Phoenix 5.7

iTrader: (7)

Ive finished up most of my cam swap and am putting my crank pulley back on. it doesn't seem to want to go on completely. i would estimate it is about 1/8in from being flush with the crank. it might not be an issue, but i wanted to be sure before i move on. to get it that far, i torqued down my old crank bolt to 220ft/lb. these pics kinda show what im talkin about





i need to continue, so i need to know if its ok ASAP

camaroextra

iTrader: (10)

get that thing back on to where it was. get some wood and a hammer

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Judging by the rust on the inside lip of the pulley, it looks like that's as far as it was ever on in the first place.

camaroextra

iTrader: (10)

blur, when did you become a mod? Does this mean that i cant talk **** to you anymore?

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

PSJ PM'd me saying someone recommended me, asking if I was interested. I found the thread in the admin/mod lounge talking about recommendations and found out quite a few people recommended me. I haven't been posting because I had some beastly finals all week lol. My first week as a mod and I only make like 3 posts........


And no you can't talk **** anymore.................................. bitch..........


As for that pulley, now that I look closer, It seems like there's some of that red **** from the bolt head on the crank itself, so it might actually go on farther. I put my ASP on to 22ft-lbs or whatever it is, then cranked it over another 90*. If it looks like it's in good shape go for it.

Phoenix 5.7

iTrader: (7)

The red **** is from when i put the crank bolt on without the crank pulley i think to turn the motor. after closer inspection, judging by the rust, it looks like thats all it goes on.

jay_99z

iTrader: (5)

No. If it didn't go any farther with 220 ft/lbs......I wouldn't reccomend smashing it with a hammer.

Xtnct00WS6

iTrader: (8)

What I did and it worked like a charm is to heat up the pulley in the oven and then slide it on. That sucker was hot, but it was much easier. I had to hammer it on a slight bit with a piece of wood, but it worked great. After I hammered it on I was able to get the crank bolt on far enough to where I could just start torquing it down.

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

yes, do the oven trick.

if your belt keeps coming off, then you need to push it in further, lol.

daryl2cb@yahoo.com

iTrader: (2)

Mine was fully flush on the crank, however, I do agree that it looks like that is where it was, do your belts line up?

Phoenix 5.7

iTrader: (7)

the A/C belt appears to line up. i putting the water pump on right now, so im not sure if the main belt lines up. i hope so

Iron Sights

I did the same thing with mine. I had to tap it in with a piece of wood and a hammer until the crank bolt would grab enough thread. It looked like there was some rubber-type substance on the pulley (SLP), so I really didn't feel comfortable putting it in an oven. No problems at all, it has been two weeks so far, except one of the tensioners is making even more noise than before.

Phoenix 5.7

iTrader: (7)

I had to hammer the pulley on a decent bit before tightening down the bolt. i didn't want to risk stripping the first threads in the crank

HartAttack

iTrader: (8)

so you guys didnt use a 3 prong puller at all?
what did you do to get it off?

Phoenix 5.7

iTrader: (7)

I used a 3 prong puller, but a medium size one. it grabs inside the pulley on some tabs. i did have the use a rubber mallet to get it all teh way off though.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Autozone will "rent" you a 3 prong "harmonic ballancer puller" for a couple bucks, which they will refund you once you bring the puller back. The one I used from them worked great. Make sure you have the pusher right in the center of the crank bolt while yanking it off though.

mrtosh

Bringing this thread back from the dead. Just finished up my cam and valve spring install this weekend, and the belts aren't lining up for ****. The AC jumps over and the Serp. belt is slightly twisted and the idler pulley is whining. I torqued that damn thing on the best I could. I can't even get the stock bolt back out. Can I heat up the pulley while on the crank, so long as I watch not to melt the crank seal?? Any other recommendations to get that damn pulley on all the way?

flyin ryan

iTrader: (1)

If you do a search you will find a member(can't recall his name right now) who sells a really great istall tool.
It makes life much easier.
If you are in a hury you can remove the balancer and put it in your oven and heat it to 240-260 degres for 30 minutes which will help it to slide on a little easier.

Good luck hope this helps.

Ryan

matt94z

iTrader: (49)

The oven trick really works. Makes pulley installs a snap.

Eddie 70

iTrader: (3)

Is this a safe temperature for all underdrive pullies? I have an ASP that I will be installing in the next week or so and don't want to ruin the pulley.

One more question, are you guys using some kind of lube on the crank and in the balancer to help with the slip fit? Or is it supposed to be a dry fit?