Malko

iTrader: (2)

here are the parts I used -

Summit Universal 2.5 X-pipe kit
Flanged 3" to 2.5" reducer X 2
Sweet Thunder 2.5 muffler X 2
2 Turndowns
2 Weld On rubber hangers

First off, looks can be decieving...especially on the internet. I had a friend that could weld help me out, and our workspace was driveway with the car on ramps/jackstands. With saws, a welder and hand tools we went to work. Off came the old y-pipe and we lined everything up. Many cuts are needed in order to make the drivers side work and much welding of additional pipe. Flanges were welded to my Pacesetter headers to work with the ends I bought. Lining everything up turned out to be quite a pain in the *** as nothing is really symmetrical on the LS1. The pipe not only needs to be bent to meet the drivers side header, but it also needs to be bent further back to fit behind the transmision crossbrace. That throws everything else out of whack, pipes neededing an inch here and there and you end up with many gaps. From the X-pipe back, you need to angle your pipes as far up as possible with the mufflers on to ensure a proper fit. Easier said than done considering tacks won't really hold the heavy Sweet Thunder muffler onto the pipe long enough for you to take the whole thing off for the 50th time to weld.

My welder did the best he could to fill gaps and whatnot, but it looks a bit messy. Nothing went on exactly even. It now hangs lower than most 3 inch systems do which pretty much nullifies the point of me having a 2.5 inch system. There isn't too much that can be done about it though other than to start over.

By the way, this whole thing took about 3 whole days - certainly too long!

If you ever had the idea of doing this on your own on jackstands with no pipe bender and expertise, I'D HIGHLY ADVISE YOU NOT TO TRY THIS!

Result: I now have an exhaust that scrapes on certain speed bumps AND is QUIETER THAN MY HOOKER CATBACK!!!!!!!! I don't quite understand why it would be so quiet other than some uncheck restriction somewhere. Honestly fellas, IT WAS NOT WORTH THE TIME. HAVE AN EXHAUST EXPERT DO THIS FOR YOU!!!!!! (or have a lift and the right machinery + knowlege)

Now it's a flip of the coin between Lane's 3-inch and Texas Speed TDs. Getting quieter was the opposite of what I wanted.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

That's why I paid Speed Inc. a pretty penny to do mine...it took them a week to fab mine up.

Malko

iTrader: (2)

I hope this will help atleast 1 person not waste their money and weekend!

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

Some of us stubborn guys probably still wont listen

I was thinking of getting that same set up from summit, but may just get an X pipe and have all the parts fabbed from straight pipe.

rufretic

iTrader: (37)

I did mine too. I didn't think it was that bad, you just have to measure and plan it out ahead. The hardest part for me was getting the X-pipe right where my BMR extreme TA cross brace has the bend for the exhaust to go through. It helps to get pipes with bell ends and get some extra clamps so you can piece it all together before welding. I had mine all together and then took it to an exhaust shop to have them weld it together. My duals are just as loud as my y with an open cutout but sound much better(deeper). They made an extra 10 rwhp and 3 rwtq peak and gained through the entire curve. They probly picked up even more because the day I dynoed with the duals was more humid and 20 degrees hotter.
Do you have any pics of yours? I would like to see how you ran into problems.
Heres a couple of mine.


They arent the best true duals I've seen but I had no exhaust experience and I couldn't find an exhaust shop that would do them because of the cross brase. They serve their purpose so I'm happy.
Are you going to try to fix yours or are you just giving up and buying a pre-made set? I don't understand how they could not be louder than full exhaust system. Maybe it's getting choked up some where. Have you had it dynoed?

jimmy 2 Times

iTrader: (18)

my true duals were dont on my back (stands, no lift) as well as no mandrel bender

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

Jimmy, Rufretic, how much did it end up costing you to build those?

Malko

iTrader: (2)

I just got them on this weekend, but they just look like too much trouble to dump more time and $$$ into. I'll post pics of the pipe either when i take them off or if i get them on a lift between now and went they get taken off. I can give a side angle of them tomorrow. No dyno....I'm suspecting there is some very large restriction somewhere, but I do not feel like ripping it all apart again (nor does the other guy wanna weld it again).

Sorry to sound so negative, but overall it was not a whole lot of fun to do nor did it result in what I wanted. Rufretic, your pipes look very well done in my opinion. I'd pay you to do mine if you were around here! Jimmy, those duals look insane! How long did that take you???

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

I was thinking of going with a 3" TD system. I was also thinking of of mocking something up with 3" abs/PVC pipe to get the fit and angles correct, then copy it in steel. Do any of you that have done this, think that this idea would work?

98OCT/A

iTrader: (5)

I was thinking of going with 2.5" TDs also. Does it make a big difference in sound?

99Hawk262

iTrader: (19)

I'm pretty surprised that it is quieter than Hooker. My buddy has a H/C SS with Mac mids, ORY and a bullet in the I-pipe into Hooker and I am louder than him. Not by much, but still louder.

99Hawk262

iTrader: (19)

MeentSS02, that is one sick car! I had a black '00 SS M6 before the Hawk and I miss it so much sometimes. Makes me miss it more after seeing your baby . Sweet Ride .

rufretic

iTrader: (37)

Jimmy, That looks like a damn nice fit. Plus you got it over the axle for good clearance. You get a but that must not have been your first time. The one thing I don't like is I would think those sharp turns with no mandrel bends have to be a little restrictive. Is your whole system 2.5"? Thats what it looks like. If you don't plan on ever going over 500rwhp I'm sure it flows as good as it needs to.

Mine goes from 3" to the X and then 2.5" the rest of the way. I went under the axle to make it a little easier but I lost a little clearance back there. It doesn't really matter for me though because the cross brace is still the lowest point, I can't ever go over curbs or speed bumps. My car is not a DD, so I don't mind but it wouldn't be the best choice for some people.

As for people asking about what it cost, it got up there. It's all stainless. I think I spent around $250-300 for all the pipe, mandrel bends and x-pipe, around $100 for the mufflers, $150 for the tips and $200 for all the welds. So say $750 It's still about half of what it would cost to have them custom made by a shop, I don't believe they use stainless and I know they don't use Corsa tips. Plus they wouldn't even quote me with the BMR extreme torque arm, they all said it can't be done.

99Hawk262

iTrader: (19)

If we are looking at the same pics, it looks like he is mandrel bent all the way back?? What sharp turns are you referring to?

rufretic

iTrader: (37)

Looking at it again, I think your right. I thought he said no mandrel bends, but he said no bender. He probly did the same thing as me and bought them pre-bent. That one dent right before the pipes go together threw me off but I bet he put that there to clear from bumping something. I was thinking the 90s were like that but from the rear view they do look to be mandrel bends.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

I think he meant he had no mandrel bender, but I'm pretty sure he just used some U-shaped mandrel bends that he cut and pasted in place.

Looks oddly similar to mine:

King James

iTrader: (13)

I paid $150 for my TD's + $100 for mufflers. They are 3" to the X and 2.5" after the X using the same mufflers as MeentSS02. Granted they are crush bent and not manderal bent, and they are dumped but for $250 total investment I'll make due

jimmy 2 Times

iTrader: (18)

he is correct, no mandrel bender. Just bought a bunch of 2.5 straight, and U's from summit or jegs (i can't remember) the rest was cut and welded to fit

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

Ah, I could see why it was bit of a pain cutting the bends to make them all fit.

V6 Bird

iTrader: (15)

The summit and Jegs junction are pretty rough. Similar to a sonsors here. Ive been building these systems for "fun" for awhile now and ive never seen such junctions in that kind of shape. ive built some on my own and still dont see how they come out so terrible.