xxtinktFormula

Whats up . Here a slight seal dicovery that may or may not work you, but it did for me...

I have the QMP lid and FTRA and recently I had noticed that my lid looked a little more well-fitted on one side versus the other. What was wrong was that the tabs on the underside of the filer tray had easily settled into the base (as it is supposed to) on the passanger side but not the driver's side. No biggie, right? so I made sure that the tabs were in the on both sides of the base. The lid fit flushed and the way it was supposed to but I noticed slightly less power from a roll to a punch than when the tray was raised more on the driver's side from the tabs not being all the way in the base! What I did as a test was run black duct tape around the under lip of the filter tray to prevent the filter tray from sliding all the way into the base, pressing the filter tray and filter more against the lid. I re-insated the intake assembly (Which was tight as hell now with the tape added) and accelleration was quicker due to the better/tighter positive seal.

Just thought I'd share the info. Every bit helps, right?

Tom99SS

iTrader: (2)

Are you using the K&N foam gasket that is suppose to be applied to the Air Lid to assist in sealing? Just curious as I have the same air lid and when I open it up my K&N is partially stuck to the air lid for a tight seal.

-Tom

xxtinktFormula

Yeah, I'm using the K&N gasket. But I see where you are coming from. I'm not talking about the air lid itself, thats fine. I'm referring to the removable tray that the filter sits in itself. Flip the tray upside down and you''ll see grooves where tabs on the base/radiator support slide into. All I did was put duct tape over the grooves on the tray so that the tray and filter sat higher than before. The tape doesnt allow the tray to sink into the support as much. So when you clamp the lid back on you'll find that it is tighter. I'm assuming it would improve the seal for non-FTRA setups too.

LS1LT1

iTrader: (16)

Cool, I have an extra K&N gasket laying around in case I needed to replace my old one...I might just add it on there on top of the old gasket to give a similar effect. And/or I might try your trick as well.

Also, what about trying to seal off the base a little better, I have FRA and I still have the front slot on the air box open (aka: the old stock air inlet) and was thinking of trying to seal it all up completely, any tricks to this or is just time to get busy with the foam tape?

2000WS6Vert

Where can you purchase a replacement gasket? The former owner of my car didn't have much luck installing it.

LS1LT1

iTrader: (16)

Just call K&N, they will sell ya one real cheap I bet.

xxtinktFormula

I sealed up the base/radiator with duct tape too. I also taped up the mouth of the stock intake where the the supplied rubber seal strip goes that came with the FTRA kit. I found that the one that comes with the kit is not 100 percent air tight. Might as well help it out with some tape.

Procircuit155

iTrader: (1)

If you have the SLP lid do you still need to use the K&N provided gasket seal?

SmaknaSS

iTrader: (1)

I did.

Procircuit155

iTrader: (1)

SLP told me yes i need to use the seal and the person i bought the lid from said no? The seal was on my stock lid and wouldn't come off.

daryl2cb@yahoo.com

iTrader: (2)

I have no seal on my SLP lid, and I don't think its nessary, I have to almost stand on it now to get it to latch, I couldn't imagine If I put the seal in like I did on the stock lid. Also SLP has a strip the seals up the gap in the front of the air intake.

Procircuit155

iTrader: (1)

Yea, the SLP lid is a pain to close w/o the seal. What are you guys doing as far as sealing up the air pump hole in the lid when doing non-emission headers.

daryl2cb@yahoo.com

iTrader: (2)

call SLP they have a plug they sent me one at no charge.

xxtinktFormula

Recent update: I just changed to the SLP, and boy is it ever a superior product all the way around! The QMP is plain sad when comparing the quality and I'm sorry I ever bought it. With the QMP, I had a small crack that ended up snapping the lid, creating an air leak. I had to trash it. The SLP has a MUCH tighter/better fit (no trick needed, I see what you guys mean). They do make the same power, but the SLP seems to be a much more rigid, heavy duty, and well designed product. which I dig. I am much happier.

BlkZ28LS6

iTrader: (1)

Just get the lid as tight and as far down as it will go to prevent the lid from scraping the underside of the hood.

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

your *** is alot more sensitive than mine if you can feel a difference from a little crack in the lid