brossow

iTrader: (3)

Fast is never fast enough. Assuming I get my electrical glitch worked out (cooling fans keep blowing a fuse) I need more power. Right now I've got SLP lid, SLP CAI, Magnaflow catback, and a standard Predator tune in my 2002 Z28. I'm not afraid of manual labor, so what's next for under $1000 total? Only catch is the car needs to remain 100% streetable without a significant loss in mileage as it's my daily driver and I put on >1000 miles a month on average. It'd be nice if current mods would complement future mods rather than being tossed aside. (Eventually I'm thinking forced induction, but that's way down the road.)

Thanks,
Brent

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

LT's, ORY, Pulley and TB. That should be under $1k.

Ever thought about suspension mods? A set of SFC's will really help the car and make it more fun.

1slowls1

iTrader: (1)

2000-2002 Pace Setter Longtube Headers - Coated = $374.99
Add Y-pipe, O2 Sims, and O2 Extentions to any Pace setter Header Part Number = $235.99
GM Steel Header Gaskets (pair) = $19.99
ASP 25% Reduction Crank Pulley = $189.99
New Serpentine Belt for Underdrive Pulley = $19.99
Hardtop Tubular Low Clearance Subframe Connectors = $149.95

Total = $990.90 + free shipping from ls1speed.com all parts were found off of ls1speed, except for the serp belt it was off of TSP

ChocoTaco369

i'd get the TSP y-pipe for the headers. the pacesetter one is of questionable quality and has that big dent in it, at least so i've heard.

that should be an easy 40hp though.

brossow

iTrader: (3)

How's the quality and performance of the Pacesetter headers? Back in '98 when I bought my (long since sold) '99 Neon R/T, the Pacesetter header for that car was a notoriously bad piece. That was a few years ago and a different car, but if I could spend a reasonable amount more for something that's of better quality, I don't mind.

As for the UDP, is there a reason to go with just the crank pulley and not the crank/alt set?

The $1000 budget I mentioned is just a target price, not carved in stone. If I go slightly over but end up with much better stuff it wouldn't mean eating ramen for a year.

Thanks again,
Brent

chadtx01

iTrader: (5)

Headers without a doubt. Also from what I've been reading, a converter really wakes up the A4.

I know a Texas member just did headers and a converter for under 1000. Just another idea.

brossow

iTrader: (3)

Who's got the best (and the best deal) on a stainless Y-pipe? My car is driven year-round in Minnesota and I'd like to go stainless despite the added cost.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

I didn't notice you had an A4! LT's + ORY + stall and you'll have a new car.

Kooks makes a NICE stainless y-pipe, but it would need to be modified to fit anything besides their headers, and be fairly pointless too. The Kooks headers/y-pipe would set you back about a grand by themselves.

monicaz28

iTrader: (5)

On an A4, a converter is the single best mod to me. Headers would be good, a decent cam would be great!

brossow

iTrader: (3)

Specifically, what am I going to gain from a converter and, perhaps more importantly, what would I sacrifice (if anything)? A converter sounds like a LOT more work to me than headers, etc. I'm not at all opposed to it -- just want to know what I'd be getting myself into. Right now my facilities are limited until I build a new garage next summer and I'll be working by myself, so I don't want to get in over my head from a physical labor standpoint (the technical doesn't scare me in the least).

monicaz28

iTrader: (5)

That really depends on what size converter you get... just think of it like this. The looser the stall, the higher the launching RPM's you get. So instead of revving it up to 1600 before the tires come loose, you can launch at 3000 or 4000 or whatever you want depending on what converter you decide to go with.

chadtx01

iTrader: (5)

Sorry, I owed you that one

brossow

iTrader: (3)

For a street car, aside from launching from a stoplight, am I going to notice any difference?

How much of a difference in going from 3.23 to 3.42 rear gears would I notice? Worth the hassle? How badly would it cut into MPG?

monicaz28

iTrader: (5)

A converter helps you get into the higher rpm range where you'll be making the power aside from the great launching you'll get. Your gas will only slightly be hurt as long as you get a lock up converter.
As far as changing your gears to 3.42's, definitely NOT worth the trouble. Atleast step up to 3.73's when you get ready for gears.

MidwayAvenue

iTrader: (11)

deffinitly go with a converter..probably one of the best mods for an a4.. imo

brossow

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all the info! Hope no one minds if I keep asking stupid questions.

Here's one: if I get, say, a converter with a 3000 stall, what happens when I want to move slowly out of the driveway or take off normally from a stop sign? The car still moves, right, but the converter is "slipping" until it gets to ~3000 RPM (I know the "actual" RPM is dependent on a number of factors)? I don't understand auto trannies and am not sure I ever want to -- I was looking for an M6 when I came across the deal on the car I ended up with.

brossow

iTrader: (3)

And just how much of a job is it to actually swap the converter? I know I need to drop the tranny. Are all of the necessary bolts and connectors accessible without pulling the engine? Is it feasible to do it with the car supported on jack stands and without a lift? Only two times I've had a tranny out of a car, it was when I was moving the engine and tranny as a unit in my '72 Nova and didn't have to worry about dropping just the tranny.

Thanks again!

monicaz28

iTrader: (5)

A 3000 stall is still pretty tight so slippage really isn't so bad. Yeah, it will move when you hit the gas, it's just not going to feel very tight until you get up to that certain rpm range (which as you said depends on a couple things). BTW, when you hit it at a stop sign or light, it's not really going to be sluggish feeling or anything, it gets up into the rpm's where it needs to be pretty quickly.
Changing out the converter isn't that bad, the tranny is the only thing that will have to come out.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

It's all good in-the-hood.

brossow

iTrader: (3)

Is there a step-by-step somewhere I could be pointed toward to avoid asking stupid questions (RTFM)? Sure appreciate the responses!