obZidian

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, this is a post i have running and thought tht maybe i'll get more expoure and help in here...thanks in advance:

Ok, i finally got around to dropping in my 90mm fast intake!!

I have dade it siting here for a while but just got around to doing this.

I got my old LS1, yes, still had that piece of junk!!!!....intake of and im right now where i would need to replace the 10 bolts for the valley pan.

Two things, well, right now, plez kepp tuning in becuz i feel that i might need to get back to ya'll again.

Well, three things!!!!

1. I broke that stupid oil pressure switch removing the intake. I got a bit impatient under the cowl, no help just me, so i just went and boom..it snapped like a piece of paper. You would think this piece would have a stronger base on it. Anyways, i still have about a mm or 2 still threading in the block...WHATS THE BEST WAY TO REMOVE THIS PIECE WITHOUT DAMAGING THE THREAD?

2. Those silly pieces of foam on the valley pan, SHOULD THEY GO OR SHOULD I LEAVE THEM THERE?

3. And finally, i want to replace my knock sensors since i was getting tons of false knock. The sensors i got are GM# 12589867 ACD# 213-3521 HOW DO I FREAKING REMOVE THE CLIPS OR THE SENSORS TOPS OF THE KNOCK SENSORS!!!!!! this is driving me nuts!!!!

Ok, thanks ppl, im doing htis right now so any bit of help would be much appreciated. I would like to finish today by only need to just drop in the manifold and be done by tomorrow.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

1. I the easiest way to replace the oil pressure sensor is with the right tool. An oil pressure sensor socket. i got mine at the local parts store for about $7.

2. Not sure what peices of foam you are talking about? the ones on the stock intake? one in front one in back? if so those you don't need.

3. you have a 98 so you are more than likely going to break the knock sensor clips taking them out. ui have a 98 too. they get VERY brittle with the heat and snap really easy. just get a small flat head screw driver and try to unclip it and pull it up at the same time. if they break you can still plug them in but if you tug on them they will slide out. (like mine)

LS1FIRE

iTrader: (1)

I am curious to know are those the correct part numbers for the knock sensors for the 98 are there differnt part numbers for differnt years?

I will be adding a 90 setup as well since the valley cover bolts need to come off it wouldnt hurt to change knock sensors as well i guess. How long do they usally hold up?

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1879784/1

heres a link to my cardomain page...

It isnt much but i added some picks of the knock sensors i have in the car right now nd hte valley pan area. Th efoam parts are visible and the the pic with the knock is the existing sensor harness and sensor in the pocket.

Are these the old ones or the new issues? I think these are the new ones.....

Wat does this oil pressure sensor socket look like? is it a regular socket or really a special tool?

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

yeah those are the newer knock sensors and plugs. thas odd.
and yeah take that foam out.
Its just a big really deep socket that the whole sensor fits in.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

so i have the new sensors....ALREADY? This is a 98!!

Huh? Well, i guess i got some of the new issue sensors in 98.

So, now i have a problem. I thought i was getting a sorts of false knock...back to the drawing board!!!

OK, got here almost ready, gonna put all of the fuel lines on right now, but the small vacuum line on the left, rear side. I saw a pic where someone had blocked this off...should i do the same or hook it up? got som pics, will add them to my cardomain page...keep tuned!!

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

hook up the small vacum line. it goes to your A/C controls.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

yeah...i was just looking at that.....

Got here buttoned up a bit. Kinda scratchd up my black fittings a bit for the rear fuel crossover but whatever!!!! its to late to car right now...i might just touch them up a bit later.

So, a quick recap...

I still need a new oil sensor and that socket. I finall got the knock sensors off to find out that i already have the new 98'z sensors.

Is this correct? ANyone else can jump in on this and help out...plez dont tell me i wasnt money on sensors i dont need? Hey, you think i can trade them in for an oil pressure switch? hmmm...gonna try that!! hahaha!

alright guys, more to come thanks fella...

over an out!!!

2c5s

iTrader: (11)

Here is a tip for you, plug the MAP sensor hole in the back of the fast. Get a triple port tee and run the map sensor and a/c vacuum together and then to the side port on the fast. It makes it a hell of alot easier to put back together. All you have to hook up is one vacuum line to the side port of the intake.


Give an email and I'll send pics.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

sure....

arg_z28@yahoo.com

That makes sense...ever had any issues with the map sensor giving you funny readings?

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

i never had any problems putting it back together with the MAP sensor.
Hell its really easy on the fast you just plug the MAP sensor conector into the MAP sensor, just feel around back there and plop it in.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

hey, thats wat she said mang!!! "just feel back there and plop it in"

Sory, it was just killing me, couldn't resist!!!

Anyways, i just got the manifold in and the fuel system plumbed. I have a tiny, tiny leak, more like air bubbles, spitting out of a gauge i put on the pass side and a tiny bit on the stock fuel line to an fitting. ITs not big deal, just got tighten them up a bit more.

The gauge is gonna suck though, is there a way i can smear some sealant on the outside of the thread and stop the bubbles from surfacing? It ghetto but i can't tighten that gauge anymore without stripping it.

Gonna have some pic....... hey, how come no one told me or written in the manual that using a torque wrench ,when combined with the proper fitting to torque the driver side rear bolts on the manifold, was gonna suck so much? it was crazy geting it in the socket let alone getting the wrench out.....it was jammed between the manifold and cowl...

anyways, thanks ya'll, got do a few other things, i swapped out the knock sensors, the rear one was covered in this chalky residue...put rtv high temp sealant around the grommet and on the outside egde, it should be find. Replaced the oil switch AFTER the manifold was in..... i had completely forgot about that freaking switch...NOW that was a pain!!!

I adjusted the TB so it would close shut. The throttle swing arm thingy was a few different spot to insert the throttle bung, used the first one and thebalde seems to close all the way and open 100%. SO, i'll get here scanned and see if i have to adjust it anymore...i dont think so though. Seems as if the new FAST 90mm TB is fixed, but only time will tell.

LaTerZ!

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

ok, got her running after a few hiccups!!!

The fast TB is now sticking... DOH!!!! I can pull on the TB cable and she'll go back to normal. However, whenever i drive around or in idle, she'll stick. I got her to stick, shut the car off and she went back to 0% again..

Im stumped... i opened her and could see where the blade might be hitting open. At the bottom of bald area, about the last few tenths of distance needed to obtain 0% TPS.

I cant find the fix so can anyone point me in the right direction? A check spring?

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

Those are pieces of ****!
Lots of people put carb return springs to fix the "sticking". iot doesn't stick on the actuall TB housing like you are thinking. It sticks because of the air flowing thru it. ie:it doesn't stick when the car is not on.
Also check youe TPS % and make sure it changes with the ever so slightest pedal movement. I blew a motor due to the FAST 90 mm TB.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

right!! I was scanning the TPS% and i noticed that the percentage was inaccurate..

It sticks with the air flow? Will drilling a small hole in the blade help?

Bill00Formula

iTrader: (4)

I thought about drilling a hole also, but was told by FAST that drilling a hole would make it worse.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

yeah that won't work. the nly thing that "fixes" it is a carb return spring for the sticking. or throw it in the trash.