stock crank pully ** NEED HELP **
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stock crank pully ** NEED HELP **
As it says I need all the help I can get to swap out the STOCK H-Balancer with the engine IN THE CAR.......
ALL and ANY write-ups would be great....
Please keep in mind that im stationed in England and Im limited on tools and resources .....
PLEASE HELP....
I need this done ASAP
ALL and ANY write-ups would be great....
Please keep in mind that im stationed in England and Im limited on tools and resources .....
PLEASE HELP....
I need this done ASAP
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Re: stock crank pully ** NEED HELP **
Thanks.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
now what about the work space......I took a look and for fear of looking/sounding stupid comon sence is leaning towards pulling out the ratiator to get teh 3jaw in there......
any houghts on that ???????????[LIST] <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
now what about the work space......I took a look and for fear of looking/sounding stupid comon sence is leaning towards pulling out the ratiator to get teh 3jaw in there......
any houghts on that ???????????[LIST] <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
#3
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Re: stock crank pully ** NEED HELP **
I know you don't have a NAPA store in the UK, but at least the size is shown below:
________________________________________________
Autozone has two different size gear pullers you can borrow. Use the smaller size 3 jaw puller for the crank pulley. Also, you will need a longer crank bolt. The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head of this bolt is 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is $5.39. Also purchase 2 washers P/N 8071-035B. Aditionally, if you don’t have a 24mm 6 point ½” drive socket; go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket. It does not grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt.
If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!!
Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort.
On an A4 car, remove the 2 bolts that hold up the starter. Let the starter just hang by it’s wires. Put a steel pin such as a large allen wrench in one of the holes in the flex plate (flywheel). Turn the engine with your ½ inch drive breaker bar attached to the 24mm ½” drive socket until the engine stops turning do the to pin hitting up against the block. You will need about a 2 foot piece of pipe [and] your long ½” drive breaker bar to loosen the pulley bolt. In fact, I had to use both feet to loosen the bolt!
Once the bolt breaks loose, install the puller. As you use the puller, you will need to unscrew the crank bolt when the pulley hits up against it. Keep doing this until there are not enough threads left on the stock bolt to pull the pulley all the way off. Then install your longer NAPA bolt and pull the pulley the rest of the way off.
You will also need this longer bolt to start pushing the pulley back on the crank during re-assembly. The stock bolt is just not long enough, and banging on the pulley to start it on the crank is NOT the answer.
Good Luck,
Ron
________________________________________________
Autozone has two different size gear pullers you can borrow. Use the smaller size 3 jaw puller for the crank pulley. Also, you will need a longer crank bolt. The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head of this bolt is 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is $5.39. Also purchase 2 washers P/N 8071-035B. Aditionally, if you don’t have a 24mm 6 point ½” drive socket; go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket. It does not grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt.
If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!!
Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort.
On an A4 car, remove the 2 bolts that hold up the starter. Let the starter just hang by it’s wires. Put a steel pin such as a large allen wrench in one of the holes in the flex plate (flywheel). Turn the engine with your ½ inch drive breaker bar attached to the 24mm ½” drive socket until the engine stops turning do the to pin hitting up against the block. You will need about a 2 foot piece of pipe [and] your long ½” drive breaker bar to loosen the pulley bolt. In fact, I had to use both feet to loosen the bolt!
Once the bolt breaks loose, install the puller. As you use the puller, you will need to unscrew the crank bolt when the pulley hits up against it. Keep doing this until there are not enough threads left on the stock bolt to pull the pulley all the way off. Then install your longer NAPA bolt and pull the pulley the rest of the way off.
You will also need this longer bolt to start pushing the pulley back on the crank during re-assembly. The stock bolt is just not long enough, and banging on the pulley to start it on the crank is NOT the answer.
Good Luck,
Ron
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Re: stock crank pully ** NEED HELP **
There is a special tool to remove the balancer, but it's not absolutely needed. A good quality 3-jaw puller (has to be a small one) will suffice.
There are three little "pads" on the inner diameter of the balancer that you will use the jaws of the puller on.
It's also helpful to have a slightly longer than stock balancer bolt to use for removal/installation of the balancer.
There are three little "pads" on the inner diameter of the balancer that you will use the jaws of the puller on.
It's also helpful to have a slightly longer than stock balancer bolt to use for removal/installation of the balancer.
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Re: stock crank pully ** NEED HELP **
COOL
I donty have a longer than stock bolt just a new stock bolt...
any one got a Part # for a new longer bolt and were to get it.
I donty have a longer than stock bolt just a new stock bolt...
any one got a Part # for a new longer bolt and were to get it.
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Re: stock crank pully ** NEED HELP **
This site may help you
http://www.ebbsnflows.cz28.com/photo4.html
A good write up of an underdrive pulley install but it has photos/instructions on how to get the stocker off.
http://www.ebbsnflows.cz28.com/photo4.html
A good write up of an underdrive pulley install but it has photos/instructions on how to get the stocker off.
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Re: stock crank pully ** NEED HELP **
Let the starter hang by the wires?!?!?!?!
Are you kidding me <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" />
Are you kidding me <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" />
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#8
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Re: stock crank pully ** NEED HELP **
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by XLR8VRL:
<strong> Let the starter hang by the wires?!?!?!?!
Are you kidding me <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Jeeze,,,I am assuming he has the battery unhooked.
Hey, you can wire the starter up out of the way too. Either way, the starter motor wires do not need to be removed.
<strong> Let the starter hang by the wires?!?!?!?!
Are you kidding me <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Jeeze,,,I am assuming he has the battery unhooked.
Hey, you can wire the starter up out of the way too. Either way, the starter motor wires do not need to be removed.
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Re: stock crank pully ** NEED HELP **
Thanks for the link to the write up but does anyone know the bolt size and lenght I need for removaul and intsalation??????????
and with that web link I guess it answers my Q on weither or not I can do it with the engine in the car......lokking at the pics that is.....
Thanks again guys but keep it coming......
like I said being stationed over here in England its not like I can run to PepBoys or Advanced Auto Zone if something goes wrong so I want to be SUPER DUPER sure of what Im doing
and with that web link I guess it answers my Q on weither or not I can do it with the engine in the car......lokking at the pics that is.....
Thanks again guys but keep it coming......
like I said being stationed over here in England its not like I can run to PepBoys or Advanced Auto Zone if something goes wrong so I want to be SUPER DUPER sure of what Im doing