HELP! Hooker LT post-install- BAD MISSFIRING, 02 codes, no power, running pig rich!!
02-22-2005, 11:51 AM
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HELP! Hooker LT post-install- BAD MISSFIRING, 02 codes, no power, running pig rich!! I think I wore out the "search" button today...
Installed my hooker LT's over the weekend, and I have a slew of problems that I'll list.
Driveability Issues:
Car has very little power, flat on its face all across the rev range- missfiring like a bitch
Wants to idle at 600 rpm stumbling very badly
Running pig rich (used 5 gallons of gas to go a little over 30 miles)
...Upon further inspection:
Exhaust leaks on the driver's side at the gasket, and at the passenger header collector where it's band clamped to the ORY (very badly at the collector- exhaust is visibly exiting in large amounts there)
Plugs and wires have been checked and re-checked 3 or 4 times, and there is good clearance between the primaries and the wires, nothing looks burnt or f-d up.
Codes I'm throwing (the six that were stored):
P0300 (x2) Random/Multiple Cylinder Missfire
P0405 (x2) EGR sensor A circuit low (we removed the EGR completely)
P0134 H02S Circuit insufficient activity bank 1 sensor 1
P0135 H02S Heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1
Obviously, I need to solve the leaks. Does the bank 1 02 sensor sound like the culprit of making the car run really rough?
What else should I look to try and troubleshoot? This was my first header install, and I really need to work out the kinks!!!!
Installed my hooker LT's over the weekend, and I have a slew of problems that I'll list.
Driveability Issues:
Car has very little power, flat on its face all across the rev range- missfiring like a bitch
Wants to idle at 600 rpm stumbling very badly
Running pig rich (used 5 gallons of gas to go a little over 30 miles)
...Upon further inspection:
Exhaust leaks on the driver's side at the gasket, and at the passenger header collector where it's band clamped to the ORY (very badly at the collector- exhaust is visibly exiting in large amounts there)
Plugs and wires have been checked and re-checked 3 or 4 times, and there is good clearance between the primaries and the wires, nothing looks burnt or f-d up.
Codes I'm throwing (the six that were stored):
P0300 (x2) Random/Multiple Cylinder Missfire
P0405 (x2) EGR sensor A circuit low (we removed the EGR completely)
P0134 H02S Circuit insufficient activity bank 1 sensor 1
P0135 H02S Heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1
Obviously, I need to solve the leaks. Does the bank 1 02 sensor sound like the culprit of making the car run really rough?
What else should I look to try and troubleshoot? This was my first header install, and I really need to work out the kinks!!!!
02-22-2005, 01:12 PM
#3
When you say that you checked the plugs, make certain that you visually check them when the car is running. I had 2-3 plugs cracked at the base of the porcelin and the car stumbled and ran just like you are experiencing. If the car has run that rich now, you probably have fouled a couple plugs as well.
I would swap the O2's to make certain that is the culprit, then clear the pcm, change all of the plugs on the driver's side (bank 1) and then start from scratch and see if that solves your problems.
I would swap the O2's to make certain that is the culprit, then clear the pcm, change all of the plugs on the driver's side (bank 1) and then start from scratch and see if that solves your problems.
02-22-2005, 01:17 PM
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Well, if memory serves me correctly, sensor 1 is on the driver side. You stated that you have a leak on the driver side at the gasket. Since that leak is upstream from the o2 sensor, that can cause the sensor to be inaccurate possibly...hence your air/fuel could be way out of wack which would be making the car feel like it has no power. Also, it is possible that the o2 went bad. Could try swapping it to the passenger side to see if the codes move to that side. I am not sure if the o2 could cause misfires or not. I know you said you have checked the plugs and wires several times, but it is so easy not to get the wires all the way onto the coil packs and plugs (especially the ones in the back). I always listen for them to click twice when putting them on. I am sorry I don't have more info to offer, I will think on it some more for you.
P.S. I also agree with the above, check for cracked plugs.
P.S. I also agree with the above, check for cracked plugs.
02-22-2005, 01:38 PM
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Got to fix the leaks, first off. Any fresh air reversion
in through the leaks will bend the o2s' sensed mixture.
Next, you need to get the EGR action tuned out. If the
PCM still thinks EGR is there it will over-advance and
misfuel you at light throttle (EGR-car spark maps have
a big hump of excess spark where EGR is active).
O2s are unhappy as a rule in long tubes. Coated helps,
higher wattage heaters helps. Might as well try the 'vette
rears, they may not totally solve things but as far as I
have seen they're the best thing available.
Headers probably upped your actual olumetric efficiency
but nobody told the VE table. So lower-RPM will probably
be a bit misfueled on the speed-density side. On the MAF side
I think you have way too much voodoo crap on there (GMAF,
MAFT and K&N? Welcome to "WTF is wrong with my mixture?").
Stick with the GMAF if you must but my recommendation
would be a cheap used truck MAF, descreened, and have the
tuner put the appropriate table if you want 85mm hardware,
otherwise a descreened stocker. In either case you could probably
sell off the GMAF and MAFT to cover a good part of the tuning
cost, if you can't find someone local with HPTuners to help you
out as a freebie. I suggest ditching the K&N for a paper filter,
for personal hygeine reasons. But paying the witch doctor to
unhoodoo your triple hoodoo setup, plus the new mojo, seems
like extra work, time is money (your money) etc....
in through the leaks will bend the o2s' sensed mixture.
Next, you need to get the EGR action tuned out. If the
PCM still thinks EGR is there it will over-advance and
misfuel you at light throttle (EGR-car spark maps have
a big hump of excess spark where EGR is active).
O2s are unhappy as a rule in long tubes. Coated helps,
higher wattage heaters helps. Might as well try the 'vette
rears, they may not totally solve things but as far as I
have seen they're the best thing available.
Headers probably upped your actual olumetric efficiency
but nobody told the VE table. So lower-RPM will probably
be a bit misfueled on the speed-density side. On the MAF side
I think you have way too much voodoo crap on there (GMAF,
MAFT and K&N? Welcome to "WTF is wrong with my mixture?").
Stick with the GMAF if you must but my recommendation
would be a cheap used truck MAF, descreened, and have the
tuner put the appropriate table if you want 85mm hardware,
otherwise a descreened stocker. In either case you could probably
sell off the GMAF and MAFT to cover a good part of the tuning
cost, if you can't find someone local with HPTuners to help you
out as a freebie. I suggest ditching the K&N for a paper filter,
for personal hygeine reasons. But paying the witch doctor to
unhoodoo your triple hoodoo setup, plus the new mojo, seems
like extra work, time is money (your money) etc....
