John_D.

iTrader: (2)

I'd say don't use JB Weld.

The directions said let it set for 10-15 minutes before using, so it doesn't flow so much.

An hour later and I was still chasing it out of the iac hole and the pcv hole. And it was running out of the big end of the tb too. Now it's just one thin layer, and it's still running out everywhere. Seems like the warmer it got, the thinner it got. And it was sticking to everything. My fingers, the bench, the outside of the tb. I was like the character in the old story about the tar baby....

So, now I'll have to come back with something else and finish the job. After this mess cures.

Any recommendations?

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

I bet this stuff would do the trick, no problem:

It's called Kopcoat splash zone compound. TEA has used it for years in their cylinder head ports to create different volume port sizes and it's even grindable. If they use in intake ports it must stay put

angst911

I'd say any of the metal epoxies that you have to kneed to activate...... should be in the auto parts store right next to the jb weld.... comes in a plastic tube usually.... stinks to high heavens... but works well.

felton316

I used JB weld and have been running it for about 2 years without any problem. It sanded and polished very nicely.

slyws6

I used that metal in a tube stuff that they usually sell next to the cash registers. Worked great. I let it sit overnight tho and it's grindable as well.

-Sly

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I used JB Weld because it's never done me
wrong and can take pretty high heat. But I
went at it carefully.

First, I made little foil plugs for every hole.
My first layer of JB was just a thin one, to
seal. I let it sit for an hour to tack set, and
baked it overnight in the oven. I made sure
I scrubbed the JB into the surface super
well after several surface prep cycles w/
lacquer thinner, acetone and scuff sand.

Next day, I filled the TB reliefs to level in
the best position, let it set and baked it
another night's worth.

Following day I built it proud, one more set
& bake.

This all took some time but gave me rock-
hard, fully cured JB Weld that is stuck well.

If you use the putty, you would want to
find some way of ensuring the aluminum is
as well-wetted as you can do w/ a more
initially-fluid epoxy.

slick98ta

I used stuuff called plumbers putty from Sears.
And like said above it came in a plastic tube and needed to Kneeded to activate.

Been using it for over 2 years with no problems and is under $8

Black Z/28

I used JB Weld as well. It did take some work... I inserted brass tubes instead of drilling holes. My experience with the stuff was pretty positive. I use it all the time now.

Zeta

If you use the putty style epoxy you can have work done in hours vs days with the runny JB weld. Also if you have lots of time and are used to dealing with runny sticky messes, then use the JB weld or conventional epoxies.

I have used regular epoxy for 10s of years. However, I think the putty style epoxy is so much easier to contour to the TB.