7SEALS

Hello, last summer I installed some hooker longtube headers on my 2002 z28. It took me about a full weekend to do. I was eager to get everything done so I once I start getting things going, I never really took the time to check clearance. Well I got everything installed, and got a street tune done by a local tuner. After a little while I noticed a vibration and figured my header was probably touching something. Here is a picture of my drivers side header



As you can see its touching the lip of that black part (k member?) and also its resting on the top of it. Is there anything I can do to fix this without having to remove the header? Someone told me that if I change out my motor mounts it should fix the problem because my old mounts are probably sagging and new mounts would bring the engine up a little bit? I know doing mounts would require me to remove the headers.

So is there anything I can do without removing the header? If not, will doing motor mounts fix this for sure?

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

Motor mounts will most likely fix it but you have to remove the headers. Rubbing in that area is common you can just cut that lip off with a grinder or sawzall as many do

7SEALS

Its not only touching the lip, but its also resting on top of it as well

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

In that case then yes poly motor mounts may be the only option

7SEALS

Will that 100% for sure fix my problem? I don't want to go through pulling the headers back off if my mounts aren't the problem.

BlackDuk98

iTrader: (34)

I have run both 1 3/4 and 1 7/8 Hooker Super comps. I had to notch that part of the k-member. After that I had no problem with stock mounts. I have since changed to poly, I don't think they will fix your problem since my stock mounts were good when I pulled them and no matter what, that arear needed ground / notched.

edit: just realized that you said driver side. I had to do that only to the pass side. and only to the .5" lip. Never touched the top. Check you mounts like others have said.

7SEALS

Is there any way to check and see if my mounts are bad without pulling them first? I called my local garage and they want $300 labor to swap the mounts out for polys. I just want to make sure this is the right call before I get anything done.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

I'll tell ya right now if I had to do it again i would think long and hard about not doing the job for 300 lol. And you could try rocking the motor back and forth but mainly the rubber just sags with age dropping the engine. Mine had 100k on them and were 8 years old. The polys raised the motor up a good bit and mine didnt look or show any signs of being worn ut the headers hit and the y pipe banged on the floor. After poly's no more issues

7SEALS

I don't have any issues with my y-pipe banging. I am really impressed with how good the y-pipe setup has been as far as clearance between the y-pipe and floor, and the ground. I spent a lot of time on the y-pipe because I have heard a lot of people having clearance issues.

Would there be a way to measure from the top of my intake to the bottom of the firewall, or whatever that area is that overhangs over the intake? Could someone give me a measurement as to how close their intake is to that firewall overhang above the intake so I can compare with my stock mounts? I know there is some play there, I can put a board under my oil pan and jack the engine up slightly. Not sure if mounts really will bring it up or not.

Another question I had was do any manufactures sell poly mounts that are already inside the clamshell? My garage won't drill the rivets out of my clamshell to put poly mounts in, they just want to replace the mounts with new factory mounts. They said they can give me the clamshells to put the polys in myself and return them to be reinstalled, but would make things much quicker if there are polymounts already inside the clamshell ready to go.

n20transam

iTrader: (5)

If you decide to do the mounts yourself... You can put the car on jack stands, support the engine with a cherry picker and lower the k member down far enough to pull the mounts out. 6 bolts for the k member, the sway bar bracket bolts, and the bottom stands for the motor mounts. then you can get a wrench up there to take off the top bolts.

notch that k member too while its lowered just to be sure.

BlackDuk98

iTrader: (34)

if you are an a4, have a buddy sit in the car with his foot on the brake and shift through each gear. You will see a lot of movement with your motor. You can also shine a light and look for tears, or use a pry bar and block of wood to avoid damaging anything and see if you can get it to rock.

if they are original, it's time to do them anyways.

7SEALS

Could anyone with poly mounts or solid mounts do a measurement like this to compare with mine? The top of my intake is about 3 inches below that overhang. That is from the very top of the rib on the intake. If you could take a picture like that, or just report back how much space is between that gap would help me a bunch here. I am about to order mounts but want to make sure I am making the right decision.

6spdg37s

iTrader: (1)

I changed to poly while doing my TSP 1-7/8 install and it still touches there... going to heat it up and bend it out of the way or notch it... on my car at least if u pry it gives u enough clearance to take care of it without removing the headers

SoFla01SSLookinstok

The first picture is exactly how my hooker 1 3/4" headers contacted the subframe. I didn't have to remove the headers to replace my motor mounts. Maybe he's talking about doing it from the top? I put Spohn solid motor mounts in & that was one of the best things about it. It made the headers tuck up awesome & no more contact. I can't run a strut tower brace anymore as it will hit the intake manifold.

omarrakeen

iTrader: (2)

mine did too, had to notch the lip with stock mounts. i had polys months later and it stopped banging, car felt amazing afterwards.

02firehawkT/A

iTrader: (2)

I had the same problem with my 1 3/4" Hooker LT's.. had to take a dremel and shave some of the K-member and then it was fine.

Not trying to start anything or discourage you, just speaking from recent experience.. Hooker headers are complete garbage for our cars IMO. The fitment, the quality, everything. I recently took out the (literally) rusted out 3 year old Hooker headers from my T/A and dropped in some Speed Engineering 1 7/8".. even with the tubes being bigger the fitment is 100x better. They went in SO much easier and nothing is even close to touching. Quality and design is light years ahead of the Hookers too. Just my $.02 from having had both sets; the SE Headers are extremely affordable and stainless steel as well.