383camaroSS

iTrader: (5)

Im Looking To Upgrade To A Racing Water Pump But I Dont Want To Get An Electric Water Pump....its A Waste Of Money And Alittle Hp...anyone Know Where I Can Find One??

evrae205

might as well get an electric man. who cares about the HP gains. you can have it on while the car is off. Makes changing belts easier. a non electric if they make one is gonna cost a lot also.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Why do you want a new pump? The stocker flows plenty. It has a restrictor plate in it actually, but it's usually just referred to as "the thermostat".

00454sscamaro

i seen a belt driven racing one in a magazine, but unless i remeber what magazine that was idk who even makes it.+it increases flow over the stocker so it actually would take even more hp to run it... csr maybe idk without looking in the magazine, but then again it will most likely cost alot just like the electrics.. i like my electric pump, it was more noticible then most of my other mods including my underdrive pulley, even though thats not why i got it. there is also a racing electric version of my pump weighs alot less then the stock but doesnt flow nearly as much as the (same as stocker in weight) street version.race is 35 and street 55 i think.i'll go see if i can find the magazine later, if you really want a racing belt driven water pump.

300bhp/ton

For what gain and what application?

A water pump is rpm based, meaning the faster the engine spins the faster the water pump spins. The stocker is proven to work.

Electric pumps are great and are typically worth about 20bhp so a significant amount.

However electric pumps have one large short fall. I think they ooperate at an equiverlent of the engine running at 4500rpm on a mechanical setup.

So for street use and even dragstrip use an electric pump will flow more water more of the time. On a race circuit or high speed use such as the Silver State Classic where then engine is likely to spend the majority of time above 4500rpm then running an electric water pump may cause the engine to slowly overheat due to lack or circulation.

00pewterWS6TA

id pay $650 for a chrome mezimere electric pump any day. or as soon as i get the cash. i cant wait to get mine, just a little pice of mind that the engine is keeping its cool when i start adding more mods.

DanO

electric waterpumps = drag racing only

Road racing would eat an electric pump for dinner.

(what i mean is that the electric pump cannot keep up at the higher rpms.. and only allows short bursts @ WOT... Once you surpass 4500rpms.. the electric just cant keep up and this is why you see performance gain)

ChocoTaco369

i'd be more worried about the strain on your electrical system than a few hp. if you have an electric water pump, it'll wreak havok on you if you have any type of system like i do. i run ~400 watts without a capacitor - ran it on my 3.4L V6 for 3 years with no problems. just put it in my LS1. if i got an electric water pump, i'm sure my alternator would take a dive.

i don't think an electric water pump adds 20hp either. 7-10hp is more realistic. to me, it's not worth turning down the bass.

Gary98Z

iTrader: (9)

What about the Evans water pump and coolant?

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

There are plenty of people with daily driven LS1's with electric pumps that dont have problems.

HAMRHEAD

iTrader: (8)

Stick with the stock pump unless you feel the need to run the pump with the motor off. The stocker will flow way more than enough. Just get 160 thermostat!

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

It's working good on my 427.

MIKE_84

Stick with stock delco

allngn_c5

iTrader: (3)

EWP is definately not a waste of money. Max Flow from idle, cooler temps, can run with the engine off to cool down between rounds, and BETTER gas mileage. The Meziere EWP looks great as well. Your engine will also wind up quicker due to less parasitic loss. Add the U/D Pully and you get even better mileage, and even quicker acceleration. Most noticeable on the top end. I have been to 200 several times. So easy its scary. I hope you reconsider. Good luck on your decision.

300bhp/ton

Just remember though if you remain at speed for long at high rpms the pump will be spinning slower than is needed and slower than a mechanical one.

Street & drag EWP is great, circuit and highspeed not so.

What sort of rpms is 200mph? I guess pretty high. If it's above 4500rpm then your water pump will be falling behind. Ages back there was a really good thread on this, I think in the Road race forum about two guys who had entered the Silver State Classic. Identical setups except for the water pump. The one with the electric pump kept over heating so had to keep the rpms below 4500rpm which limited top speed.

allngn_c5

iTrader: (3)

200 mph 5th gear at 6750 rpms, give or take. As far as stop and go type conditions and racing under them, the EWP may not keep up. I have been stuck in 90 + degrees bumper to bumper and never got hotter then 185 degrees. In highway street racing you aren't above 4500 rpms that long anyways. I was looking at their website and they make no mention of your claim. I am waiting for a reply from Meziere about your claim. What source did you use? Anyways thanks for letting me know this, I will be sure to keep an eye on my guages. Thanks again. Can't wait to see what kind of comment Meziere will have about this.

300bhp/ton

No one particular source just a decent amount of reading over the last 18-24 months.

That thread I mentioned was quite informative though.

Personally I really like the idea of EWP and for 90% of street/strip cars its a top notch idea.

I can't remember where I've read (although someone elses mentioned it in this thread). But as far as I know the EWP spins at the same speed as a mechanical one would with the engine at 4500rpm.

So that means if your engine is only at 2000rpm with an EWP you have much better water circulation and thus cooling efficency.

Short blasts (as in drag racing) won't affect temps as on average you rpms will still be equal or less than 4500rpm.

At 200mph @ 6750rpm then in theory an EWP is still only spinning an equiverlent of of a mechanical one at 4500rpm (engine). However I guess it would need to be hot out along with somewhat prolonged use see any adverse affect.

Would be interested to see what Meziere say.

allngn_c5

iTrader: (3)

No response from Meziere, so you are most likely dead on with what you are posting. I appreciate the info and thanks a lot. I will definately keep a close eye on my temps and stuff between WOT blasts.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

At speed, the radiator is going to experience more heat transfer as well, so the water that is circulating more slowly, will experience more of a temperature drop when it re-enters. The thermostat is not an ON/OFF switch from what I've gathered, it's a gradual opening and increases per temperature to allow more flow. Since I've referred to this as a restrictor plate a few times, you can imagine it as that.

At any RPM, the water pump is only going to flow what the thermostat will allow it to. As the car heats, it will allow for more. At 200mph, the radiator is being blasted so hard, that even with less flow, it cools as if a huge radiator were in place.

I'm just speculating on most of this though.... food for thought...

Hopefully someone who knows what the hell is going on will clarify.

allngn_c5

iTrader: (3)

I totally see your logic. I don't know if its 100 % accurate, but it makes sense to me.