LS1 to LS6 PCV swap; should I or not?
#1
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LS1 to LS6 PCV swap; should I or not?
Hey guys, got a (not so quick) question. I've had a whistling sound coming from the engine of my '02 Z28 for awhile now. I convinced myself it wasn't any leaks or cracks (sprayed carb cleaner everywhere with no feedback), so I was planning on removing the manifold and seeing if anything in there was the culprit. I got really lazy though, and decided to just take it to a shop and have them find the cause. Turns out my PCV pipe is bad at some point behind the manifold, and needs replacing. The shop wanted $300 for parts and labor, so I told them I'd take care of it from there. However, driving home afterwards, the car did not want to to stay on, died several times, and half the time wouldn't respond to me hitting the gas. This seems like too much of a coincidence to me, and I'm thinking that when they found the problem, the guys at the shop may have inadvertently made it worse. So I need to fix it.
I've been reading up on PCV fixes and work-around for a couple hours now, and it seems my best option (well, maybe not the best, but the one I'm leaning towards) would be to do the LS1-LS6 PCV swap. I found some pretty good instructions on LS1howto (http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18). I'm still fairly new to the wrench-turning scene, and this will be the biggest job I've tackled myself so far. So I'm just wondering if this will work for me. My car is almost all stock. From what I've read, that means it has the LS6 manifold on it. I'm unsure if that means this mod is unnecessary or not. I'll feel like a retard if so, but you learn and move on.
So, any input for me?
I've been reading up on PCV fixes and work-around for a couple hours now, and it seems my best option (well, maybe not the best, but the one I'm leaning towards) would be to do the LS1-LS6 PCV swap. I found some pretty good instructions on LS1howto (http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18). I'm still fairly new to the wrench-turning scene, and this will be the biggest job I've tackled myself so far. So I'm just wondering if this will work for me. My car is almost all stock. From what I've read, that means it has the LS6 manifold on it. I'm unsure if that means this mod is unnecessary or not. I'll feel like a retard if so, but you learn and move on.
So, any input for me?
#2
Launching!
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It's a worthwhile mod. Couple this with a catch can and you won't see any oil buildup in your intake tract. Since you have an '02 you may already have an LS6 block at which point you wouldn't need to grind on the block. You are correct that you have an LS6 intake. They come stock on all 01/02 LS1 F-bodies. Don't beat yourself up. Nothing wrong with trying to get some advice on advice on here.
#3
TECH Resident
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Yes, do it, its definitely worth it. This is one mod I would do to any and all LS1's I ever get for myself. It's actually quite simple to do, just do your homework thoroughly first and take notes and pics.
Edit: btw, that "ls1howto" article tells you everything you need to know to do the swap. I used that step-by-step the first time I did it. Just be precise and careful.
Edit: btw, that "ls1howto" article tells you everything you need to know to do the swap. I used that step-by-step the first time I did it. Just be precise and careful.
Last edited by R6cowboy; 02-25-2015 at 08:25 AM.
#4
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Imo, skip the LS6 valley cover and put that money towards a good catch can. I did the LS6 valley cover swap years ago and it didn't make any noticeable difference to me, other than cosmetic. Furthermore in my experience for it to be fully effective at removing blow-by contaminates you need to have a fresh air inlet going into both valve covers.
#6
I did this mod and it was fairly simple. I was worried about having to grind the block down, but that wasnt difficult. Just make sure you use plenty of rags or towels to catch all the debris if you have to do it.
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#8
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Yeah, I just wanted him to be aware that the swap isn't a guaranteed success. I know many have had success with it, but not me I noticed basically not change. Furthermore I recommend that anyone who has done the valley cover swap route fresh air into both valve covers.
#10
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I agree with 99Bluz28
Cheap *** that I am, I plan to skip the LS6 PVC and do a DIY catch can like Thunderstruck made. Search that name and catch can. You still have to fix the hose though but before you buy any hose, take a close look at the grommet/fitting that attaches the PVC to the valve cover.
