Canton Racing Accusump Install in the Goat
07-27-2014, 06:21 PM
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Canton Racing Accusump Install in the Goat Drifting and other motorsports require your engine to be at wide open throttle going sideways for extended periods of time. As you can imagine, proper oiling can become an issue if oil sloshes away from the pickup tube or fails to drain back to the oil pan fast enough. Canton Racing's 3 QT Accusump provides extra oil directly into your engine when loss of oil pressure occurs. The Accusump system is a relatively inexpensive safeguard against destroying the heart of your vehicle. That is the reason I decided to install one in my GTO.
The first step before I ordered my Accusump was to decide how I wanted to plumb the the setup to my engine. This included finding out how much -10 steel braided pressure hose I needed along with the quantity and types of various AN fittings. The guys at Canton Racing were extremely helpful during my ordering process and got me set up with all the proper fittings and parts I needed.
I purchased:
24-006 3 QT Accusump
24-200 Accusump mounting clamps 2/3 QT
24-260 Manual ball valve
22-593 LS1 90 degree rotating remote filter
22-625 Remote oil filter mount
23-605 (36ft) -10AN Steel braided hose
24-280 1/2" NPT check valve
23-245A (6) 1/2NPT to -10AN fittings
23-625 (4) -10AN straight fittings
23-665 (5) -10AN 90 degree fitting
23-645 (1) -10AN 45 degree fitting
23-245TA (1) T 1/2NPT TO (2)-10AN fitting
To measure the amount of line I needed, I routed string the same way I wanted the braided hose to go. I stopped and started where each connection would be and added all the lengths, which totaled almost 36ft all said and done.
The next step was to get the Accusump mounted and then start cutting and assembling the -10 hose and AN fittings.
The AN fitting assembly process is actually very simple. I used a cheap set of Harbor Freight cable cutters that provided a clean, no dust cut with minimal fraying. Once the hose was cut, I pushed the red socket head base over the hose end with a twisting motion. Once the hose bottomed out on the inside shoulder in the socket head base, I put the base in a vise lined with tape to prevent marring of the anodized aluminum. The nipple part of the AN fitting then was dipped in oil and pressed into the hose currently clamped in the vise. I had to use a fair amount of pressure accompanied with a twisting motion to get the nipple passed the hose lip. Once the nipple was pushed in far enough to start threading into the base, I used a wrench to finish threading the AN fitting together to make an oil tight seal.
Finished hoses with AN fittings installed.
The first step before I ordered my Accusump was to decide how I wanted to plumb the the setup to my engine. This included finding out how much -10 steel braided pressure hose I needed along with the quantity and types of various AN fittings. The guys at Canton Racing were extremely helpful during my ordering process and got me set up with all the proper fittings and parts I needed.
I purchased:
24-006 3 QT Accusump
24-200 Accusump mounting clamps 2/3 QT
24-260 Manual ball valve
22-593 LS1 90 degree rotating remote filter
22-625 Remote oil filter mount
23-605 (36ft) -10AN Steel braided hose
24-280 1/2" NPT check valve
23-245A (6) 1/2NPT to -10AN fittings
23-625 (4) -10AN straight fittings
23-665 (5) -10AN 90 degree fitting
23-645 (1) -10AN 45 degree fitting
23-245TA (1) T 1/2NPT TO (2)-10AN fitting
To measure the amount of line I needed, I routed string the same way I wanted the braided hose to go. I stopped and started where each connection would be and added all the lengths, which totaled almost 36ft all said and done.
The next step was to get the Accusump mounted and then start cutting and assembling the -10 hose and AN fittings.
The AN fitting assembly process is actually very simple. I used a cheap set of Harbor Freight cable cutters that provided a clean, no dust cut with minimal fraying. Once the hose was cut, I pushed the red socket head base over the hose end with a twisting motion. Once the hose bottomed out on the inside shoulder in the socket head base, I put the base in a vise lined with tape to prevent marring of the anodized aluminum. The nipple part of the AN fitting then was dipped in oil and pressed into the hose currently clamped in the vise. I had to use a fair amount of pressure accompanied with a twisting motion to get the nipple passed the hose lip. Once the nipple was pushed in far enough to start threading into the base, I used a wrench to finish threading the AN fitting together to make an oil tight seal.
Finished hoses with AN fittings installed.
07-27-2014, 06:21 PM
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I used Teflon tape on all the NPT ends, including the ball valve at the Accusump, the check valve threaded into the T, and all the adapters on the oil filter adapter and remote oil filter mount. The actual AN fittings do not need Teflon on the threads since they use an oil tight mating surface.
