Who runs or has run the ZO6 Maf? Come in!
12-22-2004, 10:43 PM
#1
Who runs or has run the ZO6 Maf? Come in! Just wondering if anyone has any personal experience with the Z06 Maf.. i was thinking about changing my Maf and i heard the Z06 MAF is easier to tune with.. Anyone have any dyno numbers once they changed it? Should i just keep my stock MAF even with having the LS6 intake? I know i'm going to get jumped on about using the search.. but i couldn't seem to find any dyno numbers with them.. thanks guys! 
12-22-2004, 11:13 PM
#2
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You can't find Dyno #'s because you get a small gain from the mod and no one want's to spend the cash to test it out. I have one. I think it is worth it and have had no problems at all. The only issue I see is the plastic part with the "Delphi" logo on it sticks up quite a bit and if you arent carefull will have a scuff mark on it the same color as the under side of your hood. You have the right idea. There are some expensive ones out there for the same thing. The strange thing is It is supposed to be a Z06 MAF but mine came in a Granatelli box. Anyway...get it. It is well worth the $200 or less and it takes 5 minutes to install. Have fun!
12-23-2004, 01:44 AM
#3
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you'll get a higher gain from puttin a cutout in front of the crapmaster muffler than you will from the MAF 
get the Z06 if you must get a new maf, it has the known tables. however, the stock MAF is good to ~650rwhp, so i doubt you're in danger of maxing it out with current mods in sig. many people with the 90mm FAST intake setup still run the stock MAF. no need to swap out just for the ls6 intake.
get the Z06 if you must get a new maf, it has the known tables. however, the stock MAF is good to ~650rwhp, so i doubt you're in danger of maxing it out with current mods in sig. many people with the 90mm FAST intake setup still run the stock MAF. no need to swap out just for the ls6 intake.
12-23-2004, 09:23 AM
#4
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Keep the stock MAF! This is coming from someone who has a 85mm LS6 MAF. I only switched to the LS6 MAF because my stocker died at 10K miles and it was recommended to me by my tuner. For the amount of $ spent you might gain 1-2rwhp over the stock one and may I emphasize might! The LS1 has a 75mm throttlebody so there is no sense getting a larger MAF until you can feed the extra incoming air into a larger throttle body. The LS6 MAF has totally different tables than the 75mm LS1 MAF and is actually harder to tune with, unless you get a calibrated one for the LS1. Messing with the MAF is just asking for problems and 9-10 people on here will tell you to leave it alone!
12-23-2004, 10:17 AM
#5
[QUOTE=cyphur_traq]you'll get a higher gain from puttin a cutout in front of the crapmaster muffler than you will from the MAF
haha i do have a cut out.. and i know that my muffler doesn't flow for crap.. but it sounds pretty good and its quiet for daily driving..
Well i have the LS6 intake.. but i also plan on getting a ported polished throttle body.. So will it be better if i have the Z06 Maf and the ported polished TB? Or should i just forget the MAF completely? thanks for the response guys without bashing me about searching!
haha i do have a cut out.. and i know that my muffler doesn't flow for crap.. but it sounds pretty good and its quiet for daily driving..
Well i have the LS6 intake.. but i also plan on getting a ported polished throttle body.. So will it be better if i have the Z06 Maf and the ported polished TB? Or should i just forget the MAF completely? thanks for the response guys without bashing me about searching!
12-23-2004, 01:05 PM
#7
Why are you guys going to the 85 mm MAF's and then back? Details!! Did it run like ****? Where can I get a stock one anyway? Just a dealer? My MAF is going to hell also and I need to buy something! I've been looking at the SLP since it is the most affordable? Also is the ZO6 MAF just a stock one from a ZO6? I can never get a consistant answer on the screen no screen debate. My car is a H/C car with a TSP lid, LSX, Jantzer TB, smooth bellow, !baffles in the hood, so as you can see it likes to breath!!! I need one soon so help me choose!
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12-23-2004, 10:24 PM
#9
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I had a Granatelli and my car ran like crap. I put the stick one back in and it ran fine. I'm pushing 415 to the wheels and it has'nt given me any problems.
12-23-2004, 11:39 PM
#10
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my granatelli caused the car to run rich(made power but caused codes), put factory back on. I might go with LS6 MAF cause im getting FAST 90/90 soon.
