Fernco "smooth bellow", best > $10 spent!
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Fernco "smooth bellow", best > $10 spent!
Went to Home Depot today to pick up a 3"x3" rubber coupler to make my smooth bellow with like alot of people have and Ive gotta say its simple....too simple lol. Its a tight fit on the TB but I done somethin that Im gonna let you guys know about. I had a TB core here that was bare and I just squezed it over it and set the TB/Fernco in the oven set at 200* for 15 min. and then let it set outside until it cooled off(it wasnt real hot, about like it would be drivin around for a while during summer) and pulled it off and put it on my car. Simple. I did however trim half of one end so I could angle it up good for alignment with everything a little better but it was only 1/4" or so. Really cleaned the look of it up for sure. I have seen em on customers cars a couple of times but have never messed around with em until now. Best 10 bucks yet
#5
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Keep in mind that at least a few people have reported cracked lids due to the Fernco mod. It is a tight fit, the coupling doesn't have any give or flex to it and when the engine torques to one side under load it pulls on the lid and you end up replacing a ~$100 lid for a $10 Fernco.
I'm working on digging up a link to the company I bought my bellows from. It's designed for the intake tract on a semi if I remember correctly, is maybe $15 tops but has the ability to flex at it's midpoint (single rib) in an effort to save your lid from possible cracking.
Edit: Here is a pic, from jrp's sticky.
http://ourworld.cs.com/jrpws6/mod+gu...low+system.jpg
I'm working on digging up a link to the company I bought my bellows from. It's designed for the intake tract on a semi if I remember correctly, is maybe $15 tops but has the ability to flex at it's midpoint (single rib) in an effort to save your lid from possible cracking.
Edit: Here is a pic, from jrp's sticky.
http://ourworld.cs.com/jrpws6/mod+gu...low+system.jpg
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Yeah, mine was 6 + tax. That is why I put > $10 in the title, just forgot to do it in my post. I will say it doesnt flex and may be a problem for someone that runs their car harder than I do mine.
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#8
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
Keep in mind that at least a few people have reported cracked lids due to the Fernco mod. It is a tight fit, the coupling doesn't have any give or flex to it and when the engine torques to one side under load it pulls on the lid and you end up replacing a ~$100 lid for a $10 Fernco.
I'm working on digging up a link to the company I bought my bellows from. It's designed for the intake tract on a semi if I remember correctly, is maybe $15 tops but has the ability to flex at it's midpoint (single rib) in an effort to save your lid from possible cracking.
Edit: Here is a pic, from jrp's sticky.
http://ourworld.cs.com/jrpws6/mod+gu...low+system.jpg
I'm working on digging up a link to the company I bought my bellows from. It's designed for the intake tract on a semi if I remember correctly, is maybe $15 tops but has the ability to flex at it's midpoint (single rib) in an effort to save your lid from possible cracking.
Edit: Here is a pic, from jrp's sticky.
http://ourworld.cs.com/jrpws6/mod+gu...low+system.jpg
#10
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Originally Posted by Lithium
Mine had a decent amount of flex in it actually...I never thought twice about it cracking the lid.
I'm working on finding the place I bought my coupler from. Havn't found the link yet, still trying. I had it bookmarked on my old desktop but the motherboard fried and I didn't backup ANYTHING.
Edit: I don't know if I will be able to find it. I must have missed something in the past, my searches aren't getting jack crap for information because they don't go back far enough chronologically. I used to do searches on here and get stuff from the first months of tech for crying out loud.
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
Maybe all are not created equally. Or maybe you need the right conditions for it to crack the lid. Engine can move quite a bit, I can easily see how it's possible, especially if the plastic was cold at the time.
I'm working on finding the place I bought my coupler from. Havn't found the link yet, still trying. I had it bookmarked on my old desktop but the motherboard fried and I didn't backup ANYTHING.
Edit: I don't know if I will be able to find it. I must have missed something in the past, my searches aren't getting jack crap for information because they don't go back far enough chronologically. I used to do searches on here and get stuff from the first months of tech for crying out loud.
I'm working on finding the place I bought my coupler from. Havn't found the link yet, still trying. I had it bookmarked on my old desktop but the motherboard fried and I didn't backup ANYTHING.
Edit: I don't know if I will be able to find it. I must have missed something in the past, my searches aren't getting jack crap for information because they don't go back far enough chronologically. I used to do searches on here and get stuff from the first months of tech for crying out loud.
http://store.airflo.com/3h4.html
#12
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Originally Posted by Tri5Nerd
Could it be this one? This is for the 4" pipe but they also have the 3.5" tube.
http://store.airflo.com/3h4.html
http://store.airflo.com/3h4.html
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Unless you are doing this for looks, I dont see the point. Horse power gains will be tiny, and not even felt in the seat of your pants. Every little bit counts, but is it worth possibly buying a new lid?