After the oil filter adapter and remote oil filter mounts were prepped, I installed them on the engine and firewall respectively. I decided to attach the remote oil filter mount on the inside passenger side firewall for ease of access and plumbing. The T junction was mounted to the underside of the dash where the AC and heating system would have been. The T itself consisted of one NPT thread with two -10 AN threaded ends. The single hose from the Accusump went into the T on one of the AN sides. The check valve was mounted on the NPT end of the T to keep the Accusump oil from back-flowing into the remote oil filter block rather than directly into the engine. The final AN line came off the T which completed the oil flow from the clean oil side of the filter, and also allows the Accusump oil a passageway to the engine in the event of oil pressure loss.
Finally, that left priming the Accusump and checking for oil leaks. I used the Schrader valve on the Accusump body to lower the precharge to 10PSI since it came pressurized higher (40-60 PSI) from the factory. I opened the ball valve on the Accusump so it would fill with oil during start-up. I overfilled my engine by a few quarts to allow the sump to accept some oil without starving the engine. My next step was to start the car. Once the sump filled up a bit, I closed the ball valve, shut the engine off, and filled the oil pan for a total of 10QTs being held throughout the entire system. This time I started the engine and then opened the ball valve on the Accusump to let it fill completely, bumped the engine to a high idle, shut off the ball valve, and turned off the engine.
When I'm just driving around town I leave the ball valve closed to the Accusump and let the engine run as if it did not have the sump system. I use the Accusump's 3 extra quarts of oil to precharge my engine before startup, after it has been sitting for a while, and even before I started the engine for the first time after the lifter, cam, and valve spring swap. Very handy piece of equipment! When drifting I leave the ball valve open for the whole event to make sure oil will be there on demand if oil pressure loss occurs.
Please feel free to comment or email me if you have any questions about my setup or it's operation. Also do not hesitate to contact Canton for any technical questions about a setup that is right for your application.
Oh..and don't forget to have fun!
After the oil filter adapter and remote oil filter mounts were prepped, I installed them on the engine and firewall respectively. I decided to attach the remote oil filter mount on the inside passenger side firewall for ease of access and plumbing. The T junction was mounted to the underside of the dash where the AC and heating system would have been. The T itself consisted of one NPT thread with two -10 AN threaded ends. The single hose from the Accusump went into the T on one of the AN sides. The check valve was mounted on the NPT end of the T to keep the Accusump oil from back-flowing into the remote oil filter block rather than directly into the engine. The final AN line came off the T which completed the oil flow from the clean oil side of the filter, and also allows the Accusump oil a passageway to the engine in the event of oil pressure loss.
Finally, that left priming the Accusump and checking for oil leaks. I used the Schrader valve on the Accusump body to lower the precharge to 10PSI since it came pressurized higher (40-60 PSI) from the factory. I opened the ball valve on the Accusump so it would fill with oil during start-up. I overfilled my engine by a few quarts to allow the sump to accept some oil without starving the engine. My next step was to start the car. Once the sump filled up a bit, I closed the ball valve, shut the engine off, and filled the oil pan for a total of 10QTs being held throughout the entire system. This time I started the engine and then opened the ball valve on the Accusump to let it fill completely, bumped the engine to a high idle, shut off the ball valve, and turned off the engine.
When I'm just driving around town I leave the ball valve closed to the Accusump and let the engine run as if it did not have the sump system. I use the Accusump's 3 extra quarts of oil to precharge my engine before startup, after it has been sitting for a while, and even before I started the engine for the first time after the lifter, cam, and valve spring swap. Very handy piece of equipment! When drifting I leave the ball valve open for the whole event to make sure oil will be there on demand if oil pressure loss occurs.
Please feel free to comment or email me if you have any questions about my setup or it's operation. Also do not hesitate to contact Canton for any technical questions about a setup that is right for your application.
Oh..and don't forget to have fun!
07-28-2014, 02:10 AM
#3
TECH Fanatic
I have had a 3qrt Accusump in my car simce 04, have mine operated by a solenoid & switch on my steering column.
Turn my ignition on, watch my oil gadge pressure increase to around 20/25psi & start the engine, I leave mine on mostly unless I need to turn the ignition on for a time without starting the engine, then I just flick the switch off.
Turn my ignition on, watch my oil gadge pressure increase to around 20/25psi & start the engine, I leave mine on mostly unless I need to turn the ignition on for a time without starting the engine, then I just flick the switch off.