Those with home-made true duals....come inside
#1
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: FL
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Those with home-made true duals....come inside
Any advice for making my own home-made X-pipe setup? I have Pacesetter LTs with 3-bolt collector flanges.
I ordered from Jegs:
3" to 2.5" flanged reducers
2.5" universal X-pipe kit
2.5" Dynomax bullets
2.5" turndowns
I planned on getting everything bolted up/clamped together, with hangers at the rear seatbelt holes, tack-welding the slip-fits, taking the system off, and then welding everything completely.
Is there anything else I would need besides hangers?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
I ordered from Jegs:
3" to 2.5" flanged reducers
2.5" universal X-pipe kit
2.5" Dynomax bullets
2.5" turndowns
I planned on getting everything bolted up/clamped together, with hangers at the rear seatbelt holes, tack-welding the slip-fits, taking the system off, and then welding everything completely.
Is there anything else I would need besides hangers?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
#2
12 Second Club
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 983
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
iv actually made 3" trueduals for a buddies 97. we bolted it up, put all the pipes on jackk stands where they needed to be, then tacked them. took everything off and welded it up. didnt take long at all. i also did the same thing for my '68
#4
12 Second Club
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I made a 2.5 kit for my SS a while back, seems like you have everything needed, you may want to look into a heat shield of some sort for the fuel lines, when I did mine, I wanted them tucked up high because at the time I was lowered, so the pipes were close to the fuel lines, I used some stuff my dad had in the garage, it some sort of a heat wrap, you could use header wrap if you wanted to wrap either the lines or the pipes.
#5
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: FL
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a bunch of header wrap that I never used....so I'll use that. Thanks
Also, if it's THAT close to the floorboard, it will probably smack it when the engine torques, so I might flatten that pipe a little bit.
Also, if it's THAT close to the floorboard, it will probably smack it when the engine torques, so I might flatten that pipe a little bit.
#6
12 Second Club
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 983
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by MattZ28
Thanks. What parts did you use exactly? What headers does he have?
#7
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Vertigo
Posts: 955
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can 'flip' the fuel lines on the brackets to get more clearance. A must for duals. Just flip the two fuel line brackets(in the DS tunnel), so that the lines are above the mounting screws instead of below. Gives you about 4-6 more inches of clearance.
Trending Topics
#9
ЯєŧąяĐ Єl¡m¡иąŧøя ™
iTrader: (18)
Originally Posted by Lane
You can 'flip' the fuel lines on the brackets to get more clearance. A must for duals. Just flip the two fuel line brackets(in the DS tunnel), so that the lines are above the mounting screws instead of below. Gives you about 4-6 more inches of clearance.
#10
I'm not sure what the kit comes with but you might want to pick up some mandrel prebent pipes 45 bends. I ordered all my pipe without a kit so I needed a lot and then just cut them to fit.
#13
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: council bluffs Iowa
Posts: 565
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Besides flipping your fuel lines, you need to know that under the driver seat, you will need about 1/2" clearance especially on the drivers side. And at the tunnel you will want to tuck the muffs tight into the tunnel if using bullits and go about 1/4" clearance and you will have no clearance issues. Also you can use the heat shielding from the rear where the stock muff is and fab a heat shield for the fuel lines as i did. You will need less clearance if you have poly motor mounts.
#14
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Grand Prairie, TX
Posts: 5,109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by MattZ28
I have a bunch of header wrap that I never used....so I'll use that. Thanks
Also, if it's THAT close to the floorboard, it will probably smack it when the engine torques, so I might flatten that pipe a little bit.
Also, if it's THAT close to the floorboard, it will probably smack it when the engine torques, so I might flatten that pipe a little bit.