300bhp/ton

I guess there's two sides to this.

1. Dyno gains - As with probably all dyno's they have pretty crappy simulated airflow over the car. So the heat soke may be greater within the engine bay, and cool air duct will likely be directing warmer air than when actually moving. Has anyone just done back to back dyno runs with the only change being the TB bypass and seen any gains (or loses)?

2. SOTP or ET's - The intake air flow must move pretty quickly thru the TB when the car is moving, plus the intake air temperature is likely to be quite cool (ambiant or slightly warmer). So would there be enough time for any significant heat exchange from TB to air flow occur? Anyone got any data to back up or contridict any dyno proven bhp gainlose?

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

This is a very well asked question. I too am curious about this. I know its a cheap mod but if it does absolutely nothing then why do people even bother?

8-Pack

Well for one it makes removing the TB easier. Also it takes almost no time/money so you really dont have anything to lose.

BOONE

iTrader: (4)

The little stuff is definitly worth it, especially this one. Cooler air is always good, it all adds up.

Nitro725

Im sure it does have a positive affect.
something I am wondering. I ahve heard cooler air is better, then why hasnt anyone tried pumping ice water through the bypass for a run or dyno. Im sure with 30-40 degree water it will bring down the iat some.
I was thinking about trying it

300bhp/ton

But is the air in the TB long enough for any signifcant heat transfer. I wonder if any one has ever measure intake plenium temps with and without the bypass to see if it has any significant affect at speed?

300bhp/ton

I think there may be a few problems with this.

1. (see post above), is the air in the TB long enough to make any odds, whether trying to heat or cool the air?

2. Where would you get the cold water from?

The only way to make it colder than ambiant would be via a cooler, aka air con. Yet the power required to drive such a system would likely negate any benefit from increased charge density.

ssrunner

I would think that the bypass would make some measurable difference. Before I did mine you COULD NOT touch the TB after even a short operation time; it got VERY hot. Now that I've done the bypass I can put my hand on the TB and hold it there since it's only slightly warm after a LONG stop-and-go drive, so the temperature reduction is significant.

Mr. Trick

iTrader: (19)

Where can I find instructions to do TB bypass mod?

JustAnIlluzion

iTrader: (60)

search

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

By my calculations, I gained about 40 RWHP and 50 RWTQ from this one mod alone. It was almost as good as the tornado I installed right after that.



I don't think this mod really does much of anything...as said, the air really doesn't stay in the TB area long enough to have any appreciable affect on the air temp coming in to the manifold (at least not in my mind). Logging some data yesterday, my IATs were 160+ for a few minutes after just starting the car up. If you want to get some power back, you'd be better of getting some cooler air into the intake tract sooner.

As has also been said, it makes taking of the TB a breeze...that alone was worth it to me, and why I'm still glad I did it.

rollinna65

iTrader: (18)

It can't hurt and only cost a few bucks so why not do it?

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Well, technically it COULD hurt if you were in a cold enough place where your TB froze...the engineers at GM didn't put it there for ***** and giggles.

777

iTrader: (21)

Throttle Body Bypass

snake charmer

iTrader: (118)

i belive someone on a local board actually did this mod at the dyno, i belive there was a 3hp difference this could also be gained from just cooling off the engine. i read about a while back it was bo white who did it while trying to figure out how much of a gain from a stock tb to one of his ported tbs.

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

Yes. I'm not sure on the LS1 but this guy here did it on his LT1 and picked up 6.3 hp and 7.1 tq.

TransAm12sec

Yes the first reason it was put there was to prevent the throttle blades from freezing open. If the temperature is below freezing and your rpms keep going up, shut the motor off immediately. Older carbs used heat from the exhaust manifolds for the same reason.

Because these cars must be designed to be driven year round in all 50 states, this (coolant through the tb) is needed from the factory. If your car is never started below 32 degrees F, you don't need it.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

It doesn't necessarily have to be above 32 degrees...I actually did this mod when I lived in Colorado Springs, and it had many cold starts in the winters there. I don't know what the limit is though, but I'm not too willing to find out. The engine compartment stays fairly warm, and I think that's what keeps it from freezing without the coolant going through it.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Who cares. Nothing wrong is going to come from it if you do it. IMO, the biggest reason to do it is so you can pull the TB on and off in seconds rather than minutes.

Crazy Man

iTrader: (6)

It cost like a freakin $1 to do it. So even if it dosent do anything you wont be losing harldy any money plus like they said the tb will be alot easyier to unhook...