Why won't my car start on the first try anymore?
#1
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Why won't my car start on the first try anymore?
Lately, whenever I try to start the car. It never catches the first time. It turns over, I stop, and when I turn the key the second time. It fires right up. It started doing this about 2 weeks ago now. I just now figured that this may be tied in to why the car randomly bogs down when I'm tryin to accelerate.
Has anyone else dealt with this? Any info?
Has anyone else dealt with this? Any info?
#4
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Originally Posted by Tranzaman00
Fuel pump going bad maybe?
If it is determined that your pump is going bad, check the NEW PnP RACETRONIX 255gph pump kit instead of replacing it with a stock one.
Also when was the last tune up (plugs etc...)
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Mike, had the same issues right before I left, but here is what I noticed. Hop in the car, turn the key to the run position wait just a second or two, and then crank to start. I noticed if i hop in and immediately crank (whichI didnt realize i was doing til well into the troubleshooting) it wouldnt start right up, and sometimes would idle crappy for a bit. Maybe the same your experiencing maybe not.
Charlie
Charlie
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I have that exact same problem right now, and so does another one of my buddies....I've heard of the VATS system going bad causing this.....not sure to the truth of it.
I have a new Walbro 255lph that's pushing out plenty of fuel, so I doubt it's that.
I have a new Walbro 255lph that's pushing out plenty of fuel, so I doubt it's that.
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Originally Posted by verbs
I have that exact same problem right now, and so does another one of my buddies....I've heard of the VATS system going bad causing this.....not sure to the truth of it.
I have a new Walbro 255lph that's pushing out plenty of fuel, so I doubt it's that.
I have a new Walbro 255lph that's pushing out plenty of fuel, so I doubt it's that.
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I replaced the fuel filter two weeks ago..
I also installed a Walbro 340 about 3 months or ago now.
The pump is definitely priming when I initially turn the key.
I did some searching, and I think that I might have contaminated the connector for the Crank position sensor. After putting the car back to stock, I forgot to reinstall the oiltube dipstick before I started the car. Everything in the region of the starter got covered with oil.
-Well at least I'm hoping those connectors getting oil on them may be my problem. I read another post where this happened. I'm gonna clean everything up this afternoon. If this isn't the case, I'll check on the FP regulator.
I also installed a Walbro 340 about 3 months or ago now.
The pump is definitely priming when I initially turn the key.
I did some searching, and I think that I might have contaminated the connector for the Crank position sensor. After putting the car back to stock, I forgot to reinstall the oiltube dipstick before I started the car. Everything in the region of the starter got covered with oil.
-Well at least I'm hoping those connectors getting oil on them may be my problem. I read another post where this happened. I'm gonna clean everything up this afternoon. If this isn't the case, I'll check on the FP regulator.
#11
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I had the same problem when I installed my 255 lph in tank. The pump was brand new, but it would not start on the first try. The second try, however, fired right up. This happened every time, not hit or miss. Ended up, the check valve was bad in the pump not allowing it to hold pressure. I determined my problem by hooking a fuel pressure gauge up. When you keyed the ignition, the pressure would jump to where it was supposed to be, then bleed off. The pressure is supposed to hold steady. Get a gauge and check it. It only takes a minute and you'll know for sure. This was on a BRAND NEW pump, so anything is suseptable to faliure.
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Originally Posted by Beast96Z
I had the same problem when I installed my 255 lph in tank. The pump was brand new, but it would not start on the first try. The second try, however, fired right up. This happened every time, not hit or miss. Ended up, the check valve was bad in the pump not allowing it to hold pressure. I determined my problem by hooking a fuel pressure gauge up. When you keyed the ignition, the pressure would jump to where it was supposed to be, then bleed off. The pressure is supposed to hold steady. Get a gauge and check it. It only takes a minute and you'll know for sure. This was on a BRAND NEW pump, so anything is suseptable to faliure.
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Originally Posted by Beast96Z
I had the same problem when I installed my 255 lph in tank. The pump was brand new, but it would not start on the first try. The second try, however, fired right up. This happened every time, not hit or miss. Ended up, the check valve was bad in the pump not allowing it to hold pressure. I determined my problem by hooking a fuel pressure gauge up. When you keyed the ignition, the pressure would jump to where it was supposed to be, then bleed off. The pressure is supposed to hold steady. Get a gauge and check it. It only takes a minute and you'll know for sure. This was on a BRAND NEW pump, so anything is suseptable to faliure.
