Is the ARP crank pulley bolt worth getting?
11-11-2004, 01:18 PM
#1
Is the ARP crank pulley bolt worth getting? Reason I ask is because Ive had to buy a OEM bolt about 3 times now crank pulley and cam swaps. Im getting ready to do another cam swap and will need a new bolt and was wondering if I should get the ARP bolt because who know how many more times Im going to have to take the crank pulley off. The ARP crank pulley bolt is reuesable right? Do you think I should continue to buy OEM ones or buy the ARP?
11-12-2004, 02:20 AM
#6
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Originally Posted by BlackBeaSSt
What exactly does this mean?
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11-12-2004, 09:37 PM
#9
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the arp crank bolt is reuseable why would anyone buy it if it wasnt haha
and its is not torque to yield you torque it down to a certain amout and thats it
and its is not torque to yield you torque it down to a certain amout and thats it
11-17-2004, 10:51 AM
#14
Originally Posted by BlackBeaSSt
"I'm glad I did It's also a torque to yield bolt so you don't have to mess with torque angle's."
What exactly does this mean?
I'm using one now, I've always used ARP balancer bolts (with Loctite blue) in other engines and they've never failed or loosened.
11-17-2004, 11:07 AM
#15
Ive never had an OEM bolt fail or become loose, but the whole reason for me making this thread was to ask if I should buy the ARP bolt so that I can stop wasting my money on OEM ones. I think Ive already been through like 4 and theyre 3 bucks a piece. I know for sure Im going to need another one, so what I was wondering is if I should stop wasting my money on new bolts every time one comes out or if I should buy the ARP and never have to worry about it again, if...its reuseable.
11-17-2004, 12:47 PM
#17
Let me build your car for you Jeremy YES use the ARP bolt! It is personal preference and a couple of these guys gave you there experiences with them witch means they recomend them to anyone wanting a higher quality piece other than the factory bolt. And as for not having any issues with the stocker most people haven't including me I have and ARP bolt but haven't used it so it is up to you, but if you need some one to backy you up and say YES buy it then here I am I'll tell you BUY ONE! They are great and will give you and extra 100hp. Good Luck man like I have said in the past just make up your mind and do it.
11-18-2004, 04:25 PM
#18
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Here's a way to figure out the answer for yourself. How much is the ARP crank bolt? How many times do you think you'll take off the crank bolt over the next few years?
ARP bolt = $
Stock bolt = $3 x how many times you think you'll change it.
Which equals less money? Go with that route.
ARP bolt = $
Stock bolt = $3 x how many times you think you'll change it.
Which equals less money? Go with that route.
11-19-2004, 03:11 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by crainholio
This means he doesn't exactly know what he's talking about, or he left a word out. The ARP crank bolt is not torque to yield.
I'm using one now, I've always used ARP balancer bolts (with Loctite blue) in other engines and they've never failed or loosened.
I'm using one now, I've always used ARP balancer bolts (with Loctite blue) in other engines and they've never failed or loosened.
Sorry, been Deer hunting haven't been on for a while, I must of been typing fast than I was thinking and I don't type fast
. The stock bolt is torque to yeild and my instructions with my arp bolt say to torque the bolt to 240 ftlbs also use their lube under the haed and on the threads. Sorry for the confussion. 