Cheap *** that I am, I plan to skip the LS6 PVC and do a DIY catch can like Thunderstruck made. Search that name and catch can. You still have to fix the hose though but before you buy any hose, take a close look at the grommet/fitting that attaches the PVC to the valve cover.
#12
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Regardless, the very best option in my opinion would be to use the newer '04+ LS6 valley cover along with a catch can. I have read many people to use the early style LS6 valley cover with a catch can, then switch to the newer '04+ style with success, ending up with much less oil in the catch can.
Last edited by R6cowboy; 02-26-2015 at 10:11 AM.
#13
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You're not a retard
Only retards don't ask questions if they don't know. Nobody here was born with complete LS know how. Agreed with the above, do at least the catch can. Newer valley cover and catch can is best.
#14
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My motor is an ls6 so it came with the valley cover and I will say it def does not solve all the issues but it is better than the ls1 before. I got a catch can to go with it though now and it keeps everything bone dry, imo get both. Also put the catch can as far away from the block heat as you can. the bumper is a good spot, the cooler temps and longer distance gets the oil cooler and catches more
#15
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Yes, the early style LS6 valley cover and newer '04+ LS6 valley cover are different and have different part numbers. The '04+ valley cover has a "built-in pcv valve" and it is known to work better than the early style LS6 valley cover with external pcv valve. They also differ in appearance, the earlier style valley cover's air/oil seperator box (the black unit attached to the underside of the valley cover) is white(ish) on the bottom, the new '04+ style air/oil seperator box is completely black with a few small holes at the very bottom.
99Bluz28, which LS6 valley cover did you have, the early style or the newer '04+ style?
Regardless, the very best option in my opinion would be to use the newer '04+ LS6 valley cover along with a catch can. I have read many people to use the early style LS6 valley cover with a catch can, then switch to the newer '04+ style with success, ending up with much less oil in the catch can.
99Bluz28, which LS6 valley cover did you have, the early style or the newer '04+ style?
Regardless, the very best option in my opinion would be to use the newer '04+ LS6 valley cover along with a catch can. I have read many people to use the early style LS6 valley cover with a catch can, then switch to the newer '04+ style with success, ending up with much less oil in the catch can.
#16
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Imo, skip the LS6 valley cover and put that money towards a good catch can. I did the LS6 valley cover swap years ago and it didn't make any noticeable difference to me, other than cosmetic. Furthermore in my experience for it to be fully effective at removing blow-by contaminates you need to have a fresh air inlet going into both valve covers.
#18
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On at car with a MAF, to some extent this is true and the required re-tune will never be exactly right. My car is SD, so there's really no unmetered air to worry about. Oh, and I ran it this way on a carbed LS engine a few years ago. Of course, there wasn't an issue with that at all.
At the very least, everyone that wants to get rid of oil in their intakes should run a catch can.
At the very least, everyone that wants to get rid of oil in their intakes should run a catch can.
#19
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The ls6 valley cover won't do much by itself to prevent oil thru the pcv line, you need a catch can (or just "filter" in my case) to make a big difference. I disagree about using the later version ls6 VC - with the earlier version you can change the pcv valve (like if it gets blocked), and the pcv valve is an actual valve not just a hole (or you could use a valve that's just a hole if you want, GM made a version like that to reduce oil consumption). Also no-one has done an actual test between the two versions on the same engine to show any difference in oil consumption, so it's all just internet blather. The later version probably just saved GM 50 cents by not having a separate pcv valve.
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Holy wow
Hey guys, sorry for the insane delay on a reply, I got pretty busy with work and life in general. First off, thanks for all the replies. I wasn't expecting so many. I decided to go with it; I know some of you said don't bother, but since my current PCV system is shot anyway, and I've been wanting to take the manifold off, I decided to do it while I had it taken apart. It was a PITA to get off, tore my hand and arm up pretty good getting at those rear bolts and hoses. I'll be looking into doing the catch can, once I figure out how it works. I'm waiting on the new VC to come in, so the car is just sitting in my parking spot for now. More updates to come. Thanks again guys.