Noy_Z_LS1

iTrader: (1)

My car won't start, it won't even crank and it doesn't even click when i turn the key. It was out of nowhere too. I haven't done any mods in a few months. It has been running and starting great up until i went to start it and this happened - completely out of the blue.

There was a little corrosion on the positive terminal, I cleaned it all off, and even replaced the battery (had it tested and it came out bad). When the new battery went in, it started up and i let it idle for about 10 minutes. About 45 minutes later I went back out to leave and now it is doing the same thing again.

I was thinking it could be the alternator, but when it was idling the new battery was showing 14.31V across the terminals. As it sits now it shows 12.34V. But the weird part is, my interior lights and guages and stuff were stuttering/dim for a while, now they don't even do anything.

Anyone have any ideas? Right now it is sitting in a shady *** parking lot by a hotel. I was offered drugs by 2 different guys while working on it, so the quicker I can get it out of there the better. TIA

Z28Venom

iTrader: (13)

Check the resistor on your key. If that isn't making contact, you'll get the exact symptoms that you have.

Make sure that it isn't worn down or loose.

Noy_Z_LS1

iTrader: (1)

I don't think that's it. I have an aftermarket alarm, and the lock solenoids were acting up when I pressed the "arm" key, plus the interior lights don't come on anymore when I open the door with the key out of the ingition. The key doesn't look worn down, but I will try my other key when I go back.

Thanks though

8-Pack

ignition switch? Does anything happen when you turn the key to the run postion, like the radio/fuel pump coming on, if not but your headlights and horn work all the time then thats my bet.

Noy_Z_LS1

iTrader: (1)

yea...I don't think it's the ignition switch either because it started right up after I put the new battery in. This blows.

1STGEN68-2000SS

You have a bad battery cable connection. check all the cable ends for corrision. If you have a test light put it on the positive cable at the battery and have someone crank the engine if the test light goes out while they are still holding the key on touch it to the+ battery post, if the test light comes on the problem is at the cable connection.It may look good but the extra draw of you cranking the engine will make it loose connection.
Alan

1fstGM

iTrader: (13)

It could also be a bad alternator connection. This is assuming your alternator is good, if not it is your alternator. Try another battery and if it starts right up take off the positive terminal. If your car shuts off it is your alternator or a bad connection around the alternator. Might be the probelm. It happened to one of my friends. He had a bad connection to the alternator. The one that plugs in at the top of the alternator. Oh yeah when you try to start the car you are probably going to need another battery because that one probably got drained. Not even jumper cables would give my friends battery enough juice to kick the motor over.

It also could just be a ground somewhere.