ws62001ta

im looking for some more bolt on stuff and see that asp pullies and slp are the same price but not the same package, um which will give me better results? and about how long does install take for a 17yr old?

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

Hope you have a "pulley puller" and torque wrench....if not let a shop do it...by the time u buy both of those you could of had it installed for 50$ less.

if you have those with no experience what so ever and have no knowledge at all.....wont take more than 2 hours......if you cant do it that fast....hmmm...well...

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I'd go with ASP, they are known for making awesome pulleys, while SLP makes MANY parts with mediocre quality.

Also, I'm 17, it only took me about 45 minutes, but I had to remove the pulley for the cam swap, so I knew what I was doing.

LS1LT1

iTrader: (16)

ASP

It's not too bad if you have the proper puller...just be careful, that's your crank you're messing with there.

robertbartsch

Go with the stock pulley

z98

I wouldn't buy SLP if I could help it. About the only product they make that I like is thier d/d exhaust.

What does that have to do with anything? This install will seem overwhelming for people with little car experience.

I know some 17 year olds who were swapping 350's into S10s, and I know some who can't change their oil. So it depends.

Or you could just rent them for free at Autozone. You can even do the swap in their parking lot (actually done that multiple times, an alternator, water pump, and a steering wheel, all on seperate occasions!).

With the alt and water pump, I didn't want to have to drive all the way back for the core charge, and the steering wheel was because I didn't want to drive back to give them back their puller. Also, the installs were in a truck, I wouldn't swap the water pump on my LS1 in a parking lot, would take for freaking ever.

Aftermarket pullies pretty consistently give 1 mph in the 1/4 and a few hp too.

The only way I'd do a pulley swap is if was doing the cam at the same time.

*hint hint*

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

maybe you all could explain this to me...im kinda confused...ok from all the write-ups ive read you unscrew the crank bolt almost all the way, but then stop and use a puller????? wouldnt that strip the last few threads? Why not just unscrew it out?

CamTom12

iTrader: (1)

the puller uses on the head of the bolt to get the pully off. The bolt just passes through a hole in the pully, it only screws into the crank itself. Pulling the pulley off around the bolt won't strip anything. (wow... too much 'pull' )

The only time I ever took mine off was my cam install as well, but I just put the stocker back on. Make sure you check the crank threads so there's nothing in there to gall up on your ARP bolt and rip the threads off (yeah, its interesting to see what a little metal flake can do to such a well engineered bolt. I wish I'd have at least blown the hole out with compressed air or something. It would have saved about 8 hours and lots of hassles (plus hassles I haven't even dealt with yet).

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

you know what..i get it now..sorry, i just couldnt picture it.. thanks for clarifying .

also, why do you have to torque it down to 240 let it lose then to 76(think thats the # of the top of my head, i do have them somewhere) and then turn 140 degrees? whats the point of that?

CamTom12

iTrader: (1)

You use the old bolt to torque it down to 240. This seats the pully against the crank. Then you take the new bolt and put it in. Torquing to the first number gets the bolt ready to stretch, and the 140* stretches the bolt so it will hold the torque against the threads in the crank.

No worries!

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

cool thanks again!

ws62001ta

ok so should i even invest in pullies then, are they worth their 12hp gain?

boondiggys

iTrader: (165)

they help your engine to rev faster ,not sure about 12hp faster but maybe 1 or 2 tenths in the quarter...id say for $200 put it towards a 100 shot

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

I would get them...after i got them i could tell a huge difference on bottom end...Id say grab the ASP.....Do N2O later...IMO

Casperws6

i had the worst experience doing a cam swap. everything went well until the new crank bolt went back in. It went it but the pulley didin't go back where it was supposed to be at and we torqued it down to 250. than we tried to take it out and redo everything but the bolt wouldn't come out, even with an impact gun of 650. i had to pay 350 to have a shop take it out cuz it took so long. i'm paranoid about that. by the way the bolt was stripped at the end of the bolt. sorry. didn't mean to steal the thread. just wanted to post that