spark plug replacement on a ls1
09-24-2005, 12:39 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
spark plug replacement on a ls1 about 6 months ago i remember reading a thread telling in detail how to replace the plugs (easiest ways and routes to em)...cant find it now....anyone have suggestions or maybee knows where that thread is???
09-24-2005, 01:21 PM
#3
TECH Regular
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: GARDEN GROVE, CA
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
www.installuniversity.com is the link. Click on install and then scroll down to spark spark replacment. The first time I changed my plugs I followed this and it took me 6 hrs working in the dark though. The last time it took me 1hr 45 mins total without moving the coil packs. I used a 3/8 swivel extension that made the job 100 times easier.
09-24-2005, 02:08 PM
#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Lake Anna, VA/ Fairmont, WV
Posts: 1,795
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you have larger forearms and don't want to look like you've been strangling a cat then I usually remove the coil packs just to make it easier and less painful.
09-24-2005, 08:06 PM
#6
TECH Addict
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Live Oak, FL - in the woods where the creatures lurk.
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1,3,5,7 easy as pie.
#8 from the bottom is super easy. (on ramps)
#6,#4, remove the rubber hose from the AIR check valve and bend the tube from the check valve toward the front gently.
#2, well, just go after that sucker
Headers , if you have them, do make it easier.
Moving the coil packs is good, but I never bothered (got sharp little f'n points on them,though).
Checking plug gaps, anti sieze on plugs, dielectric grease inside boots, refreshment breaks, actual plug change, 'bout an hours time for me.
Recommend a shortie 3/8" ratchet, short "wobble" extension, good 5/8" plug socket (with rubber inside to grab/cushion the plug).
And it ain't the time it takes, it's the attention to detail.
#8 from the bottom is super easy. (on ramps)
#6,#4, remove the rubber hose from the AIR check valve and bend the tube from the check valve toward the front gently.
#2, well, just go after that sucker
Headers , if you have them, do make it easier.
Moving the coil packs is good, but I never bothered (got sharp little f'n points on them,though).
Checking plug gaps, anti sieze on plugs, dielectric grease inside boots, refreshment breaks, actual plug change, 'bout an hours time for me.
Recommend a shortie 3/8" ratchet, short "wobble" extension, good 5/8" plug socket (with rubber inside to grab/cushion the plug).
And it ain't the time it takes, it's the attention to detail.
09-24-2005, 09:48 PM
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: ATX
Posts: 1,625
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Remove the hose on both sides, remove coil packs on back 2 on pass side or rail if your car has one(mine's a 98 and doesn't). Might need a cheater bar on your ratchet for back pass side. Looks a lot worse than it is. Just take your time and don't overtighten. Don't forget the antiseize so it's not another battle next time. 
Also, either get a spark plug socket with built in swivel, and buy a nice assortment of swiveled extentions. You'll need at least one for the pass side.
Also, either get a spark plug socket with built in swivel, and buy a nice assortment of swiveled extentions. You'll need at least one for the pass side.
