Stang_Killa

I have long tubes and have got rid of the converters but still of course have the front o2's. They went out when i put the headers on. What is the best and cheapest 02 sensor???? thanks

blkZ28spt

Best and cheapest are things that almost never go together. Bosch part #13111 seems pretty popular and is what I went with, available at autozone.

PS: Search button would answer your question.

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

Ain't that the truth.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

After chewing through a few Bosch 13111's from autozone, im planning on trying the denso's which are supposed to hold up better.

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

I have and like the denso O2s. Been inthe car for over a year and no problems.

HBHRacing

there area lot of times when non OEM parts work great. Electrical is not one of them. Get yourself some new AC delcos and never look back. Bosch are junk, NGK's are junk, Nippon denso are "ok" standard motor products are "ok" but the only ones that never give me trouble are AC delcos. you can find them pretty cheep on GMparts direct or from dal or jason cromer.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Sorry, but in my experience, new ac delcos died faster after my long tubes than the bosch did.

777

iTrader: (21)

He wouldn't know because he doesn't have LT's. That sucks if you have had to try all of those 02's as well.

HBHRacing

I don't "try" them. I only use delco in my car. However in my lifetime I have installed 02's in probabaly close to 40 GM vehicles. When they want it done right I put delcos in. when they want it done cheep it's usualy standard, when they bring there own it's usualy Bosch.

I would like anyone that has had them "fail" to actualy tell me how they failed and how you know that they went bad. you do know that ANY 02 will become contaminated after a coated header install if replaced sooner then about a month of driving right?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Sure, the ones I replaced a month or two after my coated headers were the stockers that came with the car. I replaced them with a/c delcos. Those went bad again in a matter of a month. I then replaced with bosch, and got codes again in a month on one of them. I exchanged that one under warranty at autozone and then those were fine for 5 months throughout the winter. Now im getting codes again. In every case, its insufficient switching codes. The code follows the sensor if i swap them side to side.

Edit: Also, Ive tried cleaning with the propane torch, usually only lasts a few days. There is no white or green oxidation so I dont think they were poisined. I do not have any RTV anywhere in the exhaust. Header gaskets are GM. I dont have any exhaust leaks. My LTFTs are spot on.

HBHRacing

What brand of coating was used. I have seen some that never fully cured and keep eating up the sensors. I have also seen the heaters fail, when coupled with the better flow of the exhaust and no heater they can't reach the 650 degrees that they need for the zichronium (sp) to become conductive. This is usualy worse at highway speeds. This would account for your activity codes. there has also been some speculation as to turbulent flow based on the location of the 02 in the collector but I have never seen enough evidence to confirm it.

My point is this. The delcos are designed for our cars. While non OEM replacements might be "close" they are not exact. I can't begain to tell you how many times people have changed 02's them selves and then come to us when the codes reset. after a full diagnostic the only answer that I have is a bad 02. They don't belive me since they just replaced it. After installing delco sensors they never come back. bosch is the worst at this. they are also one of teh most commonly available sensor out there to the general public. A lot of Bosch are also "universal" and the connectors have to be reused, the wires trimed etc etc. Thats never good.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Im running jethot headers. My exhaust afterwards have changed from time to time for what its worth. I have not used a universal sensor, otherwise my splices would be suspect.

Do you suggest going with the rear vette sensors in a f-car?

HBHRacing

I have seen it happen with jet hots befor a few times. It's almost like a bad batch was sprayed and never cured with the heat. in one case (on an LT1) they sold the jet hots and put on a set of coated hookers (that were also jet hot coated), let it cure, swaped new 02's in about 1.5 months later and was fine for years.



As for the rear vette swap, I would really have to look into it some more. To be sure I would pretty much have to do some independent testing but my theory would be stronger heating eliments which can aid in the sensors peformance by getting it hot sooner and keeping it hot longer. remember, you need 650 degrees or more or the sensor will no longer become electronicly conductive. The better your exhaust flows the faster the gasses run and the cooler they become.

I'll look into the vette seneor some more and maybe I can give a better idea of my thoughts.

blkZ28spt

I'm pretty sure that when I searched to decide on what to do with my bad sensors, the vette rear O2's did indeed have stronger heating elements.

HBHRacing

I am trying to figure all that out. I was on Delfi's site earlier trying to find detailed specs but I need to cross the GM part number with the delfi one to get anywhere. I have had some computer issues that I have been fixing other wise I would have come up with something by now. I'm still looking into it

BrandonSS

iTrader: (1)

You are correct in your own way. The OEM o2 is designed for our stock car... not LTs. Unless you know of a stock LS1 with OEM Long Tubes. I dont. And your example is of your car w/o long tubes. I also burnt through a few pairs of the AC Delco o2s. I am now on a pair of Bosch 13111s, as stated above.. made for the vette. We'll see how long these last with my LTs.

Also, I do agree with you on the universals. I would never install a universal on my car. Just seems like more to go wrong with the crimps, connectors, etc. Granted, the factory does this anyway, but still not my idea of what i want.

I also question the truth about the o2 being "made for our cars". My guess is the o2s operate in ranges... like universal A will work with 1-3, universal B works with 4-6, universal C works with 7-9, etc. They probably find the one that works, pull it out of the bin, and label it as the right one. If there is factual information that says otherwise, I will glady retract my doubts and insert foot in mouth.. more of a curiosity than anything