psykoTA

iTrader: (4)

Hi here is an idea I have. I havent been able to find anything like this. How well would it flow? would it even sound like true duals? I don't really want to spend $700 on GMMG, and true duals dumped-I dont want right now. This seems like the cheaper way to do true duals over the axle.


Ok, starting from the manifolds/headers, High flow cats (using 2.5" pipe), the pipes will form a Y, but not merge together instead they will route side by side in the same location the stock single pipe would, then a set of sweet thunders side by side, to a flowmaster merge collector which will go into the stock 3" pipe over the axle, on the other side of the axle another flowmaster merge splitting into two 3"tailpipes. So the over the axle pipe would be the X-pipe. What do you think? Can you see any problems with this? And all this would only cost me around $500 or so. Sorry for the long post.

Thanks everyone.

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

The only problem I see with this is the x being so far from the headers.

psykoTA

iTrader: (4)

What would happen? it still would be balancing the exhaust pulses right? Even though the exhaust gases have had time to cool. Would it even sound like true duals?

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

It's not an X and no it wouldn't sound like duals. You are actually merging the sides together and then seperating them again futher down the line, much like the inside of the stock or any catback. Your smashing the two gases together and they collide in the pipe (crappy Y pipe sound) with the pressure relief being too far down to do anything. It would be a more effective flow if you went with a single 4" up and over but it still won't work like an X. The purpose of the X is to inducing scavenging and balance the pressure while crossing over and mixing the gas do to its siamese design. If you ever look inside of an X the cross section is about 1.5 times the size of the pipe. For 3" its 4.5". Your idea would be still a Y pipe and then you just splitting it near the rear, plain and simple. If you were going through the trouble to do the duals toward the passenge side you should just go up and over with dual 2.5" pipes. They will fit, check out Spped, Inc. They have an inhouse kit but you can check out the images on their site. Or you can go dual 3" with a BMR upper panhard relocator kit. I would then put the X under the tunnel and then just go back.

psykoTA

iTrader: (4)

Damn, thats a much better idea. Speed inc has an inhouse kit, I didn't know they sold a kit. I am going to check it out.
I edited my questions.
Ignore those last questions. I just visited your website, I will definitely be calling tyson and seeing what he can do for me. I also would like stainless, that would be great if he could fab a true dual setup over the axle for me. Is it still possible if I have SLP SFC's?

matts22

iTrader: (2)

It's not really a "kit", it is an in-house, custom made and installed for each individual car. Just making sure you don't think you can order it and install it yourself.

Has anyone on this board actually had Speed Inc. install a true dual over the axle exhaust for them? Any pictures besides the one on their website? Does anyone know if it is mandrel bent?

NewTADriver

and plus isn't it preferred that you put a chambered muffler as close to the tips as possible?? I've heard that they sound horrible when they arent done like that....anyone correct me if i'm wrong.....

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

I would definately call Tyson since you are in VA. He can do anything. Make sure you tell him Kev from NJ sent you, LOL. A full Stainless system WILL be expensive but I think its worth it if you are keeping the car and have the money, just my opinion.

Correct, before I got mine I did alot of research, and when I asked them they said its and "in house" install only built to the car
Actually 99% of the setups I've seen have them before the rear and then dumped or over the axle.

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Hey Blaster, you still enjoying your new exhaust? I still think the Edlebrock 304's are the best sound around. I like the idea of the 2 pipes running side by side under the passenger side of the car. Seems to have the most room there. Don't know who's cars these belong to, but it's giving me some ideas when I get my headers installed. It's along the same idea Lane is installing I think.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Blaster

Does your tunnel brace run under the X? It appears that way in your pics on cardomain. Did you attempt to fab a brace to tuck the x up even further? And am I correct in observing you beat the rear seats in to accomodate the edelbrocks?

Thanks, my motor, tranny and exhaust are off the car so I'm thinking of BFH to the rear seats while I'm waiting to fix the rest in anticipation of going duals.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

I like it alot. I like the Edlebrock; they are a quality muffler. Noone really had them (I searched and could'nt get any substantial info) so I said "what the hell". I just put the magnaflow 4x9s on my truck and did a custom 304ss cat-back with a Magnaflow Tru X and I like that sound as well. Both are really great mufflers. The tru X is a really excellent piece. My car is very jealous but it wouldn't have fit good under the Fbod.

Running both pipes along the passanger side is a great option and provides a easy up and over solution to going out the rear. Only problem is you are really restricted to bullets or chambers. You might be able to do a pair near the tips but I think it would be hard. I wanted some real mufflers.

Good questions. My X runs under my lakewood and I have a hanger attached to it as a "just in case hanger". I wanted to build it around the DS loop first and centering the X in the middle of the car would have been the worst clearence so Tyson and I moved it into the tunnel right under where the Lakewood forms its upside down V. I was hoping (later on) that the stock tunnel brace might fit but my X just hangs too low. I'm kicking myself now for not trying it (had the damn brace there with me) and seeing if I could get the X up higher but I believe it would have to be narrower to get that high in the tunnel. I might be able to get some longer bolts and use some washers as standoffs but I would rather just get a piece of 1/8" stainless plate and make my own.

Actually I have some nice clearence (on the car frame side) with the mufflers and I don't think we had to dent in the rear seats all that much be oh well, it can always be banged back out. Good Luck!

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

where you beat the rear seat pans in under the car, are you able to see it inside the car?

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Only if you were to remove the rear seats.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

It looks like they are running the Magnaflow X setup. Is there any benefit to that X as opposed to the Summit/Flowtech X (2 90* mandrel bends welded together)?

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

The magnalflow X has a very big crosssection and is actually a top half welded to a bottom half. The junction is hard to explain. I extends alot further than the oval you get from putting the 90 together. It looks like a flat plate in the shape of an "hour glass" was manipulated and molded to form half of the X on the top and then another one for the botom so you get the volume in between the legs as well. It is really cool how they did it. I just uploaded some pics of the one I used for my truck. Here's what I am talking about. Enjoy!

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

hmm... interesting.

So you'd say this is more effective for the most power?

How well would it work if you're not running the exhaust over the axle?

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

I think it would be more effective but sometimes space is not accomodating and a custom one will do. It would work either way, only thing with dumps is the benefit of getting the exhaust out faster and it being lighter.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Blaster

Are you running magnaflow's X-pipe on your car or Stainless Works?

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Stainless Works X on the car
Magnaflow on the truck