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Update on my starting and bogging problems..
Found the problem in 15 min this morning.
Connected fuel pressure guage onto the fuel rail. Powered up the pump, and the pressure went up to 26PSI and immediately dropped off. I opened the access hole that I cut during my Walbro 340 install.
The fuel line on the pump was completely swollen and disfigured. It had small hole towards the top, and the clamp on the top had started to cut into the line.
I went to Napa and purchased some high pressure / fuel injection hose. $16.99 for 24".
After swapping out the bad line, powered the pump up. 54 PSI and it held steady.
The car runs strong as hell now. We scanned the codes before repairing the pump, and the were P0171 and P0174 if I remember correctly.
Thanks for all the help.... The Z is alive once again..
Connected fuel pressure guage onto the fuel rail. Powered up the pump, and the pressure went up to 26PSI and immediately dropped off. I opened the access hole that I cut during my Walbro 340 install.
The fuel line on the pump was completely swollen and disfigured. It had small hole towards the top, and the clamp on the top had started to cut into the line.
I went to Napa and purchased some high pressure / fuel injection hose. $16.99 for 24".
After swapping out the bad line, powered the pump up. 54 PSI and it held steady.
The car runs strong as hell now. We scanned the codes before repairing the pump, and the were P0171 and P0174 if I remember correctly.
Thanks for all the help.... The Z is alive once again..
#16
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Awsome!
FYI, a Racetronix pump harness should give an extra 4 psi (I think).
Perhaps you should contact them and find out. It got my Racetronix PnP pump kit from 58> 62 psi. (about $100)
FYI, a Racetronix pump harness should give an extra 4 psi (I think).
Perhaps you should contact them and find out. It got my Racetronix PnP pump kit from 58> 62 psi. (about $100)
#18
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Originally Posted by Z28Venom
Found the problem in 15 min this morning.
Connected fuel pressure guage onto the fuel rail. Powered up the pump, and the pressure went up to 26PSI and immediately dropped off. I opened the access hole that I cut during my Walbro 340 install.
The fuel line on the pump was completely swollen and disfigured. It had small hole towards the top, and the clamp on the top had started to cut into the line.
I went to Napa and purchased some high pressure / fuel injection hose. $16.99 for 24".
After swapping out the bad line, powered the pump up. 54 PSI and it held steady.
The car runs strong as hell now. We scanned the codes before repairing the pump, and the were P0171 and P0174 if I remember correctly.
Thanks for all the help.... The Z is alive once again..
Connected fuel pressure guage onto the fuel rail. Powered up the pump, and the pressure went up to 26PSI and immediately dropped off. I opened the access hole that I cut during my Walbro 340 install.
The fuel line on the pump was completely swollen and disfigured. It had small hole towards the top, and the clamp on the top had started to cut into the line.
I went to Napa and purchased some high pressure / fuel injection hose. $16.99 for 24".
After swapping out the bad line, powered the pump up. 54 PSI and it held steady.
The car runs strong as hell now. We scanned the codes before repairing the pump, and the were P0171 and P0174 if I remember correctly.
Thanks for all the help.... The Z is alive once again..
So what on to the tracks this fri. weekend.who knows firebird 13 might show up.good job Mike.
#19
hey whats up i just recently bought a 97 LT1 with 156000 miles and same **** has been happening it wont crank the first try i checked the pressure changed out the pressure regulator but didnt help the psi goes to about 45 and then slowly drops down.. it takes about 5 secs to start up and ideas what it might be??? fuel pump??
#20
I have similar problem and need help: Yukon Denali 2004 fuel pressure is immediately on 60 psi, after 2 or 3 seconds I hear a click, a relay de-energizes and the pressure drops immidiately to 0. Any idea please? It seems fuel pump is creating pressure just fine. As soon as I re-turn ignition key (not starting), relay comes on, pressure is immediately back to 60 psi, after 2 to 3 sec same thing, drops to 0 immediately.