gongshow71

iTrader: (1)

I finally got around to installing a few parts on my 1999 Trans Am over the last few weekends after I decided to finally install a new cam/pushrods/valve springs/retainers.

Mods getting ready for the cam included:
-SLP lid
-K&N filter
-LS6 intake
-LS6 PCV swap
-Speed Engineering 1&3/4 Longtube Race Headers 98-02 F-Body
-Speed Engineering 3" offroad Y-pipe


Speed Engineering 98-02 F-Body Stainless Steel Longtube Race Headers & 3" Y-pipe:

I was somewhat hesitant to order Chinese made headers but I also wanted to keep the price reasonable. My Trans Am isn't going to make more then 450+hp anytime soon so I figured I would just go with a "budget" header.

After reading many posts here on the forum I decided to buy these headers. I bought them from his eBay listing (1&3/4 Longtube Race Headers + 3" ORY) for 369.99 shipped to my door. The headers and Y-pipe looked great when they arrived and the welds are nice. Very well made products in my opinion. The primary collectors are truely 1&3/4.

Here are a few pictures of the headers:













I can't tell you how easily these headers slid into place. No modifications were needed to put these headers in from underneath the car. Both sides went in pretty smooth with a little force. Great clearances all around once I had them bolted up.

Although you do have to remove the spark plugs which I imagine is the case with any 98-02 F-body header.

I only had one complaint about this header + y-pipe package and that is the y-pipe and associated hardware. The y-pipe is 4 separate pieces and is held together by the supplied band clamps. The band clamps only have 4.8 grade bolts and I ended up stripping threads pretty easily. The clearance is also extremely tight with the floor pan on the driver side and it was vibrating while driving. This can be mostly fixed with an exhaust shop but it also has to do with worn out engine mounts due to the torque twisting everything around.

Fortunately, I wanted my y-pipe to be welded all together and be removable at the headers and then at the back of the merge where it meets the catback. I bought a ball & socket style flange set for the header side and then a regular slip fit + band clamp for where it meets the catback.

Here is my set up:












Positives:
-ground clearance is good. 3 inches from the bottom of the header to the ground (I'm lowered on Stranos & Bilsteins)
-slid into place easily from below the car for both sides.
-flanges were flat and sealed great with new OEM AC Delco multi layer steel gaskets
-quality product


The longtube headers are absolutely amazing and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone.

Obstacles:
-y-pipe and associated clamps/hardware
-had to cut some length off the end of y-pipe (understandable)
-vibrating/banging on driver side floor pan (can be fixed with exhaust modification and/or new motor mounts)

As far as the y-pipe goes I don't see an easy way to make it leak free while using the provided clamps and hardware. I would recommend driving it with open headers to the exhaust shop and have them weld it all up. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get it to not leak but was still having problems.

Exhaust shop advice: have them weld the y-pipe pieces together. Then use your old passenger side exhaust bracket as one for your y-pipe (picture above).
Then have them put a nut or washer between the floor pan and driver side of the y-pipe while they weld everything to create clearance so it doesn't vibrate or bang. I had them do this and it took away 90% of the issue. It only vibrates or bangs if I really step on it. The only way to completely fix it will be new motor mounts.

Car sounds absolutely amazing with the Speed Engineering 1&3/4 Long Tube Race Headers, catless 3" y-pipe, and OEM catback. After the cam install it made 386rwhp and 373rwtq on a conservative dyno. Car pulls great and no rasp.

Thanks for putting out a great product at an amazing price.

Zach-R

Good info. Thanks for sharing your experience. I have the SE 1&7/8 headers and have been most pleased with them. I did do engine mounts as well at the same time and have had no vibrations or banging.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

There is an ongoing 62 page thread on these headers here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...available.html

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Thank you for the detailed review and pictures.

I'm thinking about SE 1 7/8 headers for my TA. The sorry old Hookers are quietly rusting away. They also had 3 quality issues and cost nearly double in 2002 what the SE's cost now. My 72 vette's Hookers also had quality issues and fit issues. Hooker is on my list of companies to avoid if at all possible for headers.

How hard are the spark plugs to reach from the top with the SE headers on the car?

Despite my compalints about the TA's LS1 hookers the plugs are easier to do than when the car had the stock manifolds.

gongshow71

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the heads up. I originally posted this in LS1tech Sponsor feedback as a review but it got moved.

With the SE longtubes on the car it's easy as can be to mess with the spark plugs except cylinder numbers 6 and 8 on the passenger side (#6 is just a challenge. #8 is a nightmare to get a torque wrench on to tighten correctly). It's still easier than having stock manifolds on there but its just such a tight fit on that passenger side frame rail.

Here's a picture of the driver side with the coils and plug wires taken off to give you an idea of the room you will have:

taman86

iTrader: (19)

agreed. LT's in these cars does wonders for spark plug clearance. 8 is a pita always but less so with headers.

SlasherVRGR

iTrader: (1)

Does everyone that has problems with 6 & 8 have ac? I deleted mine completely and 6 isn't bad and 8 is easily doable for me..

2ToeRacing

iTrader: (5)

When I did my headers/Y pipe I installed plug 8 from under the car. Doing plugs on these cars suck