anti sway bar rubbing on crank pulley
07-27-2005, 08:26 PM
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Crank pulley and anti-sway bar rubbing together??? what would cause this? how much clearance is there supposed to be between the pulley and the sway bar?
Update: I just got out from under the car and my BMR k-member is the culprit! On the drivers side where the front bracket for the lower a-arm attaches to the k-member the welds separated. There are three pieces of metal that are welded together to create the mount and there is just one corner still intact. Where the welds broke the metal is separated. My question is, can I safely weld those spots back together or do I need to purchase a new k-member? Also what would you recomend for a daily driver because this isn't really ment for that.
Update: I just got out from under the car and my BMR k-member is the culprit! On the drivers side where the front bracket for the lower a-arm attaches to the k-member the welds separated. There are three pieces of metal that are welded together to create the mount and there is just one corner still intact. Where the welds broke the metal is separated. My question is, can I safely weld those spots back together or do I need to purchase a new k-member? Also what would you recomend for a daily driver because this isn't really ment for that.
Last edited by scifone; 07-27-2005 at 11:06 PM.
07-28-2005, 04:00 PM
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This is something I've worried about with mine. If you can
get the weld redone, and maybe over-strapped and
gusseted for a little (or a lot) more strength, OK. Never
liked the look of the T-welds. I wouldn't expect it to turn out
well if you try to do it in place, though; have to drop the
K to get it jigged up right & tight I expect, plus the difficulty
of getting at all the angles that need it. I'd be looking
for someone with structural welding experience I think,
not Joe Muffler.
What vintage is this K-member? Got any pics of the fail
point? Want to see if it's the same as mine, or "before
they improved the design" as they've claimed.
get the weld redone, and maybe over-strapped and
gusseted for a little (or a lot) more strength, OK. Never
liked the look of the T-welds. I wouldn't expect it to turn out
well if you try to do it in place, though; have to drop the
K to get it jigged up right & tight I expect, plus the difficulty
of getting at all the angles that need it. I'd be looking
for someone with structural welding experience I think,
not Joe Muffler.
What vintage is this K-member? Got any pics of the fail
point? Want to see if it's the same as mine, or "before
they improved the design" as they've claimed.
07-29-2005, 01:15 PM
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Well I went to my uncle's shop this morning and sucessfully welded the k-member back together. We found the longest clamp he had and pulled the lower a arms on each side together. We got it back in place perfectly and grinded off the powdercoating and welded it back together.
Those are the only spots on the whole k-member that is spot welded. Everywhere else there is a continous bead. I will advise anyone else with this k-member to fully weld the rest of those spots. The passenger side was splitting a little bit as well. Once the welds cooled off we sprayed some rubberized undercoating to prevent rust.
I didn't have a chance to get pictures so sorry about that. I will try and explain it as well as possible. There is a bar that runs from the right side to the left side on the bottom of the k-member. At each end of this bar there is a boxed mount for the frontmost mount on the lower control arm. That boxed mount is what failed. The side of the mount that is attached to the lowest bar on the k-member separated from the rest of the mount. This in turn allowed the drivers wheel to move outward about a 1/8 inch. It toed in my tires and wore down the outer edge of the tire considerably.
If those weak points are welded fully there would be no other weak point on the k-member. I drove the car home right afterwards and it didn't pull to either side one bit. Im very happy with the repair job and I have no worries of this failing again. Any questions are welcome.
Robby
Those are the only spots on the whole k-member that is spot welded. Everywhere else there is a continous bead. I will advise anyone else with this k-member to fully weld the rest of those spots. The passenger side was splitting a little bit as well. Once the welds cooled off we sprayed some rubberized undercoating to prevent rust.
I didn't have a chance to get pictures so sorry about that. I will try and explain it as well as possible. There is a bar that runs from the right side to the left side on the bottom of the k-member. At each end of this bar there is a boxed mount for the frontmost mount on the lower control arm. That boxed mount is what failed. The side of the mount that is attached to the lowest bar on the k-member separated from the rest of the mount. This in turn allowed the drivers wheel to move outward about a 1/8 inch. It toed in my tires and wore down the outer edge of the tire considerably.
If those weak points are welded fully there would be no other weak point on the k-member. I drove the car home right afterwards and it didn't pull to either side one bit. Im very happy with the repair job and I have no worries of this failing again. Any questions are welcome.
Robby
