To wrap or not to wrap headers.'Tis the question
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Junction City, KS
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To wrap or not to wrap headers.'Tis the question
I had a nice set of ceramic coated shorty headers and unfortunately did some dyno pulls with them. The coating is still intact(no peeling/flaking) but they did get real dull.
1st question- Since the color dulled, does that mean that the thermal properties of the coating is no longer working or is it just a cosmetic issue.
2nd question- If the thermal protection has been compromised, would it hurt anything to wrap the headers until i can get them recoated? I have read many threads of the wrapping expediting the onset of rust/corrosion.
Any input or experiences are greatly appreciated.
1st question- Since the color dulled, does that mean that the thermal properties of the coating is no longer working or is it just a cosmetic issue.
2nd question- If the thermal protection has been compromised, would it hurt anything to wrap the headers until i can get them recoated? I have read many threads of the wrapping expediting the onset of rust/corrosion.
Any input or experiences are greatly appreciated.
#2
Teching In
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is a good read. Slightly bias from the get go but here it is: http://www.centuryperformance.com/ex...o-not-use.html
#3
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Junction City, KS
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That is exactly what i am worried about. My headers are not ruined, but at the moment i am getting ready to move and don't have the time to get them recoated. So I'm in the unique position of wrap the header and chance damage, or don't wrap and risk radiant heat damage to other engine bay components.
#4
Teching In
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What other engine bay components are you worried about? Are you running a turbo? If not, you could wrap whatever you are worried about (cables, lines, etc.) with a thermal insulator if they are close to touching. There's a lot of people running without ceramic coated headers out there.just my $0.02 bud
#5
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Junction City, KS
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not running a turbo. The two main items i am concerned with is the overall engine bay temps while in traffic/at red lights in town and the IAT temps. I know when I was in the dyno the IAT was very high and I think that has to do with the way the intake is positioned in the direct line of the radiant heat despite the hood being up and before the ceramic coating was "compromised". As many know swapping a V8 into the bay of a V4/6 is bound to have issues. LOL! I usually cruise at 180-195* but when I stop at a red light it climbs pretty fast up to 220-230*. I have 1-16in fan and 2-8in fans pulling air through.
On the other hand I could just run red lights and never stop for traffic!!!
On the other hand I could just run red lights and never stop for traffic!!!
#6
TECH Resident
My .02 is if its a daily driver, the headers will eventually rust out. The header wrap holds moisture and will rot them out. But with that said, I have my headers wrapped... My car is only driven on nice days and not in the rain.
And lastly, header wrap on ceramic isn't a good idea. It will accelerate the ceramic breaking down and flake off under the wrap.
And lastly, header wrap on ceramic isn't a good idea. It will accelerate the ceramic breaking down and flake off under the wrap.
Trending Topics
#8
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Central Florida
Posts: 12,605
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Run the fans low speed full time and you can forget the
radiant heat; convection is way more effective in heating
up the engine bay (without airflow) or cooling it (with).
This will also help your IAT, at least when running. Not
as much as relocating it, but some.
radiant heat; convection is way more effective in heating
up the engine bay (without airflow) or cooling it (with).
This will also help your IAT, at least when running. Not
as much as relocating it, but some.
#9
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Junction City, KS
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am convinced not to wrap the headers now. I have all three of my fans running off my ignition so they run from the time I turn the key on until I shut it off. I am able to toggle the fans on and off but with the temps down here running 100-105* during the day I just a leave them on all the time. Has anyone ever used some small fans near the firewall to push the heat out?
#10
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
I am convinced not to wrap the headers now. I have all three of my fans running off my ignition so they run from the time I turn the key on until I shut it off. I am able to toggle the fans on and off but with the temps down here running 100-105* during the day I just a leave them on all the time. Has anyone ever used some small fans near the firewall to push the heat out?
#11
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Junction City, KS
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Because when I cruise even at 20mph I run cool as soon as I stop my temps jump up pretty high. If I can get enough airflow through the engine bay or minimize the heat sources I will not be running so hot. It would t be so bad if I were just cruising down the highway, but when I drive in traffic through 10-15 red lights it does become an issue. I am just trying to protect the money I have invested in the build.
It may be over kill but many say that swapping a 460hp LS1 into an S10 is overkill as well. Par for course as they always say.
It may be over kill but many say that swapping a 460hp LS1 into an S10 is overkill as well. Par for course as they always say.
#12
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: My own internal universe
Posts: 10,446
Received 1,836 Likes
on
1,145 Posts
How do you do this? Can you set it in the tune or do you have to rewire the fans?
#15
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: My own internal universe
Posts: 10,446
Received 1,836 Likes
on
1,145 Posts
Thanks! I thought those were just the on/off temperatures. Didn't realize they were speed stepped.
#16
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Allentown, PA
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I can tell you from personal experience I have had 2 of my cars ceramic coated and it does ABSOLUTELY NOTHING for engine bay temps...headers are still hot as hell! I wrapped my first turbo car down and feedpipes that were JETHOT ceramic coated with heatshield's inferno wrap! BOY did that bring down engine bay temps significantly!! So you would have thought I learned and I went and ceramic coated my kooks headers and at idle with the hood closed just bakes wire insulation, temps creep up even with SPAL extreme fans!! So going to wrap these headers again with Heatshield inferno wrap. I had NO PROBLEMS with rust or corrosion like everyone saying "Dont wrap it will rust the header" BLA BLA ...folks just reading internet jargon. My pipets were T304 SS and did not have not 1 issue wrapping my turbo downpipes and feedpipes AFTER they were ceramic coated! Ceramic coating only look pretty.....header wrap (GOOD WRAP not that cheap crap) actually WORKS in keeping engine bay temps down but doesnt look as pretty. I'd rather have a safe engine bay thats not a covection oven than to be sitting there looking pretty......and burning up!