12-24-2004, 09:28 PM
#11
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I run the Pace 85MM MAF. Never had a problem with it. Also, FMS tuned my car with it once I had my cam installed. No problems there either. I am happy with it. But then again...I have found MAF's are hit or miss with our cars.
Donnie
Donnie
12-25-2004, 12:13 AM
#13
Any good tuner should have no problems with the 85mm Z06 (also truck) MAF. We use them on every car here. As long as the tuner has the tables for the MAF to load into the PCM during tuning, there will be no problems. If he doesnt have the tables, and tries to tune around having no tables, that is what will cause the problems. You can't just swap MAFs without telling the PCM the new values it needs to know.
12-25-2004, 08:54 AM
#14
Originally Posted by Tim @ EADPerformance
Any good tuner should have no problems with the 85mm Z06 (also truck) MAF. We use them on every car here. As long as the tuner has the tables for the MAF to load into the PCM during tuning, there will be no problems. If he doesnt have the tables, and tries to tune around having no tables, that is what will cause the problems. You can't just swap MAFs without telling the PCM the new values it needs to know.
12-25-2004, 11:24 AM
#15
Originally Posted by a98ws6
Where do you get the tables? If I went with the Pace one or ZO6 one, how would I tell my tuner what tables?
The Pace one is supposed to be calibrated to LS1 tables. I ran the pace one on my old 408 motor and I had no issues with it at all using LS1 tables.
12-25-2004, 11:29 AM
#16
Another problem that I have seen before is if you tune with your stock LS1 maf and it is dirty, it will throw the calibration off. A good tuner can see that the calibration is off, but most will just tune around it, then when you swap out your MAF, you have one with a good calibration and it will throw your tune off since it was tuned with the 'dirty' MAF.
I usually see dirty MAFs caused by too much oil on K&N filters and Volant kits. The oil will stick to the wires on the MAF and screw it up. You can take rubbing alcohol and a QTIP and gently clean it off, but I would recommend just getting a new one.
I usually see dirty MAFs caused by too much oil on K&N filters and Volant kits. The oil will stick to the wires on the MAF and screw it up. You can take rubbing alcohol and a QTIP and gently clean it off, but I would recommend just getting a new one.
03-23-2005, 11:14 AM
#17
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I was running one until my ses came on in a 90 degree summer day after some spirited driving. Had some autotap the car and my lt's were a plus 19 and 22 at wot. I have a slp too and that works fine but running stock now.
03-23-2005, 04:06 PM
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Here's what you do. Log your MAP readings across
a WOT run and look at the difference between what
you see at 6000RPM and what you see at 3000RPM.
Or better yet, what you see just before ignition.
Less than 0.2PSI MAP drop, work on the exhaust, heads,
cam first. More than 0.2PSI, work on the MAF and TB
(but do the TB first). 0.3PSI means that your entire
intake lineup costs you 2% max of your potential HP.
How hard do you want to chase a 1% problem when
you can get 10-20%-range improvements elsewhere?
Other than that it's on the cheap end in absolute terms.
I've run the SLP MAF, i've ported it and recalibrated it
(cut-and-try resistor values), I've got a descreened truck
MAF on now, and I couldn't say any of it's made any big
difference.
But I know the front pipe is as good as it's gonna get. For
what little that's worth, on a stock h/c car. And I see 0.1-0.2
PSI MAP drop on hard pulls.
a WOT run and look at the difference between what
you see at 6000RPM and what you see at 3000RPM.
Or better yet, what you see just before ignition.
Less than 0.2PSI MAP drop, work on the exhaust, heads,
cam first. More than 0.2PSI, work on the MAF and TB
(but do the TB first). 0.3PSI means that your entire
intake lineup costs you 2% max of your potential HP.
How hard do you want to chase a 1% problem when
you can get 10-20%-range improvements elsewhere?
Other than that it's on the cheap end in absolute terms.
I've run the SLP MAF, i've ported it and recalibrated it
(cut-and-try resistor values), I've got a descreened truck
MAF on now, and I couldn't say any of it's made any big
difference.
But I know the front pipe is as good as it's gonna get. For
what little that's worth, on a stock h/c car. And I see 0.1-0.2
PSI MAP drop on hard pulls.
