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TSP catted Y - rich smell

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Old 03-19-2017, 06:44 PM   #1
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Default TSP catted Y - rich smell

Just installed a TSP catted , long tubes, and a cat back. The exhaust smells pretty strong. TSP has a disclaimer that they are not made to be emissions compliant. They do not supply rear o2 bungs, so I do not have active rear o2 sensors. I thought that even with cats, I should not have much of a strong exhaust smell. I'm not sure if the car is tuned or not, but the codes have been disabled. Debating it if it's worth getting a frost tune to try and lean things out a bit and try and get rid of the smell. Does anyone have the TSP catted Y and still experience a strong exhaust smell, or do you recommend I go ahead and get a mail in tune?
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Old 03-19-2017, 10:27 PM   #2
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Just installed a TSP catted , long tubes, and a cat back. The exhaust smells pretty strong. TSP has a disclaimer that they are not made to be emissions compliant. They do not supply rear o2 bungs, so I do not have active rear o2 sensors. I thought that even with cats, I should not have much of a strong exhaust smell. I'm not sure if the car is tuned or not, but the codes have been disabled. Debating it if it's worth getting a frost tune to try and lean things out a bit and try and get rid of the smell. Does anyone have the TSP catted Y and still experience a strong exhaust smell, or do you recommend I go ahead and get a mail in tune?
If you just installed the parts how do you not know if the car has been tuned or not?
The cats you got are probably high flow cats, so not packed out like real cats so there may be some fuel smell, also the fact that you just installed this stuff so there will be some smell as anything that is on the exhaust is being burnt off.
I would get a dyno tune, will be much more spot on and they can check your air/fuel ratio, you can definitely lessen the fuel smell with a proper tune.
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Old 03-20-2017, 05:42 AM   #3
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If you just installed the parts how do you not know if the car has been tuned or not?
The cats you got are probably high flow cats, so not packed out like real cats so there may be some fuel smell, also the fact that you just installed this stuff so there will be some smell as anything that is on the exhaust is being burnt off.
I would get a dyno tune, will be much more spot on and they can check your air/fuel ratio, you can definitely lessen the fuel smell with a proper tune.
Sorry by "just" installed I mean ~500 miles ago. I don't smell the header paint or see fumes anymore from that so I'm figuring that is done burning off. I'm not sure if it's been tuned, I only know that the codes have been disabled.
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Old 03-20-2017, 05:53 AM   #4
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Sorry by "just" installed I mean ~500 miles ago. I don't smell the header paint or see fumes anymore from that so I'm figuring that is done burning off. I'm not sure if it's been tuned, I only know that the codes have been disabled.
This is what im not understanding, you are not telling the whole story. Did you install the exhaust yourself or some shop and they deleted the codes? Or did you buy the car this way and not sure if the previous owner tuned it?
How do you know if its tuned or not? - you need to ask whoever turned off the codes if they tuned it as well.
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Old 03-20-2017, 06:01 AM   #5
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I bought it this way. Long story short I myself replaced an off-road x and race headers with headers with emissions bungs, catted Y, and cat back for Maryland inspections requirements. The previous owner bought it with the x pipe and codes already tuned out. He didn't know either. At this point it's a total guessing game until I get a tune.

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Old 03-20-2017, 09:46 AM   #6
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cyberd0rk,

I had the same problem as you. I ordered the tsp catted pipe, and it smelled like poison at every stop.

The fix is likely your front o2 sensors not reading any voltage, making your ecu think that your car is running lean. The ecu then uses more gas to try and fix the lean, but ends up making your car super rich(bad smell).

Check your obd2 scanner. If you have codes :
P0151: O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P0131: O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Your front o2 sensors might need replacing. I bought two Denso 234-4617 from amazon, and my smell went away/

If you have the torque app, and bluetooth obd2, you can actually monitor your o2 sensor voltage in real time to verify my suspicions.
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:01 AM   #7
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I assume I would be getting a check engine light with these codes, correct? I ordered two used o2 sensors off of ebay to meet MD inspections requirements which thankfully only verify visually that they're on the car, not activated. Maybe I'll switch those around and see if I get lucky and they act better (doubtful since they were used). Damn near choked myself out sitting in the line for the emissions testing this past weekend. Passed thankfully since the computer has codes tuned out. Anyone with a nose could smell that the vehicle isn't passing emissions if it had to do a sniffer test.
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:10 AM   #8
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Sometimes those codes will appear as "pending faults" and will not trigger a service engine light. I got a frost tune a while back, thinking that it would solve my issues, but it did not. All he does is delete the rear o2 sensor fault codes(regarding o2 sensors).

I would order the o2s from amazon since they have a great return policy, and it fixed my tsp catted y pipe rich smelling problem.
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:17 AM   #9
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Alright, won't argue with a cheaper alternative that could solve my problem. Thank you for the help.
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Old 03-20-2017, 12:45 PM   #10
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Now that I think about it, the car became noticeably stronger smelling after I decided to try Seafoam "Top Engine Cleaner". Perhaps all of the burn off fouled out my o2 sensors.
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Old 03-20-2017, 06:42 PM   #11
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Be sure to update us!
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:12 PM   #12
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Be sure to update us!
Just ordered 2 through Walmart of all places. Went with the long wire model just to avoid and unforeseen problems. Crossing my fingers.
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Old Yesterday, 01:18 PM   #13
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O2 sensors are kind of helpless when you move to
long tubes (which would be why the TSP Y in the
first place). Fresh ones will go sleepy in short order.
Then your fuel trims come up and also, O2 feedback
becomes super slow meaning your mixture swings
wide all the time at idle and low pedal. Cats can only
work when you have a nice finely chopped soup of
CO, O2, NOX to work against each other. Full time
lean or rich, and they got nuthin' to break down the
bad bits with (and a whole lot of one kind of bad bits).

It's too damn bad nobody makes NBO2s with more
heater power so they could work right in a cold tube.
Though I have seen some folks declare success from
gapping open the slots in the "thimble". Might look at
wrapping the collector near the sensor to cut the
close-in heat shedding but all of this is only incremental
measures.
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