angel71rs

Other lid brand users might want to check too, but SLP owners for sure.

When I took the SLP lid off my recently departed SS, I noticed a wear mark under the neck where it had been hitting the radiator support. I wondered how that affected the lid to filter seal. So today I decided to check the seal as I installed it on my new ride.

I used white grease on the top edge of the paper filter rubber seal, then popped the lid on. Sure enough, there was absolutely no grease transferred to the lid all along the rear edge! So I used the wheel on my bench grinder to whack the spot on the neck (being carefull not to grind thru) with the wear mark, but there was still a gap with no seal on the rear edge:



That's because now the trailing edge of the bottom of the neck was hitting the radiator support:



Wouldn't do much good to grind neck there cause the hose clamp wouldn't conform to the ground out area anyway, figured clamp band would still push neck up. Thought about using some strip type foam insulation on lid, but didn't: 1. If I used it just along back, might not allow other areas to seal, if I used it all around might be too tough to clamp down the lid, hard enough as it is. If a piece of foam came off, guess where it goes.

So instead I just used duct tape on back edge of filter support to raise the back of the filter enough to seal against lid. Had to use a few layers, about 1/8", but it worked. Now I have peace of mind.

daryl2cb@yahoo.com

iTrader: (2)

not as bad as it rubbing the hood.

nyteryder167

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the info. I took a look and the back of mine seals fine, does not hit the radiator support, or rub the hood.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Mine did the same thing. I cut a hole in the plastic radiator support for the lid neck/MAF to ride in. Fits like a glove now, too bad I had to hack the car though.

PS - I have an MTI clear lid though.

TransAmAbe

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I just found this out the end of last week when I had my lid apart. I have the exact same marks on my SLP lid. Good news is that I found a plug (finally) for the A.I.R. hose on the side of the lid. It's actually chrome (bling) and it's at Lowe's, in the fasteners section. Use the 1 1/8" Hillman brand Metal Hole Plugs, and some RTV gasket maker for sealing it up. Looks clean and shiney!!!

Back to the subject, do you think it's a problem to not use the metal hose clamp that goes around where the MAF plugs into the lid? I just couldn't see it doing that much to seal, as the MAF seems pretty tight in mine and how is that wimpy little band clamp going to seal the plastic lid any? I love aftermarket parts, they always fit so well.

Abe

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

I am too lazy to check mine out....

angel71rs

I can rotate the MAF in the lid neck pretty easy with the clamp loose, I can't at all with the clamp tight, so yeah, I think the clamp is helping to compress the lid and sealing it to the MAF.

LOL!

angel71rs

A guy with an MTI lid posted in my thread on CZ28 that his lid didn't rub. Not surprised. Plastic can move around a lot when it pops out of the mold and settles into it's final dimensions. So even lids from the same manufacturer can vary. I used to work in injection molding. Parts that required precision fit, like fuse box covers for Toyota, were put on a metal water cooled jig as soon as they were ejected. Only way to positively control the warp.

Z28LS1KID

I have an SLP lid and never had any rubbing or fitment issues. I just checked it again, and all the edges are sealed nice and tight. But thanks anyway for the heads up.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

I have an SLP with no rubbing, sealing, or fitment issues. I couldnt be happier with my lid and i am always taking it on and off.

LS1 CHiCK x

iTrader: (2)

My SLP lid rubs the bottom of the hood, there is a mark on the lid and the hood where it rubs, just doesn't quite fit right, but I am happy with it regardless. Just wondering if anyone else had this problem.

Z28/2002

iTrader: (27)

Mine is also rubbing the radiator support. But my main problem is the damn clips won't stay locked. I've adjusted it 3 or 4 times and they still pop off. I'm gonna give it one last shot and if it does it again I'm **** canning it and buying a different one

angel71rs

I've read a couple of posts by SLP lid guys having the clips pop off and it usually turns out they are installing it with the front edge to the outside instead of the inside. If that's not it, maybe you can trim the bottom of the front edge to allow it to come down a bit so clips can positively lock over.

Z28/2002

iTrader: (27)

I'll try that and see what happens; thanks

WS6Rampage

Whats with the SLP lids?! Seems like almost everyone is having an issue or another with its fitment. Oh,.to whomever said to just remove the band clamp that hits the radiator support,.. Not a bad idea but don't do it! I checked its seal and it isn't 100%. Im thinking about grinding a bit off the radiator support just like someone else here mentioned. That however,........makes alot of sence!!!

jinxedz

iTrader: (5)

I was having fitment issues until I decided to connect my MAF directly to the lid.

So now it is Lid > MAF > Tubing > TB, instead of, Lid > Tubing > MAF > TB.

Dont think there should be a problem with that.

00pewterWS6TA

no problems here. love it. looks great.

MJK

iTrader: (3)

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Seriously, I am that lazy.

HD1911

iTrader: (13)

ever since i put an SLP smooth bellow, my **** has not lined up at all. I have an SLP Blackwing lid or something like that. Every time i think i get the lid set back into the radiator support with those 4 tabs....it comes off after a minute of driving. So basically i am just sucking unfiltered air all the time now. And the back of my lid is hitting the radiator support also as shown/mentioned above.