00RedWs6

What are you other guys running with pacesetter longtubes? Ive been noticing some clanking at certain speeds and stuff. Well the clearance between the drivers side y SUCKS! Its hitting the floorboard. I know this is possibly causing some KR, on my dads TA the exhaust banging was causing 5 degrees of KR. What Y pipes are you guys running with Pacesetter longtubes and not banging the floor? Thanks

Brian

MM98

iTrader: (13)

I had the same problem with mine.. I took mine to an exhaust shop & had them heat up the driverside header, right at the collector & just pulled down some to get clearance.. It helped out pretty well, but i do get an occasional knock on hard acceleration... But before it would hit the floorboard at idle because of the shitty clearance plus the rough idle of the cam.

-Mike

4mula

just about all y pipes no matter who makes them bang the floorboard.
mufflex sells a spacer to fix bang or you can heat up the pipe to fix it.

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

The pacesetter is gonna have the best clearance between the floorboard due to the flat spot in the pipe. The TSP pipe is adjustable meaning that the driver side is 2 pieces that can be twisted to angle the pipe downward geting it away from the floor. That just gives you clearance problems with the ground then.

List of MUST DO thing for f body exhaust.

1. Poly motor mounts

2. Cut away the reinforcment on the floorpan behind the header where the y pipe, or even your front leg of you x pipe runs.

3. If you still get banging, use some hangers to brace the front part of the system.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Took off the Y pipe and heated it up on the drivers side where you could see that it had been hitting the floor board and bent it in.. This got rid of the banging except on a hard shift..you can fab up a spacer\hanger to keep it from hitting..any good exhaust shot can make one cheeper than the one from Mufflex ($40)..ALL Y pipes will bang the floor boards..you have to work on all of them to solve this problem.

AaronR

iTrader: (8)

Get duals,thats the easy solution.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

But NOT nessarilly the answer...much louder and mucho $$$ expensive if you run them out the back..I have never heard a dumped at the axles TD that was not too loud...I prefer to hear the stereo..plus I am out late and have to travel through small towns with Barney Fife wannabes in them to get home...don't need the hassel..I like them to be loud when you put your foot in them and mellow when you are just cruising..its called flying under the radar.. ...my LTs w\o cats 3 in Y pipe that runs back to a Borla works well for me..and it has NO RASP...on top of that it tucks up nice and tight under the car...the SFC's are the lowest point on my car..if I want real loud I can open up the cutout...I could spend a bunch on TDs out the back and maybe pick up 2 to 5 HP..not a good return for the $$$ spent in my book...you can make the Y pipe work just takes a little modification on it..thats what we are all doing anyway..moding right..

fasttagurl

iTrader: (12)

I have Pacesetter LTs, no cats, and true duals. It is the most baddest sounding car I have ever heard! BUT, the true dual system will give you about 1 1/2 inch ground clearance, about half way down a coke can to give you an idea. Air flow is better this way, although I have scraped the bottom several times already. Better HP, though. Good luck!!

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

I like the way that TDs sound but they do not fit my lifestyle..but I get a lot of compliments on the way mine sounds too...

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

Let me clear something up. There is nothing different about true duals and a y pipe from the merge forward so clearance is the same on the driver side no matter what you have.

skywalkrNCSU

iTrader: (3)

i have a tsp y pipe and it sucks to put on

i had to take it to a shop and get them to fab it up so it would fit. they had to cut 3 inches out of it and weld in some pipe here and there. overall i wouldnt ever suggest it.

HOSS

iTrader: (12)

i put a tsp pipe on, fit great, slid it on the headers, unbolted the rear exhaust hangers, pulled it back, slid it in the rear of the y pipe, bolted the hangers on...no welding, no leaks...