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True Duals, questions answered here. Post YOUR information and pics too!
#221
Originally Posted by 00 black ram air
HOw much modification does it take to put the texas speed truw dual kit on a f body with kooks headers or does it just slide on
#222
On The Tree
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alright after reading a little im still confused, im planning on building my t/ds myself since no shop in town will do a over the axel set-up ive already got into 2 arguments with shop workers saying its not possible. anyway my question is my car has the slp suspension option installed on it, not realk sure what this means but what other suspension items will give me more clearance for my pipes?
#223
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Originally Posted by 95stsrider
alright after reading a little im still confused, im planning on building my t/ds myself since no shop in town will do a over the axel set-up ive already got into 2 arguments with shop workers saying its not possible. anyway my question is my car has the slp suspension option installed on it, not realk sure what this means but what other suspension items will give me more clearance for my pipes?
#224
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Originally Posted by 95stsrider
alright after reading a little im still confused, im planning on building my t/ds myself since no shop in town will do a over the axel set-up ive already got into 2 arguments with shop workers saying its not possible. anyway my question is my car has the slp suspension option installed on it, not realk sure what this means but what other suspension items will give me more clearance for my pipes?
#225
Originally Posted by 89Formulaws6
seriously just go under the axel, its the same clearence with less headache and less bends
You would have to disconnect the exhaust just to jack the rear of the car up, not very feasable.
#226
12 Second Club
iTrader: (49)
Originally Posted by ONEBADASSWS6
Except for the fact that the exhaust moves whenever the axle moves...which isn't good to say the least.
You would have to disconnect the exhaust just to jack the rear of the car up, not very feasable.
You would have to disconnect the exhaust just to jack the rear of the car up, not very feasable.
#227
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (42)
When you jack up the car it unloads the rear suspension and it will lower the rear axle down onto the exhaust. Makes doing a brake job or changing tires/wheels a pain in the ***..over the axle is the way to go unless you like extra work every time you lift your car in the air.
#228
Originally Posted by slt200mph
When you jack up the car it unloads the rear suspension and it will lower the rear axle down onto the exhaust. Makes doing a brake job or changing tires/wheels a pain in the ***..over the axle is the way to go unless you like extra work every time you lift your car in the air.
#229
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (24)
yup about the extra work, but not really with running them under and loosing ground clearence. I've NEVER scraped them becuase of them being to low becuase i ran them under the axle. i do scrap though once in a long while the mufflers becuase the car is so low....ebaich springs SUCK!
#231
12 Second Club
iTrader: (49)
Originally Posted by slt200mph
When you jack up the car it unloads the rear suspension and it will lower the rear axle down onto the exhaust. Makes doing a brake job or changing tires/wheels a pain in the ***..over the axle is the way to go unless you like extra work every time you lift your car in the air.
#233
TECH Resident
iTrader: (7)
My exhaust system for my 98 TA consists of the following.
I think the shop's workmanship is very good. Welds are clean; system is tucked pretty well; it can be removed relatively easily; and they took good care of my car. They even scanned my DTC’s and cleared them for me at no additional charge. Minimum ground clearance is ~3.5” at the driver side cat. My suspension setup is still stock WS6. I cut ½” off two band clamp bolts to ease my mind (catch, drag, rip) and may tweak the RH tailpipe to move that tip inboard ~3/8”.
The header install was uneventful. I had the car setting very high on ramps, which themselve sat on multiple layers of wood blocks. The only issue I had with the QTP headers was ~1/16” clearance with the k-member on the RH side. It would bang occasionally after the exhaust install. I was able to improve clearance to ~3/16”-1/4” by cutting a small slice out of the k-member using my reciprocating saw with the exhaust installed. I have noticed no banging in ~100 miles of driving since.
I have heads and a 224/228 110lsa cam. The car does not sound like stock, but is not terribly loud at idle. It definitely sounds healthy. It really growls when I get on it.
The total cost, parts and labor, for the entire exhaust, manifold gaskets to tips, was $2377. I got $123 for my used cats;$40 for my stock manifolds; and $35 for the tips that came with the Bassani system. Taking this into account the adjusted cost is $2179. That is a lot, but to be expected for a complete, stainless, mandrel bent, catted (high flow metallic-substrate), dual exhaust system.
Here are the pics and video. The video is low resolution and monaural; the best I can do.
- Stock manifold gaskets
- Stage 8 locking header bolts w/ clips/retainers installed
- QTP 1-3/4” headers w/ HVMC
- Front O2 sensors only
- 24" O2 sensor extensions
- Magnaflow 3” Metallic-Cat converters (59959)
- Bassani Aft-Cat stainless 2.5” dual exhaust system (5798RS5)
- Corsa clone tips (actual size, not the smaller clones)
I think the shop's workmanship is very good. Welds are clean; system is tucked pretty well; it can be removed relatively easily; and they took good care of my car. They even scanned my DTC’s and cleared them for me at no additional charge. Minimum ground clearance is ~3.5” at the driver side cat. My suspension setup is still stock WS6. I cut ½” off two band clamp bolts to ease my mind (catch, drag, rip) and may tweak the RH tailpipe to move that tip inboard ~3/8”.
