Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

ok i got my pulley off and now the new powerbond pulley wont go back on enough to use the old crank bolt to thread .. ive even tried wacking it with a hammer a few times and no luck any suggestions????

ps: search feature is down and i need help asap

-thanks
john

Bluehawk27

My March unit was the same way. ASP pullies have a small lip that lets you fit it on and then thread on your crank bolt. But with ours you have to use either the longer bolt from ARP, or a member on here sells some stock rod that is the correct size with a washer and nut. Once you have pressed it on enough with that, you can slap on your new bolt.

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

make sure you have proper pulley alignment when its all done to help prevent belt throwing.

Redneck Z

iTrader: (3)

If I was you, I would get a longer crank bolt. Using a stock length crank bolt to seat the pulley is a great way to strip out your threads. That's one preventable problem I wouldn't want to deal with.

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

i hammered the pulley bolt with a piece of iron pipe and a hammer while it was on the pulley this allowed me enoughroom to thread the bolt and the rest was easy.... the only qiestion i have now is i spent like 30 min and used a good impact wrench to tighten up the pulley and it just seems i could always get a bit more turning out of it if i pressed with al my might is this normal i already tooke the car out and did a few runs with no probs just dont want something to pop up later

Redneck Z

iTrader: (3)

Thats the problem with using an impact wrench. The only way to know for sure if you are doing it right, is to follow the instructions and torque it to (36 ft. lbs?) and then try and turn in 140 degrees? I can't remember exactly, but with an impact wrench you aren't going to have any idea if you are close to the specifications. At this point I'd probably just use a breaker bar and torque it until it stops turning.

Bluehawk27

I agree with you here. Most people think its impossible to get the 140*, but i just put a big *** 4' lead pipe on the end of the wrench and pounded it around the wrench so it's snug. That made it a whole lot easier.

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

36lbs? **** i know its alot tighter than 36 lbs its gotta be over 100 lbs of tq on it i mean i was bracing my self with the swaybar and grunting it but it still moves

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

i impact wrenched it for a few min then hand torqued it

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

You initially torque it to 36 ft/lb and then turn it another 140*. That extra 140* comes out to about 240 ft/lb I believe.

Redneck Z

iTrader: (3)

QUOTE: 36lbs? **** i know its alot tighter than 36 lbs its gotta be over 100 lbs of tq on it i mean i was bracing my self with the swaybar and grunting it but it still moves

Not 36 ft. lbs. period. 36 ft. lbs., then turn the bolt 140 degrees, which is alot more than 36 ft. lbs. Once again don't quote me on this, I can't remember exactly.