bolt enters the nut it taps into the fiber insert producing a locking action. This fiber insert is temperature limited to 250-deg. F.
An all metal locking nut is used forward of the aircraft firewall and in other high temperature areas. In place of a fiber insert, the threads of a metal locking nut narrow slightly at one end to provide more friction. It is capable of withstanding high temperatures.
What I did last time, and will probably do again is to use several standard steel studs with NF threads on the header side. I will use all metal, high temperature, twelve point aircraft locking nuts on the studs.
#19
For those who have used the ARP studs, did you run into problems with clearance? I was told it is more difficult to get the header onto the studs due to the tight fit vs putting the headers flat against the heads and using bolts.