The header install was uneventful. I had the car setting very high on ramps, which themselve sat on multiple layers of wood blocks. The only issue I had with the QTP headers was ~1/16” clearance with the k-member on the RH side. It would bang occasionally after the exhaust install. I was able to improve clearance to ~3/16”-1/4” by cutting a small slice out of the k-member using my reciprocating saw with the exhaust installed. I have noticed no banging in ~100 miles of driving since.
I have heads and a 224/228 110lsa cam. The car does not sound like stock, but is not terribly loud at idle. It definitely sounds healthy. It really growls when I get on it.
The total cost, parts and labor, for the entire exhaust, manifold gaskets to tips, was $2377. I got $123 for my used cats;$40 for my stock manifolds; and $35 for the tips that came with the Bassani system. Taking this into account the adjusted cost is $2179. That is a lot, but to be expected for a complete, stainless, mandrel bent, catted (high flow metallic-substrate), dual exhaust system.
Here are the pics and video. The video is low resolution and monaural; the best I can do.
Last edited by bsf; 04-15-2008 at 12:33 AM. Reason: updated
#234
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by Dutchesscamaro
After completing our 455 cu. in. LS1 build, (another story) we wanted a 3" Stainless, true dual exhaust system, over the axle, with cats, and X-pipe.
We decided on KOOKS Custom Headers, on Long Island, NY, for the custom installation.
We met with George R at KOOKS and he designed the perfect system for us which included the above plus resonators, twin mufflers and Corsa tips.
The installation was done flawlessly with exceptional weld quality and incredible workmanship. Pictured below are some of the build and install photos.
We would like to thank Mr. Goerge KOOK, George R., George Jr., Larry and Geronimo for the time, effort and hospitality that was given to us while we were at KOOKS.
The sound is exactly what we wanted. The exhaust sound is deep, not raspy and is totally awesome.
If you would like additional pics send PM.
IF you are considering a system such as this, I would strongly recommend contacting George R. at KOOK Custom Headers.
We decided on KOOKS Custom Headers, on Long Island, NY, for the custom installation.
We met with George R at KOOKS and he designed the perfect system for us which included the above plus resonators, twin mufflers and Corsa tips.
The installation was done flawlessly with exceptional weld quality and incredible workmanship. Pictured below are some of the build and install photos.
We would like to thank Mr. Goerge KOOK, George R., George Jr., Larry and Geronimo for the time, effort and hospitality that was given to us while we were at KOOKS.
The sound is exactly what we wanted. The exhaust sound is deep, not raspy and is totally awesome.
If you would like additional pics send PM.
IF you are considering a system such as this, I would strongly recommend contacting George R. at KOOK Custom Headers.
best looking setup i seen so far excelent fit and finish,might have to drive up get mine done one day.
#236
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (50)
Got some new exhaust made up yesterday: 2.5" duals over the axle with bullets. I specifically told the exhaust guy NOT to put tips on it, just tuck up some turndowns in there. So what did he do? He put some nice ugly square tips on that are not even centered or anything. I also told him to try to put an H pipe in there as well, but he didn't. He wasn't there when I picked the car up, so I couldn't have a chat with him about it. He did quote me 200-250 for the system, so I suppose he didn't want to do more work then he had to. Everything else on it looks decent though, clearance is good. It could be tucked up a little higher in some places, but oh well. I haven't paid for it yet, and he better not try to charge me for the ugly tips. I will be calling him again to ask why he did it the way he did.
In short, it has potential to sound good with some kind of crossover (H or X) Right now, it sounds somewhat like a truck, "raps" in lower rpms. At idle, the right side makes a whistling type noise, while the left side sounds normal. Pretty sure thats from the lack of a crossover as well.
Anyway heres some pics and a video clip..
In short, it has potential to sound good with some kind of crossover (H or X) Right now, it sounds somewhat like a truck, "raps" in lower rpms. At idle, the right side makes a whistling type noise, while the left side sounds normal. Pretty sure thats from the lack of a crossover as well.
Anyway heres some pics and a video clip..
#238
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i dont know if anyone has mentioned this or not, i didnt read thru this entire topic.
but, i had a Global West TracLink torque arm ~$500 (awesome piece btw), Summit 3" universal duals with xpipe ~$100, FlowTech 3" afterburner mufflers (which are fullsize mufflers) ~$40 each. and i had absolutely no clearance issues with that torque arm. and the Afterburner mufflers are reversable to aid in fitment.
this was on my old LT1 car
it sounded absolutely amazing!! i wish i had a sound bite to share
but, i had a Global West TracLink torque arm ~$500 (awesome piece btw), Summit 3" universal duals with xpipe ~$100, FlowTech 3" afterburner mufflers (which are fullsize mufflers) ~$40 each. and i had absolutely no clearance issues with that torque arm. and the Afterburner mufflers are reversable to aid in fitment.
this was on my old LT1 car
it sounded absolutely amazing!! i wish i had a sound bite to share