AIR/EGR Removal Help
05-13-2016, 11:01 PM
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AIR/EGR Removal Help Hey all.
Before anyone says to search the forums, I have. And found several posts. However all are almost ten years old and as such the photos are no longer linked and tend to become very-very confusing to read/understand.
As such, I was hoping someone could rectify that, if they have any pictures/guidelines/tips for removing the AIR/EGR. That'd be amazing.
I know this is a no power gain mod, I simply want it in order to clean up my bay.
If possible, I'd like to remove the actual AIR pump itself and not just disconnect everything from it and leave the pump itself just chilling out.
I know I'll have to tune out the SES light afterwards as well, that is no issue.
I'm just having a hell of time finding out where to start on this damn thing.
Any help is appreciated!
Thank ya!
Before anyone says to search the forums, I have. And found several posts. However all are almost ten years old and as such the photos are no longer linked and tend to become very-very confusing to read/understand.
As such, I was hoping someone could rectify that, if they have any pictures/guidelines/tips for removing the AIR/EGR. That'd be amazing.
I know this is a no power gain mod, I simply want it in order to clean up my bay.
If possible, I'd like to remove the actual AIR pump itself and not just disconnect everything from it and leave the pump itself just chilling out.
I know I'll have to tune out the SES light afterwards as well, that is no issue.
I'm just having a hell of time finding out where to start on this damn thing.
Any help is appreciated!
Thank ya!
05-14-2016, 03:58 PM
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It seems that a lot on here have NOT had to tune out/write out the A.I.R. DTCs after removing the WHOLE AIR system (myself included).
The AIR pump itself, and it's bracket, are easy to remove once you have the access 'flap' under the nose un-bolted from the bumper, but the car must be jacked up to do this easily, especially if it is lowered.
The AIR pump itself, and it's bracket, are easy to remove once you have the access 'flap' under the nose un-bolted from the bumper, but the car must be jacked up to do this easily, especially if it is lowered.
05-14-2016, 04:13 PM
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It seems that a lot on here have NOT had to tune out/write out the A.I.R. DTCs after removing the WHOLE AIR system (myself included).
The AIR pump itself, and it's bracket, are easy to remove once you have the access 'flap' under the nose un-bolted from the bumper, but the car must be jacked up to do this easily, especially if it is lowered.
The AIR pump itself, and it's bracket, are easy to remove once you have the access 'flap' under the nose un-bolted from the bumper, but the car must be jacked up to do this easily, especially if it is lowered.
But the tubing behind the engine is gonna be a bitch from what I can see. Any tips there?
Waiting to take off the EGR part until my block off plates come in the mail. But the check valves are doing that for me right now until those come in.
However I am already running an SES code. So will need that tuned out, just a minor annoyance though.
05-14-2016, 04:32 PM
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I just very carefully/slowly pulled the hose out from the driver's side, with the check valve disconnected from it.
The only things back there it could realistically break/disconnect are the vacuum hoses/fittings on the back of the intake manifold connected to the MAP sensor housing.
IF you yanked it out VIOLENTLY, yes, it could break the MAP sensor, cam position sensor and oil pressure sender connectors and/or tear their wires.
This is why you do this VERY gently and slowly.
The only things back there it could realistically break/disconnect are the vacuum hoses/fittings on the back of the intake manifold connected to the MAP sensor housing.
IF you yanked it out VIOLENTLY, yes, it could break the MAP sensor, cam position sensor and oil pressure sender connectors and/or tear their wires.
This is why you do this VERY gently and slowly.
05-18-2016, 09:02 PM
#5
I'm soon planning to remove my air pump too. I have also researched a good bit. It looks like there are two bolts that hold the splitter valve to the rear of the intake. Once the hoses are removed, it seems it will be easier to get to them. I haven't done this so please feel free to c I rrect me.
On the EGR, from what I have read I don't plan to remove mine until right before a tune because some settings will need to be changed in addition to turning off the code.
Good luck and keep me posted.
On the EGR, from what I have read I don't plan to remove mine until right before a tune because some settings will need to be changed in addition to turning off the code.
Good luck and keep me posted.
